twinkletoes

as above anybody know 2016 dates for the above 2 trials Thanks

need some new kit 36/38" waist in jeans etc but have decent sized thighs from weights/rugby/cycling. thinking some jitsie or MOTs kit but unsure which is most generous - trials gear seems like cyclists gear - designed for malnourished whippets usually just use mx pants but a bit heavy when wet and fall down without the braces - rock on tommy any ideas on other makes? thanks

red hubs another tell tale sign its a painted black TR35

its a TR35. it should be red and white they had the alloy swing arm and usd forks - dont think the Supertrial had the alloy swing arm and it had gold coloured usd forks. the tr35 was the last a/c before the w/c zero. they then continued the Supertrial as a 'budget' bike and ran it alongside the early w/c bikes of the time

Thanks fellas Last EVO and REV3 had no issues Sounds like I need to get the old PTFE out Presume you know the abbreviation means - Plumbers Tape For Everything! Cheers

Anyone else experienced an occasional clunk of the headset and sorted it.. bearings smooth, top nut tight, clamp tight..? clunk occurs when putting front end down to earth, not every time, certain its from the headset not the forks. few clues before I strip it out may help Cheers

did you find out where the pedals fit yet? maybe one of these lads will know.

As title suggests my 2014 is occasionally prone to flooding, hard to tell when, sometimes when flat out over the fell over larger jumps/bumps, sometimes when sat, sometimes in the van, sometimes when the sky is too blue, sometimes when the wind blows from a certain direction..you get the idea. Usually clears, sometimes needs a tap with a rock on the bowl...mainly I just try to turn fuel off..just in case. Made mistake of leaving fuel on...after sitting it onto paddock stand last week.. removed plug, pumped it through..can I start - it can I hell. It was not 'hydraulic-ed' Cleaned float bowl, few small lumps of 'varnish'. Is getting a strong spark. Plugs seem to be getting only very slightly wet. Next step clean out all the jets in top of carb as perhaps not getting enough fuel through. It has not even hinted at starting in all of this and a few hundred kicks. My question is - is the float setting procedure same as on the rev3s in 2008 that came with Keihins? Anybody else had bother with recent Evos carbs? - my 07 rev3, and first evo were both spot on from new, unlike most others it seemed. any help appreciated Cheers

Any experience with the S3 (wide type) and Jitse rim tapes ie easy of fitment, durability? Regards

Anybody enlighten me as to the correct volume of oil per leg and weight of oil for 2010 250 evo? Thanks

Afternoon folks Anybody repaired the fan motor on an evo/rev3 ...or even techno I think. Or any trials bike come to that - mine is making a dry rumble when running and I suspect the bearings are goosed (good old pressure washer!) A new one is not exactly cheap as they only list the full motor/impeller and cowling as one part - all I think I need is a motor or better still to strip it down and swap some bearings in from a local factors. Just wondered if anyone has done it before, prior to me getting it started and having it in bits only to find the bearings don't remove etc cheers

I owned a couple, it may have just been me but the subframes are prone to snapping where they bolt into the main frame, give it a wobble about see it aint too loose ie broken. They are a pain to weld and can break again. Generally pretty sound solid and still serviceable. try and listen past the enevitable ancilliary rattles (levers foot rests etc) and try to listen for any rumbles from the bottom end and rattles from the top. There will be play in various bearings but I wouldnt worry about any of them too much, wheel bearings etc are cheap enough, suspension bearing kits a different matter but then again is it worth refreshing the full linkage on a 500 quid play bike - perhaps not. Any used off road bike of any age is a gamble as you will know but 550 on one of these is as safe as any I would say... Just remember there are loads of easy jobs that you can undertake when your tinkering time is free but you can soon be into a few hundred quid if you start thinking chain, sprockets, tyres pads, cable, hose ,...I guess what I am saying is check its been mechanically maintained and forget about the cosmetics. You dont want to buy it to immediatley throw money at it. Good luck hope it is a good 'un

if its the standard sprocket (supersprox?) check for fractures around the bolt holes on the sprocket. they are a poor design - each bolt hole is at 'point' in the sproket, mine fractured in 3 places. my advice would be swap it for a talon radialite, they are a different design, traditional, ie just a circle of metal is removed from the centre to allow it to sit onto the hub, much stronger.

