grib

I bought a new carb for my 240 from Eurocarb and the body is different in the region of the idle port, the old carb has a groove machined in the body whereas the new one does not (see attached image). I've never run the bike with the old carb but with the new one it seems very easy to stall, does anyone know whether the lack of a groove is likely to make a 240 more easy to stall?

Last weekend I rode a trial on my 03 GG Pro and, barring the twinshock class, it was probably the oldest bike there, it seems that a lot of people buy a new bike every year or two.

I use 75ml of Castrol TTS, any fully synthetic 2T oil should be OK.

Does it look like this?

The best material for a heat shield is not one that conducts heat! The YOU HAVE USED WORDS OR A PHRASE WHICH ARE NOT PERMITTED ON THIS WEBSITE. PLEASE DELETE YOUR POST/TOPIC. DO NOT TRY TO CIRCUMVENT THE FILTERS IN PLACE ON THIS WEBSITE guard is made of aluminium - one of the best conductors of heat there is. Carbon fibre guard on BVM's site is the way to go.

Sounds like a blockage in the pilot jet/idle circuit to me. Look at the "Documentation" section in the "Customer area" of this website

The drain plug is for when you either drown your bike & the crankcase fills with water or when your float needle starts leaking and fills the crankcase with fuel (no overflow on a Delorto). The window in the piston is needed to ensure that the inlet port timing is not controlled by the piston skirt, the port stays open for a full 360 degrees and inlet timing is controlled only by the reeds.

That ferret doesn't look too happy!

Connect "cable de pare" & frame to kill switch.

What are all the other holes for?

Use 230cc of 10W fork oil per leg. Bill Pye is the best person to talk to about setup & parts for Fantics - 01642 722378.

The Hebo one is from BVM, looks quite different from the one on the GG site, the Hebo one looks as if it is held in place by one central bolt but the GGUK one has a hole about 50mm diameter in the middle and is held on by 2 M6 screws.

If the big end bearing is knackered then both the con rod and crank pin will be as well, they are designed to be replaced with the bearing. If you intend to keep the bike for 3 or 4 years do the job properly and buy a rod kit, if you don't then you will have it in bits again before long.

Is this Hebo flywheel weight for the Pro an alternative to the one sold by GG UK or is it just for a different model than the one shown on the GG site?

They are for adjusting the compression & rebound damping Read this for an explanation of how to set up your suspension.

A mate of mine is breaking a Zero, 2 sets of crankcases both looked good when I saw them this evening, check the TC classifieds his name is Peter Hindley.

Read Jon Stoodley's article here, you will have to ignore the bit that says record the settings before you start adjusting but the common problems section at the end should help you to get things set up to your liking. In the absence of base settings I would set all damping adjusters to their mid point and see what it is like

IKBs carb adaptor is a very worthwhile addition, you will see why the first time you take the airbox off. I have also changed the front sprocket for a 10T which I find makes the bike easier to control, I use a slow action throttle (black tube) for the same reason and have put some bigger YOU HAVE USED WORDS OR A PHRASE WHICH ARE NOT PERMITTED ON THIS WEBSITE. PLEASE DELETE YOUR POST/TOPIC. DO NOT TRY TO CIRCUMVENT THE FILTERS IN PLACE ON THIS WEBSITE snail cams on to take up the extra slack created by fitting the smaller sprocket. I am thinking of adding a flywheel weight next.

I want to fit a flywheel weight to my 250 Pro but can't see how to hold the flywheel when refitting it as the weight uses the two holes for fitment, can anyone tell me how they have done it, also how tight should I torque the bolt?

cc's are the same as ml's, I use 400-500cc of Putoline light gear oil.

In my experience powder coating is s**t, I would get it sprayed with yellow 2 pack paint.

Just checked the parts list - cases are the same but 125/200 crank is different to 250/280/300.

Green, red, and white wires go to CDI, terminals may be marked verde, rosso, & bianco, green is the trigger, red & white are power. There should also be a fourth terminal on the CDI (connected internally to the trigger terminal) which you can wire to the kill switch (other side of kill switch to ground). Yellow wire is probably a power feed for lights etc. although this is usually brown or orange.

I had ignition trouble with my 240 recently, the measurements I made are; LT coil (working fine) 737 ohms, Trigger (reconditioned) 39.6 ohms. If you are not going to have lights then just take out the lighting coils (orange & brown wires) and leave the LT coil (red wire) in place.