tlrider

bashplate, The large triple tree offset on the TL125 appears to exist in order to allow the forks to not hit the fuel tank at full lock. The triple tree from a 1974 XL125 will fit right in, I don't remember but the length of the stem may be longer. That triple tree has very little offset and the forks are wider requiring different wheel spacers, BUT the forks will hit the tank. A couple of options are: 1) not my favorite, alter the shape of the tank to clear the forks similar to a TL250 or TLR tank. Lots of work to make it look good. 2) find a different tank that will work 3)my choice, chop the rake on the frame. Possibly less work than modifying the tank. Read my post in the thread http://www.trialscentral.com/forums/topic/31314-removing-lower-frame-rails-on-tl125/page__view__findpost__p__241840__hl__%2Btl125+%2Bforks

The two piece 'S' model head and the one piece 'K' model head engines have completely different cam chain tensioner setups and are not interchangeable. The pivot bolt in the head is in a different location between the two, the tensioners are different lengths and the adjustement mechanisim is different. I started doing an engine with a 'K' bottom end and an 'S' top end a few years ago, I picked up a TLR250 and set the engine build to the side so what I am about to describe is from not to recent memories. The problem is the longer 'K' tensioner ends up with too much bow in it when atached to the 'S' head. The tensioner puts all of the load on the chain just above the sprocket on the crank shaft rather than somewhere between the two sprockets. When adjusting the tensioner there is so little movement you really get no change in tension. The 'S' tensioner is too short and does not give enough tension. My intent was or is once I get back to the project to thin the 'K' tensioner at the bottom so the contact is somewhere between the sprockets.

Fresh oil corrected the problem. Thanks everyone.

Mark, I concur, very nice work. I too have this Fraser frame under construction albeit on hold since aquiring a TLR250. I am wondering if you would be kind enough to post or send me pictures of your airbox and exhaust details. Your exhaust looks like it maybe a WES. My intention is to run it without the fiberglass which I do have and run jeweled (engine turned) aluminum fenders. Thanks, Scott

It was unseasonably hot this past weekend and I believe I have 5 weight in the forks. An oil change is in order!

Thanks Gents, I was thinking low oil whilst riding it this past weekend. I don't have leaking fork seals so low oil didn't seem right. Would old oil of low viscosity behave similarly?

Gentleman, I have developed a thunk in my TLR 250F forks when they extend. I'm guessing the rebound dampers are on their way out. Does anyone know if the rebound damper is a spring or some time of an elastomeric bumper? Do you know a part number and where I might obtain a set? Cheers!

I think it's a Reflex as well. The lower fork tube does not have the bulges of a real TLR and the exhaust is definitely Reflex. The TLR forks are a larger diameter than the Reflex., I can measure my TLR250 forks and let you know if you would like. I know there are very few true TLR250's and TLR200's in the US. I know of several converted Reflexes.

scot taco, Glad you like the MAVT site and our series. We have a good time, currently we are about 50/50 between vintage and modern bikes. We are getting a lot of the AMA D6 riders from Pennsylvania starting to ride our series for fun and practice. It's still amazing to see a 1 line rider on a 1974 TY250 clean a section that an expert or advanced modern rider gets a 3. The modern riders have difficulty picking the line in a no stop Trial, I know there is a lengthy thread on this elsewhere. On the big bore TL, I have seen someone in England offering kits on ebay with piston rings and cylinders for different displacements. If I remember correctly 150cc and lower does not require boring the cases for a bigger jug, anything over that does. There are several discussions in the Honda forum with specific details. Go to that forum and search for 'big bore' and you should find them.

I know some guys who ride the MAVT series who have modded Reflex's that do very well riding our 1 and 2 lin eon them. Some guys have done little mods, carb, chain & sprocket combos, exhaust. Others have done major mods of foot peg positions, pumper carbs and TLR paint schemes. They can be a competitive bike. Having ridden my TL125 with a 168cc big bore, steepened fork rake and alloy bash plate with removed lower frame I feel the biggest difference to a Reflex is the suspension. Granted the Reflex forks are not great but they are better than a TL and the laid down rear shocks are much better. I also have to say that my riding posture neede to change on the TLR250. if I don't bend my knees the bike does not handle well. The TL is more forgiving to those of us who resist bending our knees. Chuck, Can you post pics of your footpegs? I talked with an old friend in Boulder and maybe in CO this summer. I'll let you know; where can I find dates and locations for your events, maybe we can get together. P.S. I've ridden a TL250 Hiboy and they are really nice!

Thanks for posting the pics. You sent me some when I bought the bike, these are much better. This bike was in such nuce condition I bought the after market tank and seat from Shedworks. They are excellent repros and TLR owners have not realized they are replicas. My riding ability went up immediately, well at least my confidence as I was not worried about dropping the bike and killing the gas tank. I've also put on a Honda RTL front fender painted Flash Red and found a TLR rear fender out of Thailand. The headlight is the only original bodywork on at present. I'd like to get another Rothmans sticker to put on it; I'm fairly certain I've seen them from somewhere in the UK. Sounds like you found some great bikes. How'd you modify your pegs?

