twinkletoes

this is might seem too obvious but keep a close eye on the famous auction site, for the next few months as the bike changes hands and they become bored of it. dont however search what we all know the bike is - search trail/field/fun pit bikes and perhaps yamaha as opposed to scorpa. chances are if other garages were done the same night then it is more a random 'oh look we've found 2 off road bikes' as opposed to a 'we will hit the guy with the scorpa trials and yamaha trail bikes' get looking for it yourself, illegal riding of these bikes gets up peoples noses and they are often keen to pass on info as to where things are being ridden. ....oh and if you see somebody on it up the local quarry rag them off it and take it back as in my experience a trials bike that has never been reg'd with the dvla is very hard for the police to prove as stolen unless red-handed as even a bona-fide sale would sometimes be in cash with no papers***personal opinion, in reality these are not nice people so be careful**** good luck, these stories make me sick

good luck with this one.. my friend has a bearing shop and we must have trawled through my bodyweight in o-rings trying to get a match off the shelf, and didn't. also bare in mind they need to be heat resistant which most o-rings are not. if you cannot wait then get some off the exhaust shelf sealant in there from a motor factors, but you'll have it to clean out when you get the correct o-rings. simple solution- ring lampkins, they only cost a few quid and will be with you the next day usually. edit doh....just realised where you are!!

no, and theres probably no place to drill the hole, if you wanted to do that. just make sure the tyre is well seated and the tube isnt nipped and you will be fine. in theory you may loose some grip, in practice i doubt you'll notice unless you are very good and particularly well tuned to the bike/conditions.

no you will very very rarely (never) see anyone at a trial in enduro/ moto x boots. too smooth, too rigid in the ankle and sole. you may sometimes see the odd pair of saftey wellies, or walking boots. these would be a better alternative i think. you need grip to walk the sections, dab the floor and feel the footrests. lets be honest, you can either ride the bike or you can't but this type of boot is very ill-suited to trials, so it certainly wont help in my opinion.

wouldnt worry about it too much unless you are going off big stuff and you are particularly heavy. i am over 17st and the standard spring has been ok so far,just wound the ring adjusters up a good few turns. you can get a stiffer spring from saunders extreme sports though. they do sit quite low as standard but remeber its a linkage set up as opposed to the rev3 etc.. enjoy!

bearings will be shot. replace them or at worst free them and grease them up, but chances are the water has got to them. happened on my 2010 and it had done nowt, and on my rev3 - few blasts of powerwasher and the water is into them - it sits ontop of the bottom bearing and penetartes over time. Drop the forks out and i bet when you turn the bars it will be clicky/clunky. the bottom one is pressed onto the yoke spindle and you will nedd to VERY carefully cut it off or get it pressed off. can be a pain. use the old bearing cups to knock the new bearing cups into the frame, and the bearing onto the shaft. oh and really thoroughly press grease into the new bearing rollers before fitting and they will last longer than the originals. and buy the best bearings you can as the the headseat is harder to change than others on the bike. i am 100% certain this will sort the problem good luck

i had a couple of technos a long time back then a 2007 rev3 for 3 yrs, so i can add a few comments although these are just opinion, and subject to my poor memory. the technos were a bit of a beast in terms of power delivery, especially the first yellow one i had. i remember people softening them off with extra gaskets etc. the rev bikes are much softer and forgiving yet with a simliar power overall. more useable perhaps. you may struggle to find parts etc for technos now and if you are just starting out and breaking a few bits then this maybe an issue, whereas rev parts are all still current, in the main. alot of are intercahngeable from the period however and some bits, bearings sprockets etc etc are the same even now. the less complex rear suspension on the rev is likely to need less mainatinence/repair than on a older techno. the subframes always seemed to be snapping on my techno, although that may have been my youthful enthusiasm, but they werenet a great design. basically as a starter bike, either would be fine, but again, buy on condition. the rev should last you longer as you improve by nature of it being newer and more current; that said if you have a talent for the sport either will get you up and away fine and cope with most club trials easily. remember the techno is wider and heavier and carries its weight a bit more up top in the frame. a good rev at around 1250-1500 should last a very long time if maintained well i reckon, great beginners and clubmans bike. hope this helps a little but most of the above can be said of any brand of bike across the techno-rev3 timescale. if you know someone with a decent knowledge of off road bikes then take them with you. the same old buying rules apply. remember you can soon spend a few hundred qud on basic stuff putting a cheaper bike right. generally a bike that is being used in trials should be mechanically good, beware the slack chained,leaky forked, spongy braked, worn sproketed worn tyred bike that is that few hundred quid cheaper! good luck, enjoy.

check the welds where the rim has been joined, some 2010's were badly welded then smoothed, and caused poor seating of the tyre. that said in my case this caused more of a rim tape issue (whole other problem). if its very poorly welded perhaps lampkins can help you with a new rim like they did me? worth calling them.

