twinkletoes

check the little L bracket that secures the mid box of the exhaust to the frame. to be fair it could be originating anywhere you'll only ever feel it through pegs and bars...! after that the cylinder head secruing bracket.good luck.

no, easy job. anyone with small amount of technical knowledge can do it (i think). a good trials dealer will supply all the parts (casing, seals, o rings). should take an hour or 2 at most. worst part is fitting the sump guard/bashplate back on as they tend to be bent and therefore 'sprung'. download an exploded diagram of the engine from beta uk website, study it before starting the job. very basically- drain all oil, then refit drain plug. remove bash plate drain any remaining water. remove front section of exhaust remove water pump cover but leave attached to pipes if they have a good seal already. remove gear lever and kick-start remove clutch inspection cover from casing. remove casing fit new seals to new casing transfer impeller shaft and bearings to new casing (put old and new casings side by side,get seals and bearings correct way around) refit new casing and gasket,locate gasket carefully refit water pump o ring (p shaped) and inspection cover and new large o ring refit sump refit exhaust. check for left over bits!! fill with coolant fill with oil refit sump (car jack or clamps will help) test..... good luck, sounds more complex than it is. be sure to use the diagram for correct placing of casing bolts you remove.

cheers guys, to further, all the grounds were tight free from corrosion and the lighting kit is still in situ from new (its only done about 4/5 trials). thanks

my mates virtually unused Sherco 290 2009 has started to give electric shocks via touching the brake lever when revving up. higher revs, bigger shock. quick check over mid trial showed no loose earth's or loose block/bullet connections. everything appears visually OK. His gloves were very wet. What next to diagnose the problem, apart from the call to MRS, obviously? Anyone else had similar problems? got him to ride slower and smoother that's for sure, but its rather a drastic way of coaching .......

hi all Went to get my spare rev3 gear lever the other night and remembered that I lent it to some young pup at on a 125 rev3 on the Sunday of the bob MacGregor so he could get finished. I then forgot all about it and went home! thought I would try here in case you can post it back to me before I shell out on another. If you are that lad or dad please post up your mobile number and i will text you my address. No rush, I've straightened the original, don't worry if it is now well used, its just as a spare. Cheers

msm insurance (do a policy that includes use in competition). you ll find them online. they should insure you on a frame number too for a limited time so you can get it reg'd/taxed then get the reg number to them.

going to remove all factory lighting horn etc and fit 'yam style' kill button to 07 rev3. which colour block connectors go into which so that the fan remains powered, and into which wires does the kill switch need joined. also thinking of giving it a top end service, just to confirm, it is possible to remove the head and barrel with the motor still in the bike? looks s little tight thats all. cheers

hi there coming upto killin for the 2day this weekend, anybody familiar with the area know of a campsite where we can pay for showers closeby?otherwise it'll be pretty grim in our tent saturday night as we are rough camping in the start field. I mean we'll survive just fine but it'll be nice to be fresh when we go for a few pints of red T. On that note which pubs are the busiest/best/likely to have live music on - its a while since I ve been upto killin and can't remember much about where we went last time.. cheers

what does this mod consist of? new frame and arm? strengthening of original frame? presuming lampkins did them under warranty? what was the actual fault originally? how can i tell if a used evo has had it done? did all 09's need it done or did they sort it during 09 production. answers appreciated, thanks

sure loads of you have done this before so just a quick question or 2... been advised to take lower yoke and shaft (with old shot bearing still on) to an engineer with a press. is the shaft a press fit into the yoke? also been reliably advised that the lower clamp and shaft 'come as one' (ie when you need to buy another if you decide to brutalise the old bearing off and break the shaft) visually the shaft would appear a press fit. how has anybody on here removed/replaced the old bearing? the engineering co. i will probably use have suggested cutting the old bearing off and pressing on the new one down the steering shaft, leaving the shaft in the yoke. sure this would work but is there a 'correct'/easier way of doing it? also how did you manage to fit the corresponding bearing seat up into the underside of the headstock without damaginging either part? cheers

