grib

Glad you got it sorted but a DellOrto doesn't have an overflow.

Sounds like it could be a leaky float needle to me: the needle can not stop the flow of fuel into the carb making the fuel level in the carb is too high this will cause it to bog down but with the fuel tap off the level reduces to the correct level and it runs properly for a while before it runs out of fuel.

About

Does anyone know whether a reed valve top end off (say) a 245 will fit on a 240 bottom end and if so is it a worthwhile mod?

There should be a bracket that bolts to the 3 longer head nuts and to the frame. There should also be clamps at the back of the engine similar to handlebar clamps, if these are not there then I would think that is bound to be the cause of the frame snapping.

Just use whatever is nearest, take care not to stretch too far though.

I am trying to track down an inlet air leak on my 240 - the engine does not return to idle very quickly when it is revved, infact sometimes I have to engage the clutch a bit to bring the revs down. I have tried adjusting the mixture screw and I have replaced the RH crank seal, base gasket, & inlet manifold gasket but there is no change. does anyone have any ideas? could it be sucking air at the carb top or throttle cable? BTW it is a new carb.

And let me guess - you're standing very close to a man who can supply them?

If it has a Ducati coil it should say on the side (in Italian) which colour wires go where: Rosso - Red, Bianco - White, Verde - Green. The second terminal on the CDI/coil marked Verde is where you connect the kill switch. There should also be another wire moulded in to the CDI which connects to the frame on one of the CDI mounting bolts.

So, does the noise get noticabley less when the clutch is pulled in?

I've screwed a 4" length of 2" angle to the garage wall about 8-10" from the floor, I put the wheel rim on blocks of wood and use a 6' scaffold pole and another block of wood to break the bead. I've also read that some people use the car/van instead of the bracket on the wall and a length of 3x2 instead of the scaffold pole.

Can anyone tell me how much preload I should put on my 240 kickstart return spring when installing it? Thanks.

When I fitted my GG supplied weight I drilled two new holes through the weight and flywheel to match the pins on my flywheel holder so I could torque it up again (or you could use the yee-hah zip gun method).

Does anyone know if a pair of yokes from a later bike (say 241) will fit?

The forks on my Fantic 240 have always been a bit sticky so I stripped them last weekend & put new seals & 5W oil in them, they seemed a bit better but still not great. Tonight I took the top yoke off (a Fantic 200 one) and measured the centres of the holes compared with the bottom yoke - 0.6mm less, so I put the original 240 yoke on & the forks are fine. The problem is I fitted the 200 yoke to improve the handlebar position, so, my question is are yokes usually machined as pairs so they match exactly? or is the difference likely to be caused by tolerances? (and does anyone have a pair of 200 yokes for sale?)

Does anyone know what the standard final drive gearing is for a 240, I've been told its 10:39 but the handbook I have says 12:39. I'm using 11:42 at the moment which is what was on the bike when I bought it, what does anyone else use/recommend?

Bill Pye might be interested.

Its the whole parts book i'm after mainly for part no. references when looking for NOS bits, would be very much obliged if you could sort me out.

A year or 18 months ago I saw scans of parts books for Fantic 240 & 300 engines and chassis on an american site called Powerhouse online, the scans have been removed and I've e-mailed the guy to see if he can send me copies but he cant be a***d to dig them out. I downloaded the 300 engine scans as I had a 301 at the time but I'm after copies of the 240 engine and chassis ones, does anyone have scanned copies of 240 engine & chassis parts books? (Anyone who wants copies of the 300 engine ones I've got is welcome to them).

My 240 wont idle properly - it doesn't return to idle when its revved when its cold, and when its hot the revs climb by themselves unless you slip the clutch. Does anyone knw what could be causing this? is it a common problem with 240s?

Are the clover leaves on the casings decals or part of the casting?

Is that your gripper on your avatar? Do you know if there is a "standard" car paint colour that is anywhere near, my dad had a bright orange Ford Escort in the late seventies.

Does anyone know what colour orange 250 Ossa Grippers were (e.g. RAL code) so I can get some paint mixed to the correct colour?

MT280432055 is the part no. for a complete 2004 clutch according to the 2006 parts book, the only other complete clutch listed is a 2002 (also in the 2006 parts book - MT280232055). Suggests that there are only two different types of clutch plates.

Sounds like a standard TMX report - Its the best bike in the world just like all the rest are.