kenichi kuroyama (sorry for the spelling!) on at scorpa 4t? think he won the last/latest round of the japanese national championship. If it was a light blue bike, wheels frame and fork legs, i think i saw it too somewhere, perhaps on another website, dare i say it!

send for a new stator on the basis that you will send it back if is not the problem. but as many beta rev3 owners will tell you, it is almost certainly the stator. and they cannot really be re wound repaired etc. dont even bother trying anything else until you have ruled out the stator. it is an easy repair, you will need a fly wheel puller for it too. i know unlucky lads who have had more than one fail on thier bikes. good luck.

exactly phil, good point. i forgot mention that. what i did was cut the valve out of the wrecked rim tape, a circular hole wide enough for the lock nut to sit in, then leave the rim tape on to stop the nipples puncturing the tube.

This is a real issue on these bikes,and other makes, but seems worse on the evo's. Hence the 2011 bike has a 'DID' style rim (made by morad who make the 2010 rims) i have had the problem and eventually got it partially fixed. The nipple heads are too big for the rim tape to sit properly< and the edge of the tape is a real pain to fit correctly into the groove in the rim. Also have a look where the rim is welded together then ground off flat-some are very poor and mean the tape sits even more badly. There are loads of threads on here about how to 'seal' up the rim tape when you fit it.in theory it should not need sealed, but - Some use just water, some mtb tyre slime, others dry and some seal the spokes with silicone then seal the edges of the tape with a flexible bodypanel pu adhesive such as sikaflex or tigerseal (available at panel factors anywhere). Be aware the pu adhesive is a real pain to get off when dry, much worse than silicone. Some folk grind the nipples heads down a bit then seal up the rim tape. Essentailly this is just a sh!t design for a tubeless rim. To get out for the weekend just fire a tube in it. Unless you are world class level you will not notice the way it affects the bike. This will get you away. Long term i had john lampkin fit a new rim as mine was particulary wonky at the welds. He then fitted a new rim tape using pu adhesive ( there is an art to this in itself!!). He did this FOC as the bike was relatively new and i am a long standing customer, however i am sure they will sort you out somehow. That said the wheel is now bent as it wasnt trued up and i cant true it as the sealed tape covers the nipples!! It holds air ok now, not well but passable, ie loses couple of lbs over a week at highish pressure. Bear in mind they hold better at higher pressure as the air holds the tape down on the nipples better - lower pressure ie trials conditions and the leaks are bigger!! you will be very lucky if you ever get a the rim tape sealed 100%! I messed about with wheels in bathtubs and slowly watched air escape the nipples for ages but the worst is when you set off to section 1 and when you get there the 4lb has completely vanished, day ruined. For the meantime just tube it then see if you can find an expert in fitting rim tapes to seal it up for you. I am considering trying to source a 2011 rim and spoke set to build up a new wheel off my hub, but with the centre adjusting spokes and different rim style this will be very pricey. good luck, stay patient, it is a ridiculous problem to have, i had 1990's betas with the DID style rims twenty years ago when tubeless was coming about - why oh why have they gone backwards in design? well to answer my own question cost i guess. get that tube in and make the most of the sunshine whilst its here.

Morning all, My brother has just been on from meribel village, french alps where (sorry if you are about to go skiing but) the snow has pretty much packed up and gone home for the season. There are a few locals on trials bikes excited by this and therefore out playing on the runs/rocks/general amazing terrain. Have always fancied a van or camper holiday this time of year down there, combine some skiing high up, some downhill mtb and take the trials bike too. In the absence of any organised events there this time of year (usually stil snow covered) i just wondered if any ex-pats out there knew the laws on doing such a thing - ie going up the tops/forests/trails etc for leisure. There are resorts where the landscape in summer /spring is virtually completely wrecked due to skiing anyway (i'm thinking val thorens/tignes, v high up).i recently watched Jarvis online playing about on his berg around some skilifts (italy i think). I have often seen trials bikes late season as the thaw starts in resorts, and always fancied having mine there for a play. i am aware of various 2/3/4 dayers in other areas of france, its the very mountainous resort riding i fancy. any trials in resorts in summer/spring - i know andorra is a possibility but its getting a bit of a trek going that far south anyone done such a jaunt or live out there can pass comment? cheers

cheers for reply guys.as i sort of thought, not on this year. done the Bob Macgregor a few times, in fact every time its been run bar one yr I think. Apparently this year though I am expected to be at my daughters christening that weekend! just like last year when I had to miss the IOM for her being born! Re, the Bob Macgregor I can confirm it is fantastically run and a cracking weekend all round. I would say however (in my opinion) that it is not a twinshock or pre 65 trial really unless you are very fit and very good on it! Decent lap each day with some moderate to biggish stuff dependant upon course. If you are reading this thinking of going, just go! Anyway might nip up to fintry being that we are just over the border. ta

as the title suggests, looking for info on the mull 2 day trial if there is one this year. thought lmcc organised it but cant see anything about it on their site. i have done most of the scottish 2 day trials bar this one and thinking about a trip up with a few lads who are relative beginners/ not vastly experienced so from what i hear ths should be about bang on with it being a one route clubman do. any info appreicated cheers

as above ...bash plate needs to come off. try lifting bike on a car jack under the bash guard to get it back on...worked for me. get some tea and patience ready too, they can be a real pain!

