grib

They came with mine, I was planning to make something similar so was pleasantly surprised when it arrived with them.

This is what the fixings are like:

Yes; I will take a picture of mine and post it.

I use a Sealey WC06 wheel chock with the bike facing forwards and tie downs from the handlebars to anchor poits in the van. None of the pictures of the WC06 on sites that sell it show that it comes with two plates that screw to the van floor so it will slot in & out, even the Sealey wesite doesn't show them.

I have got an Italian handbook for a 307 and the timing is 3mm btdc for that too. There will be timing marks that you can check with a strobe on the flyweel just to make sure.

I was surprised it was quite that high, I would have guessed at eighty something but it says 91 in the user manual.

91Kg

My vote is for slow, classic or modern bike.

You will probably struggle to get the seal out with the fork stantion in place. Bear in mind that if you damage the chrome while trying to remove the seal it will cost £156 and about 7 weeks lead time to fix it. Stripping the forks means you can flush out all of the accumulated gunge anyway.

Is the sleeve perfectly smooth where the seal contacts it? I don't think starting it with a split intake hose would damage the seal. You may have to split the cases to check the gasket is sealing. Going back to your original question; I found a 300 user manual the other day, its in Italian but (using Google translate)the carb spec is: Main jet 108 Pilot jet 45 Choke jet 70 Needle X5 (clip in 2nd groove) Needle jet BN264 Slide 45 now here's the odd bit; Air screw 1 turn out ( but the diagram in the manual shows a carb with a fuel pilot screw not an air pilot screw) If you do actually have an air screw and not a fuel screw then 2 1/4 turns will be way out. I have attached the manual because there is other useful stuff in it:

Probably worth checking the reed valve first.

I would just replace the seal and the two O rings on the clutch side of the crank if I were you. You can do it with the engine in the frame.

A 201 sould say FM350 on it

That would be great; is there any chance you could scan the book?

Does anyone have any information on a Fantic 201? Ideally a parts list and handbook, but failing that details of the primary drive ratio and gearbox ratios?

I have got a parts list for a 96 Section showing exploded views of the whole bike if thats any use.

I have emptied my inbox if you want to try again.

The friction plate with no tabs goes on first. If you PM me your e-mail I can send you a 240 parts list showing exploded views of the whole bike.

Bill Pye told me to use Ford rosso red when I was re-painting my 301.

Thats the way I do it - It's the only way it will come if you don't want to remove the head.

The stepped steel one goes in the LH side of the hub narrow end first (there sould be an oil seal that it fits in to). The long alloy one goes outside the steel one and the short alloy one goes outside the brake plate. If you PM me your e-mail I can send you the parts list which shows exploded views of the whole bike.

No problem, just wanted to check I was giving you the spec for the same carb. Best of luck sorting it out.

Think it should it be a PHBH on a 300 rather than a PHBL?

There doesn't seem to be a great deal of information around for 300s. I had a 301 which is the model after the 300 and still a piston port 250 ( and I think may have the same top end as a late 300) and the standard carb settings from my black book (its actually blue but....) are: Main - 102 Pilot - 45 Choke - 70 Needle - X5 (clip in 2nd groove from top - seem to remember it had to be in the 3rd groove to stop it pinking when opening the throttle, but it was a bit sh4gged) Needle jet/emulsion tube - BN264 Needle valve - 200 Slide - 45 Pilot screw 2 1/4 turns out (as a starting point) Float height 23.5 - 24.5 If you ring Bill Pye (01642 722378) he will tell you all you need to know.

Time is money?? - This is a guy working on his own bike at home.....