stevel

Siamese twins walk into a bar in Canada and park themselves on a bar stool. One of them says to the bartender, "Don't mind us; we're joined at the hip. I'm John, he's Jim. Two Molson Canadian beers, draft please." The bartender, feeling slightly awkward, tries to make polite conversation while pouring the beers. "Been on holiday yet, lads?" "Off to England next month," says John. "We go to England every year, rent a car and drive for miles. Don't we, Jim?" Jim agrees. "Ah, England!" says the bartender. "Wonderful country... the history, the beer, the culture..." "Nah, we don't like that British crap," says John. "Hamburgers and Molson's beer, that's us, eh Jim? And we can't stand the English - they're so arrogant and rude." "So why keep going to England?" asks the bartender. "It's the only chance Jim gets to drive."

When you say you took off the stator cover, do you mean the flywheel? If so its worth checking that you put it back with the woodruff key in place. Also if you didn't tighten it enough it is possible that the key has sheared putting the timing out (hence the cause of the backfire)

Play in the discs is normal, they are 'floating' discs

Bondy, Its difficult to explain, but easy to do. Place the middle of the turd into the fork of the tool, then push the tool complete with turd through the hole in the tyre until about 15 to 20mm of the two ends of the turd are left sticking out, then gently pull the tool back out leaving the turd behind. I've found that you may have to open the fork on the tool a little before you use it to avoid pulling the turd back out of the tyre. Once done you can cut off the excess Hope this helps

I don't necessarily agree that a vote is going to resolve anything, but surely if a vote was held, why shouldn't it show the truth. Everyone who contributes to these pages, whether a rider or not has shown that they are passionate about this sport and deserve their say. I no longer ride, but I do contribute to the sport by regularly observing and marking out, If this makes me a 'know it all' then I make no apology for that, but it does give me the right to an opinion!!

Telecat I get the impression that you knew that the AGM was being held, but you were unaware of the agenda. If that is the case you chose not to be there, so you can hardly blame all those who did turn out for voting for an outcome that you disagree with

Welcome to the trials fraternity, I hope you enjoy your new toy. In my humble opinion, any modern trials bike will out perform 95% of its riders. Aftermarket goodies are available in the form of exhausts, shocks etc, but as you are new to trials I would suggest that at this stage you probably would neither notice the difference nor benefit from it. Unlike motorX, trials is less machinery dependant and more focussed on rider ability. Keep your money in your pocket for now, get the feel of the bike and get some events under your belt. When you are at trials talk to other riders with the same machinery and see what mods/ improvements they have done and you will be able to make a judgement as to what will best help you improve your bike to suit you

Welcome to the trials fraternity, I hope you enjoy your new toy. In my humble opinion, any modern trials bike will out perform 95% of its riders. Aftermarket goodies are available in the form of exhausts, shocks etc, but as you are new to trials I would suggest that at this stage you probably would neither notice the difference nor benefit from it. Unlike motorX, trials is less machinery dependant and more focussed on rider ability. Keep your money in your pocket for now, get the feel of the bike and get some events under your belt. When you are at trials talk to other riders with the same machinery and see what mods/ improvements they have done and you will be able to make a judgement as to what will best help you improve your bike to suit you

If its such a great idea, why don't you set out your club's next trial in this manner and let us all know how it works I can't for the life of me see how you will take any marks off 90% of the field, but I remain open minded and look forward to you reporting back

It seems that this subject generates more emotion than any other when it is raised. Both sides of the arguement can make a very resonable case for why they are right. If you can stop & hop and have aspirations to be british champion then 'stop' rules are for you; if you can't hop about and just want a reasonable days sport then maybe 'no-stop' is the answer. The bottom line is there is no middle ground so we will always have the 2 systems As a non rider I have no axe to grind,so the only suggestion I can make is to pick your events depending on your preference. I would say in repose to beatabeta that in the northern centres where I watch (and observe), the entries don't seem to suffer as a result of riding no-stop rules, there is rarely a shortage of observers, I don't see any significant queing, nor do I get any significant issues with riders contesting their scores. As long as the sections are marked out in a manner that allows them to be ridden no-stop then they don't have to take the level of marks he suggests and they can & do provide a suitable test of man & machine (whether it be a pre65 or modern bike) So as I said earlier, both scoring methods have their merits and adherents, and are here to stay so live and let live & ride what you prefer.

To get back to bondy's original question, I believe the screws he is referring to are nothing to do with bleeding the forks (when did anyone last bleed their forks?) but are the suspension adjustment screws. The right side (as sat on the bike)adjusts the spring pre-load and the left side adjusts the damping.

I get the impression from your post that you haven't changed the oil since you got the bike. If this is the case I would suggest that you take Benbeta23's advise and do an oil change before you start any strip down of the clutch. From the symptoms you have, this is the most obvious cause and the cheapest fix. If the oil hasn't been changed for months then it may be worth doing an initial change, running the bike for a while to flush the system, and then changing it again. Most regular riders that I know change oil every 5/10 trials Give it a try and let us know how you get on

Not if you use a tubeless tyre

I would suggest you get him a helmet at the very least as Nicola wouldn't be to chuffed if her 'baby' landed on his head. Motorbikes have a nasty habit of dumping you off and it hurts far more than crashing on the Xbox. Having said that its always good to see someone else getting the 2 wheel 'bug'

Have you checked that it is a tubeless tyre that you have fitted?

Go to the Beta UK website, where you'll find exploded views, parts lists and prices for all parts

This may appear harsh; but why should these riders receive exemption from the time limit just because they were stopped by the police? Surely its just bad luck for these riders, just as having a puncture? Once you start judging what is acceptable for exemption and what is not; then you are on the start of a slippery slope & a potential nightmare for officials

From the A1 , head north on the A68 until you come to the A690. then west on the A690 through Wolsingham to Frosterley. Turn left in Frosterley, through Hill End and you fall over Bollihope Hope you find it OK its usually a cracking trial

Been thinking about getting a new/spare rear wheel for my evo and have seen some D.I.D style wheels for sale. I contacted the dealer and they said that it would fit but it would need spacers behind the sprocket & spacers making for the wheel. What I would like to know is, has anybody done this & if so how difficult is it or does anyone supply a D.I.D style wheel that will fit?

Just had a similar problem, and originally thought the usual i.e water pump seal, but unlikely as the bike had only done 5 trials. Eventually found that a screw on top of the engine, behind the kick start, was loose. (kick start stop bolt??) Unfortunately due the routing of the exhaust you need to either remove the exhaust or cut down an allen key to suit. However if this is the fault it is a relatively simple fix compared with the alternatives. Steve

Sorry, but you have no chance of sealing a rotating shaft with Rad weld. If you have replaced the seal correctly and you still have a leak then the obvious problem is that the water pump shaft is scored. You can often feel this by running your thumb nail along the shaft. A replacement shaft is not that expensive (about

tubed tyre on tubeless rim?

I think it is necessary to differentiate between the serious injuries (as previous post) that need the services of medical professionals and the minor injuries that can be treated with a

Well said GasGasBen!! We all make mistakes, for a variety of reasons- sometimes through ignorance, misinformation or as you say confusion- whatever the reason it is no excuse for disrespect and insults. We often see discussions on the forum where conflicting views are expressed, this is both expected and healthy, but comments as made to this member are totally out of order Steve

I believe only A&B classes are timed