Hi there the middle set of threads for the rear mudguard bolts on my 2010 evo are shot (the ones that go into the frame in the 'seat' area), due to them being rubbish from day 1. I am working on them currently being a 5mm thread at present.(I think the 2011 evo has 6mm threads?) I want to tap them out and fit fresh bolts in, but have never tapped before. Am i right to presume i need to drill the hole out to say 6mm so it is therefore unthreaded, then cut fresh threads with a tap to suit a 6mm opening, say a 7mm tap, then fit 7mm bolts. I happen to have a new 6mm tap to hand which needs a 5mm hole, but once the threads are drilled out maybe a larger tap is needed? Or should i just use a 5mm tap in the poor threads as they exist and hope this cleans them up suficiently? Any advice from anyone who has done this ( there must be a few out there) or someone who knows a little more about it than me would be appreciated. Cheers

SXS website saying out of stock. Anyone know which trials dealers are stocking the jitse rim tapes/decals i read about on here recently? straight forward enough to apply? any other brands/suppliers to recomend out there? Cheers

As a temporary fix till I can obtain a new wheel i am thinking of putting a tube into the rear wheel.This is because i am fed up of try trying to get it to hold air with a new rim tape/sikaflex/pair of grannys old tights/wax from an otters fur/etc etc etc Will use an old rim tape with the valve cut out to protect it from the spoke heads and to act as a gripper for the tube. What does anybody reckon - will this work to get me through a few trials? apart from nipping the tube what should i look out for? Thanks

Any top tips for an easy fit and keeping them stuck in place? Usually fit them warm to dry bars with some type of grip glue them wire tie them. Usually they work slightly loose after a while, perhaps i am just wringing them too hard as i try to stay on. Just wondering what methods others out there have had sucess with.This particular pair i am about to fit are pro-grips. cheers

well i ve just taken the tyre off and guess what - there is sikaflex and plumbers silicone in there!! (the bike is very recently new to me)spoke heads have been siliconed over/around and then the rim tape fitted with sikaflex around the edges.and it still leaked. worryingly someone has scracthed an X indicating where the rim has been joint welded - badly - there is a noticeable flat spot 1cm long on each side. aside from being a rubbish design, it seems this rim is badly made too.and the spoke heads are way too big for thier countersinks. Anybody else had sealing problems on a duff welded rim or are they all a bit ropey? gonna try a major clean up, re sikaflex over the spoke heads/full channel smoothly, let it set, fit a new rim tape using tyre soap then see where that gets me.more frustrated probably! .........i mean i love tinkering as much as the next man but this is a major pain in the A.

sorry this has been done to death a bit, however i am about to either sikaflex the rim tape edges on my evo rim or try a re fit of the tape.it will hold air reasonably well when not being ridden, however once set at trial pressures and ridden it flattens in no time at all.this is what leads me to think it is the tape.however when submerged in the bath i cant see any bubbles from the spoke nipples.annoying and confusing. anyone got a link to rypusa tech articles on how to refit the tape as it is supposed to fitted? or shall i just clean it up with thinners then goo it up with sikaflex (which number/type?).is tiger seal the same stuff? cant wait til i can get a DID style rim and a set of spokes!!! i ve read the various threads on here but cannot decide which way to attack it. any advice from folks who have sorted this situation much appreciated. cheers

Corrosion very likely on an 05, I know personally of at least x2 07's and x1 05 that have suffered from it. 08 production onward is OK, apparently. Check out that casing, easily done and replaced, and not too expensive compared to the DNF and possible resultant failure and overheat damage. They all have their foibles, check it over then get it chucked at some rock!

80ml oil to 5000ml petrol, whatever that is. wouldnt like to guess the value, so so varaible at that age, anything from 1000 rough to 1500 very tidy i'd say check the inside of your water pump case for corrosion asap, see the millions of threads on here about it. try to confrim if its had a new stator, but even thats no guarantee the replacement wont fail. check the carb air pressure breather on the exhaust side is not melted 'closed' (slide some electricains heat sheilding over it) tip - dont sit facing down hill on it with the fuel on without the engine running. after that nowt specific to watch out for in my experience enjoy

From experience