I'm the guy you sold it to...that's why I said I wanted to renegotiate! Love the bike, Thanks! Scott

Aww Chuck, you shouldn't have said that! Now I want to renegotiate...just kidding. I've been offered more than 1.5 times what I paid you for it on more than one occasion. I love my TLR250, used to ride a TL125 with a 168cc big bore and steepened rake.The TLR is a different animal altogether. I'm really starting to get used to it. Changed the gearing from stock, don't remember # of teeth to the 9/43 combination which I like better. I just made a pair of footpegs that move back and down an inch without modifying the frame. This Saturday will be the first chance I get to try them. You said there are about 50 that were brought to the US, how confident are you with that number? I happen to know where siz are including yours.

I have not dealt with them but I did install the frame gussets they mention. They go between the down tube from the top rear shock mount and the backbone, you can see it in the frame photo just above the nylon block at the swingarm pivot. I used a piece of steel tube the appropriate diameter and welded it in place, there is one on each side and they add tremendous stability to the frame. I also installed an alloy bash plate and copied their mounting scheme from the photos; making these mounts, particulary the front was much more work but you get a significant amount of additional ground clearance at the front of the motor for rock and log crossing. I have also steepened my fork rake by cutting the frame behind the steering stem and pulling it in, added to the ground clearance and now it steers much like a TY175.

The US TL125 K1 (1974) is Candy Sapphire Blue, according to this US website the color code is 375-01. http://www.ct70paint.com/sapphire-blue.html

When you say 'aftermarket seals are inferior' are you refering to the blue viton seals available on ebay?

Does anyone know how many twinshock TLR250's were made? Mine is serial number ME07-5000731.

I've had stock length NJB shocks on my TL125 K1 for about 8 years and they stiill work fine. I have the model with two springs per shock.

Nicely done Craig. A much bigger job doing it all on a lathe. For the one piece head I've thought about putting in a large ring that will encompass the lobe cut outs and the original journal size. THe hole will be larger than the original journal. I would then make a bronze split ring that matches the cam journal with an appropriate od and flange to mate up to the new ring in the head. Haven't gone much past this thought, no sketches or measurments at this point just a thought. I'll have to register on Thumper Talk and check out the photos. I see the small end being a bigger problem on the one piece head due to the depth/diameter ratio more than the big end, an allusion on my part?

The retainingg bolt that holds the flywheel onto the shaft is right hand; the flywheel spins CCW while looking at it from the left side of the bike which will tighten a right hand thread as it spins. The threaded hole for the removal tool I believe is left hand.

Hi craig10, I believe it is a standard TL head, it has the same combustion chamber as a TL125S head I have. Currently it is at the shop, I'm having a larger exhaust valve from an XL125 fitted and a new TL intake valve fitted as well. THen to the platers to get ceramic coated to keep the heat down. I've read most if not all the info on kailas site, a wealth of info... I'm very interested in your fitting roller bearings. Is this in a one piece head? I have one that needs the journals repaired. My second big bore engine is to go in a Fraser MK2 frame for the TL, the one with the gas tank as the back bone. On that engine I'm putting a TL125S two piece head on a K bottom end; I need to work out the cam chain adjuster mod yet. I have done a basic layout but have stalled on the project. I picked up a TLR250 here in the States last summer and that is getting most of my attention. I'm looking forward to the pics of your cam bearing job. Scooter

craig10, Thanks for pointing out the dished piston, I completely forgot about it. That being said the big bore engine I have been running the last 10 years has a domed piston in it. I was quite surprised to see this when I tore the engine down as all information I had led me to expect a dished piston. The second engine I'm building will have a dished piston, until then I won't be able to comment on performance differences. Thanks for posting the pics, worth a thousand words!

Victor, Honda part numbers, in the USA at least, are a 3 component number, i.e. 24610-355-000. The first number is the part, 24610=spindle gear shift. The second number, 355 is the product code or model of bike. 355=TL125. The third number can be color codes or manufacturer code. THe important number for you is the middle number, the product code. This number tells you what model bike the part first appeared on. You will need to find out what the product code for your bike is, you can try the internet. There is a Honda Identification guide for American Hondas that gives that info for every Honda model sold in the US between 1959-2000 I believe, doesn't help you though, sorry. Point being you need to determine your bike model number and the model the part originated on. This part may not be exclusive to the RTL which would be in your favor. I hope this helps.

sherpagorri, That kit looks like what I described using the ATC200x parts, nice thing is you will get all new parts in the kit. They state prior to year ?, I can't recall but your TL is prior, that boring of cases is required. Having said that I surmise shortening the cylinder to match the 125cc stroke would be necessary as well. I'm not positive about that but it is something you should consider along with the valve pocket in the top of the piston may need to be recut. Food for thought...

Barfy, Did your message not save properly?