grib

Parts lists here there is also some basic service data here; I don't think you could ever get a proper manual, only the handbook which came with the bike which was fairly basic.

Complete parts list (and tons more information) here. More useful stuff here.

I have been using Hebo boots for the last few years and have sprained both of my ankles badly during that time. What would anyone recommend as trials boots that give the best ankle support?

I have got a front tubeless rim that I want to use (with a tube) - should I use tubed or tubeless tyre, and would I need a security bolt?

Lee, tried sending you a PM but it says you can't receive any new messages. Are you going to be making some more covers?

How thick was the new base gasket? My 240 makes this noise with normal unleaded petrol but seems better with Super unleaded, I'm not sure it's completely gone though.

It's taken me a while to get round to doing this but here it is: Leaded bronze would have been eye wateringly expensive as it turns out, so I made the weight from steel instead. The modified flywheel with the new weight has the same moment of inertia as the 245 one with the big weight fitted (the other flywheel in the picture). How have you got on with your flywheel covers Lee?

He will need two cables to make it work (which he already appears to have from the pictures) - one needs to go from the voltage coil to the HT coil (+ve terminal) and one from the -ve HT coil terminal to the points. The points are closed most of the time which charges up the HT coil, when the points open the HT coil discharges via the spark plug. As far as I am aware the Dansi metal can coil is a capacitive discharge system (but I could be wrong here), I think Ivor will need an HT coil from an inductive discharge system such as a TY Yamaha (one with points), I think a TY is a 6V system so Ivor would need to check the voltage he is getting.

Theres no reason why it shouldn't work but the best thing by far would be to convert it back to electronic ignition - points are vastly inferior.

There are two holes in the flywheel to hold it whilst undoing the nut, best thing would be to use them.

11-39 works well for the gearing.

I have got a 245 and have just bought another front pipe off ebay which is longer than the original (see attached pic); does anyone know if there were different length pipes for some reason? I don't think it is off another model as the 243 & 247 pipes are very different and the 245 and 305 in the brochure pics below both have the short pipe.....?

I use a Denso iridium plug in my 240 and there doesn't seem to be a huge difference between it and a normal NGK plug, it is probably a bit easier to start but that is about it.

wiring diagram here Parts list here Bill Pye in Great Ayton is very helpful, a chat with him would probably help a lot; Frankfield Fantic

Better in what way? I am putting a 300 flywheel cover on a 245 (per our recent discussion on another thread) and calculated that I could either use a Dansi flywheel with some weight added, or machine a Ducati flywheel down and make up a new weight. I'm not sure I can advance the timing far enough with the Dansi without making some more measurements but it would be a lot less work - unless using the Ducati electrics is justified by them being better....

Can anyone tell me whether the later Ducati flywheel electrics are any better or worse than Dansi in terms of reliability please?

On a similar note; will a tube type front tyre sit OK on a tubeless rim (with a tube in it)? I have just bought a Fantic 245 and it has a tubeless front rim but after having read that tubeless front tyres aren't very good I want to use a tube type.

I have just bought a 245 and I'm not sure it has all of the correct bits on it: the flywheel only has one detatchable weight rather than the two shown in the manual, there are no holes for mounting the iner small weight either - I'm guessing the flywheel is from another model?. The alloy caps on the fork legs each have one cross head screw offset from the centre but I thought it should have a blank cap on one leg and an adjuster on the other - can anyone tell me whether this is correct please? It has FM363 stamped on the crankcases and FM 364 on the exhaust. Oh and the top end rattles like it is about to explode, I have read that they are a bit rattley but I am quite alarmed by the noise it makes. Thanks in advance.

How much do they cost?

Lee, are they NOS or remanufactured; they look very good.

Same plan - I am going to use a 245 motor with the flywheel machined down and a leaded bronze weight fitted. With the 300/later 240 cover fitted the raised pattern on the clutch & ignition covers will even match

According to this later 240s were fitted with the same cover as the 300. I have two 240s; one with an engine number below 8500 and the early casing, and one with an engine number above 8500 and the later casing, so it seems to be true and your cover isn't actually wrong.

Lee, from your comment above about having a 241 motor - will a 240 cover fit on any of the later crankcases or is the hole spacing different. I know the later flywheels are bigger (but I have a plan for that).

Lee, this looks good, what is it made of?

Can anyone tell me whether an original 301 silencer should have packing in it or should it just be the perforated tubes & chambers with no packing?