what you are suggesting is a major bad head, you will ruin the back of the car lifting it in and out, not to mention the leaks as you mention.a trials bike isnt heavy but its not so easy to man handle with the wheels out,which would be the absolute minimum to get it in the car. i'd say shop around for a towbar fittter (500 seems steep), then get a bike rack for it. or, as has been suggested, get along to a local club, meet a few folk and i bet a lift will be forthcoming for your first few events. as for a trainer - get on youtube (monkey see monkey do) and get practising, make your own mistakes first - but overall time on the bike is what you need most at the outset. you will learn loads from others at trials. good luck

funtrials?? what bodyfat % should i be? the two don't stack up... as long as you're not too fat you cant grip enough to hold you on and the bike isnt squashed flat i dont think it matters. Seriously though, if you are bothered about fitness for trialling think about muscle endurance, core stability/strength, flexibility and general aerobic fitness. Easily acheived with balanced diet some basic gym work and something such as mountain biking or running a few miles a week. i would be very surpirsed if even the very top lads new their %bodyfat, but they will all have a balanced diet and a fitness programme based on the aforementioned factors. like bmi, %bodyfat is a very poor fitness indicator - i stand by this as a rugby player. i have to...... ps.i hope theres a burger van there on sunday.......

need to change the footrests on my rev3 as they are battered and bent, not to mention starting to go rusty. i have big (12's) feet and am fairly heavy so want something wider than standard.before /everybody? says Raptor titanium, i am a thinking they seem a bit too dear, although obviously i can swap them to next bike to spread the lifespan and offset the cost. Just wondering what alternatives anybody may have tried hebo? s3? s3 hardrock? those aluinmium ones from japan on ebay? trialcast? not bothered about andonised colours/super lightweight etc just want some wide, anti clog, durable, well engineered footrests at a reasonable cost. Any ideas/comments guys? thanks

thank you

are they listed anywhere? cant find them online, and our mail has been unreliable of late round here. just wanting to see where i'm riding and at what times. If they arent published beforehand and its just me getting giddy then fair enough i'll wait til friday pm. Thanks

anybody got the dougie tree swinging crash from nord vue on video and kind enough to upload it to youtube and post a link.. would love to see it again and replay what actually happened, couldnt believe what i was seeing. thanks

don tknow what aftermarket ones are available but i d fit an original and fit the straight through internal pipe. sandifords sell them, i think it is a from a crf450 and you cut it to length. made a noticeable power difference i thought, especially if you de coke the rest of the system. check the bush set up where it is attached and renew with the correct washers - there will be play but enough so that when the tyre touches it moves and shouldnt wear through over time

yes there was coolant in beforehand and i dont know whether its been checked since. i meant the the mag case breathers, the right side one i think. the speed at which it heated would make me think it was a circulation problem (or no coolant at all, which is easily checked obviously). do the water pumps pack up on these things at this age - how are they driven? the fan, coolant etc checks will be straight forward.maybe we will see the remaining oil is water contaminated, in which case which seal (waterpump?) is likely to have failed? thanks

my pals 07 rev 3 250 overheated yesterday under strange circumstances. any help on the causes will be appreciated. a small amount of white emulsion - ie spoonfull came out of one of the crankcase breathers. thought nothing of it as it has sat for a long time and presumed it would be a little condesated water and oil. soon after it started to knock in fuel starved type way. rad was not blocked, fan was working (that we can remember) and it should have never have got hot enough to overheat in that time. the outside of the cylinder has very slighty disclooured and it has got very hot in about 1 mile of unavoidable riding. it has not seized. it has not been stripped down yet to investigate. i think the water pupm may have stopped as even wth no fan on a cool day ridng on open fell with a clean rad it should have not got this hot. not yet checked to see if coolant has been lost into the oil. ideas or similar experiences anybody?

thank you. i ll complete an envelope next time!!

hi all do bassenthwaite dmc have a website displaying results or do they upload them onto here as i didnt address an envelope at the the dk lang trial last sunday and would like to see how badly i did. or maybe i am just being impatient and they are on thier way to being put on here. or if somebody has a paper copy they could scan and post them up? thanks

oh dear. i'd say get a new stator sent and try it if you ve tried all the more obvious stuff already, which it would seem you have. it will almost certainly solve the problem. i had the same problem after the bike had ran for a similar amount of time. there was very little (basically no) moisture in the flywheel case but the stator had died. lampkins were very helpful as you would expect. you will need a flywheel puller (