July 1, 200719 yr It's about time I started changing my own tyres. The rear on my Beta is almost exactly a year old and is almost a semi-slick. Here's the thing: The only related tools I have are a couple of pretty decent tyre levers and a foot pump. Do I stand any chance at all? I'd rather not shell out for expensive bead-breakers etc. since it's not something I need very often (can you tell?)
July 2, 200719 yr The beading tool is more useful than the bead breaker. I used to use a spade to break the bead, but getting it back on could be a nightmare. My beading tool does it no probs. Without the beading tool, forget getting the tyre back in the bead with a foot pump and even with one, I'd go down the compressor route, even if it means finding a garage with a decent one (not all of them are any good - the forecourt pumps which do short bursts and beep when your tyre is up to pressure can be a pain). If you haven't got access to a compressor and don't fancy forking out
July 2, 200719 yr I've got a bead braeker and a compressor, but even then it can be difficult to get the tyre to seal enough to re-seat on the rim. Especially new ones which are still stiff. Steve Saunders gave me an invaluable tip for helping with this. He suggested using a 14 inch push bike inner tube to take up the gap whilst inflating. Simply get the new tyre positioned, slightly inflate the push bike inner tube and push it between the bead and the rim. As the tyre inflates you can gently ease the inner tube out. Well worth the
July 2, 200719 yr The beading tool is more useful than the bead breaker. I used to use a spade to break the bead, but getting it back on could be a nightmare. My beading tool does it no probs.Without the beading tool, forget getting the tyre back in the bead with a foot pump and even with one, I'd go down the compressor route, even if it means finding a garage with a decent one (not all of them are any good - the forecourt pumps which do short bursts and beep when your tyre is up to pressure can be a pain). If you haven't got access to a compressor and don't fancy forking out
July 2, 200719 yr There are probably as many techniques for changing tyres as there are contibutors to this forum! I use the same process as Scorpa3 and have found it to be the most successful ( I thought it was an 18" inner tube) The only thing I would add is to generously lubricate both the tyre and tube with tyre soap. I have used liquid household soap in the past but I am told that this can affect the rubber, only judging by how long a tyre lasts I don't see this as a major problem. As I have a compressor, I have never tried fitting a new tyre using a footpump, but I have been successful in re-seating used tyres 'in the field' when they have come off the rim, using just the ineer tube method and a foot pump
July 2, 200719 yr There are probably as many techniques for changing tyres as there are contibutors to this forum! I use the same process as Scorpa3 and have found it to be the most successful ( I thought it was an 18" inner tube) Yes, sorry, I meant to type 18 inch.
July 2, 200719 yr There are probably as many techniques for changing tyres as there are contibutors to this forum! I use the same process as Scorpa3 and have found it to be the most successful ( I thought it was an 18" inner tube) Yes, sorry, I meant to type 18 inch. You were right first time, it is 14" cycle inner tube, an 18" is too big once inflated. Alternatively YOU HAVE USED WORDS OR A PHRASE WHICH ARE NOT PERMITTED ON THIS WEBSITE. PLEASE DELETE YOUR POST/TOPIC. DO NOT TRY TO CIRCUMVENT THE FILTERS IN PLACE ON THIS WEBSITE do a latex type version which does the job. The problem with the cycle tube is that you can pinch and puncture them.
July 2, 200719 yr for a bead breaker i use a couple of 6" quick clamps, the orange ones from screwfix, about
July 3, 200719 yr Investing in a compressor is the best thing I ever did. There's so many uses other than blowing up tyres that you'll wonder how you ever got by without one. Local classified ads see them from
July 3, 200719 yr The cheapest bead breaker is a 2x4 piece of lumber, about 6ft long. Piece 1 (the lever) about 4 ft of it! Piece 2 (the backing) about 1 ft long, goes under the edge of the bottom rim for support. Piece 3 (the ram) may be from 6 to 12 inches dependant upon vehicle height! Place tire under or near lower edge of car(between wheels) with Piece 2 under rim. Position piece 3 on area of bead to be broken in verticle position next to rim. Position piece 1 under lower edge(pinch weld) of car to apply downward force on piece 3 as if you were trying to use the leverage to lift the car. It will pop right off the bead! Lengths and angles can be moved and adjusted accordingly, but with the long lever is is a piece of cake! Flip it and do the other side! Cost $2.00 US
July 3, 200719 yr 2 dollar's ???? do you think i am made of money??? I have had good sucess using the side stand on one of my other bikes. simply place the wheel on a a sheet of ply to protect the rim, wheel the second bike into position with the side stand down. Put the end of the stand on the tire close to the rim then lean the bike over until the bead breaks. I have found this to be very easy to control, but for real difficult one's you could always use a harley or similar.
July 3, 200719 yr The beading tool is more useful than the bead breaker. I used to use a spade to break the bead, but getting it back on could be a nightmare. My beading tool does it no probs.Without the beading tool, forget getting the tyre back in the bead with a foot pump and even with one, I'd go down the compressor route, even if it means finding a garage with a decent one (not all of them are any good - the forecourt pumps which do short bursts and beep when your tyre is up to pressure can be a pain). If you haven't got access to a compressor and don't fancy forking out Edited July 3, 200719 yr by bikespace
July 4, 200719 yr Good going Alan, just need another 5k to buy the bike to be used! I have the spare sidestand, just cannot seem to get enough behind it! Might make an excellent "piece 3" though! Really!
July 6, 200719 yr copemech Posted Jul 2 2007, 11:42 PM The cheapest bead breaker is a 2x4 piece of lumber, about 6ft long. Piece 1 (the lever) about 4 ft of it! Piece 2 (the backing) about 1 ft long, goes under the edge of the bottom rim for support. Piece 3 (the ram) may be from 6 to 12 inches dependant upon vehicle height! Place tire under or near lower edge of car(between wheels) with Piece 2 under rim. Position piece 3 on area of bead to be broken in verticle position next to rim. Position piece 1 under lower edge(pinch weld) of car to apply downward force on piece 3 as if you were trying to use the leverage to lift the car. It will pop right off the bead! Lengths and angles can be moved and adjusted accordingly, but with the long lever is is a piece of cake! Flip it and do the other side! Cost $2.00 US That is the method I use with slight change. Instead of vehicle I use a Piece #4 Piece #4 about 1 ft long affixed horizontal to wall stud in garage. all else is the same as yessir it just goes pop! right off rim. I place new tire on rim using tire irons and To get new one seated on rim I take the lazy way out and take it to a guy I know and he will seat the bead for free. I have tried ratchet straps with no luck (possibly I was doing it wrong)
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