spark

Yeah nice diagram. I have not blown out my trials bike exhaust but I have done my enduro bike more times than I can remember. Both ends of the exhaust need to be blocked and then the exhaust needs to be pressurised with air. I use 6 bar as I find the higher pressure I use the less heat needs to be applied. Heat up the area with an oxy acetylene torch and when it starts to go red the dent will start to push out. But, and this is a big but, if you need to ask how to plug the ends and are not familiar with using oxy acetylene torches rather get someone who specialises in this to do it. At that pressure an end cap flying off could kill or seriously hurt someone, and it is easy to apply too much heat and put a nice hole in the pipe. Also Titanium is a reactive material when heated too much in the presence of oxygen, so I'm not sure if it will enjoy being heated up to that temperature without a shielding gas. Not having done a titanium pipe I can't say. Looking at how bad the dent is I would recommend getting someone experienced to do it.

I take the chain off and clean it in petrol, but thinners would work too.

I hope not!

I have always broken my bikes in pretty much like that, even before coming across the article. They have all been 2 strokes, and it works well for me.

Yeah we were bitching about this just a short while ago. I am on my second mudguard now and what has put an end to the shattering mudguard is thin cable ties and a plastic numberplate bolt in place of the metal one. It has popped off several times now but not broken. Just take spare plastic bolts and long nose pliers because when the head of the bolt breaks off it is difficult to get out without long nose pliers.

The outer profile would also have to be trimmed. Then what about the undercuts underneath the mudguard that hook onto the bike? Maybe you can do away with them but I noticed on my new Gas Gas mudguard that it helps a lot in keeking the guard stable, and also the cable ties last longer. My old one had this piece broken off to compare to. Not saying you can't do it, because of course you can, just pointing out the shortfalls of the process.

I think my 300 is perfect just the way it is straight from the factory.

Yeah for sure the aftermarket guards are vacuum formed because it is cheap and you can get away with it. However I don't think vacuum forming for mudgaurds is a great idea because it's not gonna have the quality of finish of the originals, unless that is not important to you.

The mudguards I have seen are injection moulded and most definately not vacuum formed.

What do you hate about the 2010 Gassers? It has S3 pipe standard, and S3 cylinder head as well.

I recently went from riding a 2001 Sherco to a 2010 Gas Gas and the difference is really worth it. The upgrade in suspension is worth it alone. It is much easier to learn the trick stuff and the bike is so much more fun to ride. If you think riding trials is fun now, wait till you hop on a new bike!

With the quantities that will be sold

I happen to make moulds and extrusion dies for the plastic industry, and we run them here as well. Virgin material is not that expensive, around R13/kg. Thats about 2$/kg. A Gas Gas mudguard only weighs 340g so the material cost is 2$ for THREE! I dont see how that is expensive. A lot of the stuff we sell is heavier than a mudguard and we sell it for the equivalent of 4$, and still make a good profit after all costs are taken into account. Granted we do sell more items than they sell mudguards, but still.... What a ripoff! Maybe it's the super titanium impregnated, carbon fiber inspired sticker that is so expensive to make....

Not so long ago I was in the same situaton as you. My Post On Springs I am 100kg and too heavy for the standard springs on my Gas Gas. I got the 10% stiffer fork and shock springs from Lewisport and am much happier. It is not quite as plush over the really small stuff but it sits much better and overall the suspension is better. The rear no longer has that saggy feeling that you have used up half the suspension just standing on it. I initially just put the shock spring in and it felt much better but then the front felt too soft. With the 10% stiffer fork and shock springs it feels balanced. My rear sag is now 68mm which is maybe still more than ideal but I wouldn't recommend going stiffer than 10%. One thing I have noticed is that the rebound speed has increased quite a bit and I may need to compensate on the clickers a bit for that.

Heya Tim! *waves back*

Thanks for the reply Liviob, much appreciated!

Had a problem with my brand new Gas Gas tyre going down, put some Slime equivalent tyre sealer in and leaking 100% stopped.

Ok I am the first one to admit jetting is not the most exciting subject, but surely someone has an Evo and rides at sea level?

Hey, my mate has just acquired an Evo 290 and I was wondering if anyone could tell me what the recommended jetting would be at coastline altitude? At the moment he has a 48 pilot jet and a 110 main. He is worried it may be a bit lean as the bike came from a higher altitude inland, although it was supposedly rejetted for coastline altitude. Thanks!

Hehe, wow ok, I can see how you need the 20% springs then! I will let you know, I just wish the damn bike would get here already!

Hey Laser1, if you don't mind me asking, how much do you weigh seeing as you went with the 20% springs? I have gone with the 10% anyways. Think I will ride the bike for a while with the standard suspension before I change to the stiffer springs. At least that way I can compare.

Hi Adrian, you must have the most experience with these springs so I will take your advice and go with the 10%. Thanks.

Hi laser1, thanks I have enjoyed your posts. It's good to know the steps you have taken and the results achieved.

I got a reply from Mandy at Lewisport and she said that 10% stiffer springs for forks and shock would be more than adequate for my 98kg (216lb) mass. Also I should not be mixing different rates like 20% for the shock and 10% for the forks. They obviously know their stuff, but it just doesnt seem to add up (if the standard suspension is setup for a 70kg rider). I think the right way to work out the load on the springs is to add the mass of the rider to the sprung mass of the motorcycle. So 68kg - wheels, swingarm, calipers, bottom of forks etc = 48kg (as an estimate, havent measured!). So the load on the standard spring with an ideal 70kg rider should be roughly 118kg. With me on the bike it would equal roughly 146kg. That is a 24% greater load on the springs, so how could a 10% stiffer spring get me sprung equal to a 70kg rider?

To be honest I never asked them, perhaps I should.