I find with the screw further in the bike responds quicker and sharper to the throttle wheras when it is set furthur out maybe 4 turns there is a slight splutter on pickup (as its running a bit richer) this helps in muddy conditions. Its what ever you feel most comfortable with.
I have done some UK enduros about 8 years ago, they can bee a good day out and if you choose the easiest level clubman B you end up with about 2 laps of 20 miles in a forest at a reasonable speed (can be really hard work if its boggy!!!)
But, no entry on the day, expensive entry fee, you use loads of petrol, and its normally an early start and a late finnish!!
I always saw about 20mm off each end of my bars, mainly to stop me stretching too much when riding. I did hear somewhere that if you get in a push up position with your elbowws at 90 degrees then measure where your hands are this should be your optimum bar width??????????????/
I have made bar ends that have a 10 mm dia by 2mm shoulder so that you only cut a 10mm hole in the end of the grip so it is clamped over the end of the bars. This means it never moves and never gets water and mud in it when you fall off.
Just to bring things down to earth, I had an 02 SY250 and I just couldnt get on with it the rear suspension was either too bouncy or too choppy (I often wonder if the shock was faulty) the clutch was quite sharp and hard to control, the big jump into 6th gear was anoying over the moors (I know you dont loose any marks but is all part of your day out).
You also will have lots of fun welding up the clutch casing of that wide engine every so often (
I had a 1979 247 with air forks, I seem to remember they had springs in them but they were very soft and you had to pump in a small amount of air to get them to the correct stiffness for your wieght 10 to 20 psi I think!!
Madness
in Gas Gas
Posted
Seen this a used pro gear lever bid up to