Well of course it was the stator in the end. Why would I think any different after my rev3 stator failed at 18mths, my mates went on his rev3 the next week then again 6 months later! I did have some faith that the age old problem had been ironed out for the EVO, but alas no, seems they continue to fit the junk at the factory and replace under warranty until a year then charge you plenty when out of warranty. This bike is 20 months old, so no warranty or goodwill discount.

cheers for the responses to so far....but i am certain its not the kill switch as i always use a 'proper' yam style one and bin the junk they come with. i know all about the rev3 stator issues, been through that before! was really holding out faith that the stator issues had been well and truly put to bed on the evo, but we shall see as i have a new one, and cdi, on the way. wouldnt mind but i always ease back the flywheel cover and let the water drain out and dry out. was hoping folks would speak up and say 'yes i had to fit new one on my evo' or 'no the problem is generally not as prevalent as it was on the rev3'. at least this time it didnt cost me a DNF at sundays trial. i'll post back when its sorted! one things certain, i could do without a 175

spluttered to a stop mid trial sunday. the bike, not me. checked fuel plug cap etc. scratched head, gave it a few more kicks and hey presto we're away. felt like the stator failing as on the rev3's! ran fine rest of the trial, thought nothing more of it.come to think of it, she took a good few more kicks than usual to start but i put it down to being very cold. 2010 250 evo i should say, not that it'll make much difference. left it a day then washed her off today, started up no worries for a warm through and quickly spluttered and died, never to restart. there is no spark with a selection of plugs fitted, including a new one. there seems to be no visual problem with the cdi connection. no kill switch short due to water loose connection etc the coil earth is fine and the wire undamaged (they sometimes rub the downspar) i am about to go through the replace cdi/stator route elimination.dont think its the stator as usually its a terminal fail with them. please speak up if you've had similar electrical issues with your evo and how you've sorted it. is the cdi dead? lampkins always look after me but if its another stator after the rev3 scenario a few yrs back then i'll be pretty annoyed. thanks

as above - decent ball-ended hex key, use a ring spanner on its short end for leverage. the pipe is slotted on the outside of the left hole so the left stud can be left in if required. slightly fiddly but easy enough once you've done it a time or two.

Plumbers Tape For Everything might have guessed. I ll try that. If not its a new one,cant see why the old one would sstart to leak after this time mind you. only traced the leak back after thinkig i had oil on the garage for, turned out to be 2t oil with fuel evapourated off! what will be next months stupid little issue i wonder.... thanks

Hi guys as the title suggests the fuel tap has a leak on my 2010 evo. a slow drip. it cannot be tightened up anymore without the on/off/res tap turning behind the cdi box. the frame is regular threaded and the petcock left threaded to bring them together and create the seal. it could do with some sort of fibre washer in there perhaps, between the bottom of the plastic fuel pipe that enters the tank and the tank threads itself. anybody else sorted a one of these before and how? i cant see a new one fixing it cheers

basically you are never going to seal it up properly, its is nigh on impossible, just let the water in and let it back out, loosen off the cover after washing, pump the wd40 in as the man says and let it dry off. tighen up next time and away you go.....

its the 250 2t i have it was the exit end of the perforated tube that runs through centre of the silencer. basically it sits into a larger tube at each end and is tac welded in place. but as it is perforated the welds on that end were basically non existent, very poorly attached. i think when the removable last short piece of pipe is inserted it knocks the tac welds off.for the sake of 3 or 4 more decent tac welds it would never come away. quite a simple fix really - stuck a chamfered bar into the pipe and brayed it a few times to widen the pipe outwards into the tube in which it sits. doesnt rattle/move now, so expecting when my new o-rings arrive and i get it back on it will be sorted. if it rattles again i will get it re welded, it will be awkward, although not impossible and will not need the box cut open and welded back up which would be do-able but not a 10 minute job. a new one is 183

thanks for all the responses. seems there is something rattling around inside the silencer itself.....which I cannot get to without cutting it open, typical! least i know what it is now......

as the title suggests my 2010 evo has a metallic vibration just above idle. very loud, sounds like exhaust vibrationg on shock/frame/ something! have stripped off various parts to investigate with no joy. only one very minor rub mark on silencer that i dont think is causing it. it is not any ancilliary such as kickstart or gear lever - i am stumped. subrame arms are tight, airbox is tight, check pretty much everything i can think of. i am awaiting some new o-rings incase there is play between front pipe and silencer and am also going to exhaust sealant it just incaase but i doubt this is it. Any ideas?

thanks for the heads up.... typical, i had just booked in there last week, thinking i'd done well as i had just got a room cancelled that day. needless to say it was the last place i called before giving up thinking everywhere reasonably local was full! looks like it'll be back of the van for me or a drive home. good luck!

i did this, sometime ago. seem to remember bought it from sandifords, but have a feeling it was a part out of the silencer from a crf450? anyway it was cut down to length packing material replaced with new and i think i made a difference, sharpened it up somewhat. dont expect it to make the world of difference however, like alot of these things such as mapping switches etc - mind games! as for the reasoning - less restriction of exhausted gasses would usually allow greater power/increased throttle response if no actual power gain i would guess. cheap simple mod and bike will probably benefit from the repacked silencer anyway, give it a go.