dschigoda

As long as you learn to keep your index finger on the clutch lever, and pull in the clutch whenever you think that you are getting into trouble, then no trials bike will ever over power you, or launch you off into something that you don't want to be in.

I also have a GasGas - and I've found that its possible to mis-align the rubber air box boot with the carb inlet, such that the doughnut shaped spacer gets dislodged, and a gap opens up and allow dusty air to get into the carb through this gap. I've seen posts about this online somewhere too.

Is the one in the craigslist ad yours? It looks good, and low hours too. I've been riding the Advanced line for years, and I don't plan on moving up to Expert (ever). The Econ is less expensive, though.

I have heard a little bit about the 2012 GG Econ 250/280 models that are comming to the USA soon. 1) "They are basically 2010 models, but with less decals and Sachs steel forks. They have tubeless rear wheels and tires and a Sachs rear shock." and 2) "They will be like the 2010 Pro with fewer decals. They will have steel fork stanchions (the Pros have aluminum). The rear tire will be tubeless, but the rim will be the same as used back in 2005. The engine will be the 2012 engine, 250 or 280cc." Does anyone have any confirmations or denials of this info? Anything to add? Any tips from the 2010 GG 250/280 owners out there as far as set-up or maintenance? Thanks! Dave

I've ridden my '02 TXT Edition for several years (I bought it used). I've not had any issues with it. I've replaced tires, changed the fluids, cleaned the air filter, and that's about it. Oh, and I put in the jetting that is recommended on the GG USA site, which worked well. The Edition model was refined over several years (the development ceased in 2001). So really all the known bugs were worked out of it. The PRO model was the next generation for GG.

Due to health issues I put my 2002 GG280 Ed in storage one year ago. I am not planning to ride again until Spring 2011. Should I start it up an run it once in a while? Or should I just leave it stored? Or should I turn the engine over with the sparkplug wire disconnedted? When I put it away last summer, I drained the tank and float bowl, changed the tranny oil and the brake fluid, washed it, covered it, etc. Thanks.

+ 1 on Jon's jetting recommendations. I had that same impression after making those jetting changes. (I ride at about 700 ft above sea level.)

It also helps to move your feet back a bit on the pegs, and drop your heels, and keep them down, drop it in 3rd gear, grab a handful of throttle, and let out the clutch. Speed helps, unless there are obstacles in your path that you need to slow down for.

In my M199 Sherpa T 350 I used a Wisco replacement piston. No mods needed. The required bore clearance was larger for the Wisco vs stock, because one is forged and the other is a cast aluminum piston. One expands much more than the other when at operating temperature.

A cylinder will always have more wear in the front, due to the forces and motion of the piston and crankshaft during the "power stroke". In other words, the crank and connecting rod exerts a force to the front of the liner as an outcome of taking the downward pressure from the piston. Dave

Wow, wow, wow! This looks like a great place to ride! Where in Idaho is this? Dave (Wisconsin)

If you are in the U.S., I would recommend Rising Sun Imports.

My one serious trials accident happened a couple of years ago - It was my first practice ride of the year after a long winter break. I was practicing on a friend's property (in Wisconsin, USA), in early spring, the snow had melted and the ground was soft. I rode my practice sections pretty hard for a couple of hours. I was about to ride some of the rockyer practice sections, but I had collected a good amount of mud on my tires. So I thought I would fling some of it off by quickly riding through an open field at a fast pace. About 98% of the tall weed in the field had been flattened down by the previous Winter's five feet of snow, so it appeared to be clear sailing through this field (about the size of a football field). It turned out that there was one rock in this field, about a foot high, hidden by a tuft of weeds that were not flattened by the winter's snow. I was running flat out in 5th (and thinking to myself "Hey this bike really runs great with fresh fuel!" - when I felt the front wheel bang into the triple clamps. I thought "This is not a good sign". The next thing I knew the rear tire flipped up and smacked me in the lower back and spit me over the handlebars. I was airborn for quite a ways, and landed on the "soft" ground on my right arm and shoulder. As I was sliding across the field on my shoulder, I looked back at my bike. It was still cartwheeling, and with each rotation the bike landed on its front wheel, compressed the front forks, rebounded, and did another forward loop. I ended up with a broken arm and a partially torn rotator cuff, and other torn muscles in my shoulder and back. The rotator cuff took about 8 months to heal, with physical therapy. It is not as strong as it was, but I am getting older too. I missed most of the riding season that year.

One other advantage that Gas Gas has over many of the other trials bikes - is that it is made by a much larger company, that sells many more motorcycles throughout the world. Larger and more diversified companies can survive economic downturns better than smaller companies. They can afford higher R & D expenditures. They will likely stay in business for many more years than much smaller manufacturers, thus assisting in the supply of any replacement parts, and accumulated knowledge of the riders and mechanics. Scorpa was so small, it could even afford professional riders/promoters. I believe this hastend its bankruptcy last week.

Also, if the Premium contains 10% ethanol, I get pinking. But most of the pinking goes away when I use the 100% gasoline premium. When I've added 1/3 race gas, the motor seems to loose some of its power, and some of its "snap". I ride a 2002 GG 280 Edition.