grib

Would be better to solder the wires together and use adhesive lined heatshrink tube to insulate the joints.

75:1 is 66.67 ml in 5 litres of petrol, 75ml gives 66.67:1.

I agree, its a nightmare, I ended up selling my soul to the devil to get mine back on.

I used to use Putoline light gear oil and couldn't get rid of the clutch drag completely, switched to ATF and it is far better, I even had to adjust the clutch lever because the clutch was engaging too far out.

When you bleed the clutch make sure that as well as bleeding the air from the line you also bleed the slave cylinder by holding the clutch lever in and then opening the bleed nipple, the clutch spring then pushes fluid/air back out of the slave cylinder. When I did this with my Pro i got some air out of the slave cyl & along with using the right oil (you are using the right oil?) this sorted out my dragging clutch.

Only need a brake light if front & rear lights are fitted, can only use rubber bulb horn if the bike is first used before 1973; MOT testers manual

I bought an HT coil for my 240 from Steve Goode and it has run well ever since, you need to wire it up differently but there are instructions included. Bill Pye wants

I'm not sure about classic trials in general but the Manx classic regs do not allow hydraulic controls.

I bought a second 240 last night and the airbox is mounted on the inside of the bracket on the frame wheras on my existing bike the airbox is mounted on the outside of the bracket - where it was when I bought it. Which side should it be mounted? it looks a bit odd mounted inside and it looks a bit too close to the exhaust but I have always struggled to get the rubber hose on to the airbox with it mounted outside.

The heads are 12 point 7mm AF I bought a Britool socket to do mine, cost about

I have a pair of alloy Falcons on my 240 and they are far superior to the original shocks. I have also tried 200 yokes but have reverted back to the 240 yokes, I think it is just personal preference as to what is "better".

Hey Dan, is the point of your reply to let everyone know that you have a 2007 250?

No, it wouldn't.

Should I take any notice of the direction of rotation arrow on a Michelin rear tyre or just reverse it to get more wear from it?

Shorter lever stroke will always equal more force to pull the lever no matter how it is achieved. I would have thought that a longer lever stroke would give a more progressive clutch, but then I suppose you may run in to problems with the clutch not disengaging fully.

I've used Central Wheel Components for spokes & nipples in the past, v. helpful and (so i'm told) supply everyone else in the country.

I agree, my 03 250 pro has a standard master cylinder, correct clutch pack thickness and ATF in the gearbox, the clutch action is fine.

Yes, the ratio of master cylinder cross sectional area to slave cylinder cross sectional area gives you the actual mechanical advantage

The size of the reservoir and the hose make no difference, it is the diameter of the master cylinder that make a difference. A bigger diameter master cylinder will require more lever force (for the same lever pivot point), as an example if the master & slave cylinders were the same diameter you would only have to pull the clutch lever a millimetre or two to disengage the clutch but you'd need hands like Geoff Capes to do it.

I leave it until it is touch dry (2 coats) and then cook it at about 150

I find PJ1 exhaust paint gives the best finish.

The white wire is the ground, the green is the power to the CDI/coil and the red is the trigger, the brown is the power for the lights & horn - make sure it isn't shorted to ground, apart from that ignore it. The yellow wire hanging out of the coil should have a ring terminal on it and be grounded to the frame under one of the coil mounting bolts, if it isn't you wont get a spark. The two green tabs on the coil are linked inside, the second one is to connect a kill switch (other side of the switch to ground). The readings sound OK except for the 76V, are you sure it isn't 7.6V? as I think it should be 12v with the engine running, having said that i've never had a 309 and what I have said is generic Fantic advice. I would wire it up as above and try it, if it doesn't work then ring Bill Pye - very helpful, number usually in T&MX or search this forum. Wiring diagram in this post.

You can get a very good finish with PJ1 satin black engine paint, prepare the castings well and cure the paint in the oven once it has dried. Use 230cc of fork oil per leg, handbook says 10w but I prefer 5w.

The cap should have a resistor it is there to supress radio interference. I would guess the plug does not need to be a resistor type - should be easy enough to find out. The reason for the fault is probably the connection between the lead & cap deteriorating but I have also had problems with intermittent continuity in old plug caps. I would suggest buying a new NGK rubber type cap and the correct grade of plug.

As you say they are vents, any excess fuel would flow into the crankcases, take a look at the height of the vent fittings on the carb body.