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Fantic 200


ruger1586
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Hi there eveyone, I'm new to this forum (I've browsed it before), I have just bought a fantic 200, (just to muck about on, no comps) it's a runner but with problems.......can't get it to tickover properly, and it has a starting problem........sometimes 1st kick and away she goes........sometimes it just will not start.....!!!

Tried allsort but I now think I might need to replace the carb. I might go for one of these OKO ones..???

Also, the bike will not start with the clutch pulled in, has to be in neutral, clutch out, to start. Duh!! Don't get it?? I'm gonna see if I can get some help/ideas here..or else sell it and start again.

I've just put it on the well known e-market..... really brassed off with it.....it's SO near, yet I just don't have the ability to get it right.

HELP!!!!!

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Hi,

The fantic 200 is a great twinshock when running right, it should start easily when it is working properly.

The engine has to be in neutral with the clutch out to start it, thats the way they are.

If you can get it running right you wont be disappointed.

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Dont give up on it - there great little bikes and hard to come by now.

I did my first SSDT and finished my first Scott on one .

the only frustration was the fact that you couldn't start them in gear.

Gizza5 rode one in his first SSDT - he might buy it for his last :thumbup: - that would be worth watching :thumbup::bouncy:

Edited by overthehill
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Gizza5 rode one in his first SSDT - he might buy it for his last :thumbup: - that would be worth watching :bouncy::lol:

1983 I was about 11 stone wet through; now I am just over that ;);) so I would have to bore it out a bit :thumbup:

post-516-1231312708.jpg

Me c1984

Edited by GIZZA5
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Thanks fellas, I will try it again. I did get it to run and had a little jaunt on it but.......when I stopped/stalled it, it was an absolute pig to get going again!! Frustrating!!!

Does anyone have any ideas about the kickstart???? Mine (the one fitted) is pretty straight and unlike say a TL kickstart is not bent to clear the footpeg when starting!! ...........So.........when starting the peg must be folded up (it doesn't like to stay up though), then it falls down when you kick!! ....Also the kickstart needs to travel its full cycle to get any chance of the bike firing, that is to say from dead upright to as far down as it will travel,,,,,,,, is this right????? Other trials bikes seem to need much less of a kick to fire???

Ta everyone.

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Other trials bikes seem to need much less of a kick to fire???

The fantic is no diffrent to fire up than the other's,Think you should take it to a shop and let them fix it for you.

Kickstart should be straight and it should stop at the footpeg,not a good idea to take the kickstart beyond the peg theres a spring behind that lot you could kill.

or you could sell it to me??

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Cheers lads,,, I'm confused now. Thought everyone that could recognise a polski fiat would know better!! Anyway.......if my fantic kickstart should touch the footpeg during the starting sequence, then perhaps the timing is awry??? Any thoughts......??? It seems that there is not enough compression/spark/umph!! to get it to go, if the kickstart only goes to the peg.

I think that this fantic has to go the nearest greasy workshop, as suggested, where a fat, balding man covered in evil smelling oily ****e will prod it and poke it, suck a long breath through his teeth and then proceed to work a miracle. (Wish me luck). I expect that he will want to keep it a few weeks, (I'll probably forget about it/ put it to the back of my mind), then, out of the blue, he'll ring me and tell me to collect it. I'll walk into the workshop and there it will be.......like a restoration job out of a magazine!!!! It sits there purring after he kicked it over once!!! Can you believe it??? And then to cap it all, ........he refuses to take payment for his work, saying he used to have one "back in the day".

As I wheel it out to my truck I notice a faded picture of a young fella in an old barbour/belstaff riding a 200 up a rocky stream. The caption beneath says "Winner of the Scottish Six Day Trial".

What would be the chances eh????

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Sorry guys, but all FIAT posts deleted. I know it's easy for things to wander off-topic, but we do ask that the bike specific Forums remain bike related. Do feel free to start a FIAT topic in the Off-Topic Forum if you really feel the need :thumbup:

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Back again everyone......

Had some very good advice from another site user, and hope that I'm going in the right direction now. If work commitments allow I'm gonna get the tools out.

I'd post a picture of the fabulous Fantic if I knew how. Any suggestions?? I'm really not very good at this techno stuff.

Cheers everyone.

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first place to start is the carby. if the bike has been laid up for yonks, the timing wont change. The carby wiull degrade. First bet from me (5 quid) is that the o-ring on the choke jet is awol. Take of the carb, take off the float chamber. The longest jet, under the choke lever, has an o-ring on it. It will probably be butchered. That will need replacing. The other jets will need cleaning as will the setting screws and their o-rings. Dont loose the washers between the screw springs and o-rings. Check the o-ring at the top of the slide 8cover) I had a bike where that was missing. Check and removed any gunge, this will occurr when the fuel in the bowl is left standing and evaporates. The oil will remain and go hard. Check also the slide for wear. If so think about a new one but remember that the slide bore will also be worn. typical sign of this is that the bike will take a long time to return to idle when warm after reving it. jets should be 92 main, 42 pilot.

A carby overhaul will still leave you a worn slide bore so think about an oko. I would buy a kit and not try to jet one myself. try Chris at Classictrialuk for a bolt on replacement.

If it has been standing for a long time, I would have taken the head off and checked the mains etc before statring. i was given a 300 engine and told it was ready to go. Taking the head and barrel off showed it was half full with a water/oil mix. I stripped that engine and crank and it was ok. if I had started it I think it would have gone belly up.

Check the silencer as it will be full of ****. If it is heavy then that is all old oil. Cut clean repack and reweld or go for a WES. Some hate them I love em. Loogk good, light, repackable. Definitly better than an old stuffed up stndard silencer. The exhaust will need cleaning sometime. Check on here for caustic soda solutions.

I assume airfilkter is new and lightly oiled, carb and filter rubbers are good and not perished and that the plug is new.

If all that fails then have a look at the timing but I think it will just be there. Not out, not damaged. If it stops when hot, the coil may be breaking down but check all above first.

Final have a good look for cracks on the frame. These bikes were well built and handled lots, but some of mine show cracking on the footrest and head gusste webbing. If so reweld or think about moving down and back.

Edited by Lee Harris
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Thanks for the help Lee,

I think it might be simpler to put new carb on the bike. I will contact the bloke that advertises the OKO, and I've already spoken to Bill Pye about a new Delorto.

In the long run it may be that the OKO is the best choice, I see by the advert that they are supposed to increase this or that, I would like to fit one because they seem easier to adjust/maintain than the Delorto. Of course all this will depend upon price.

I have also had a user here advising that crank seals have a bearing on my problem, also coils as you mention.......I think I have two options......try a new carb, and then if there's still a problem carry on in trial and error........or.........strip the lot and rebuild....I don't know if the engine is on it's original piston or a resized one.

If I strip the engine (this will my first one), will I need any special tools??? Does anyone have any advice on a rebuild?? For instance where do I get gaskets and such, and are the internals gears and such available?????

All I want is for the bike to be reliable little knock-around toy really, however it looks like it could end up a restoration/rebuild............hell.......

Thanks again everyone that's offered advice.

Bye for now.

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well having done something similer to yourself then your on the right track. my bike ran ok ( won the class first time out) but the oko carb from classictrials was spot on just as the guy says it will be. it has an adapter for the rubbers on already and is correctly jetted ready to go. i played with the idle and tickover adjustment for a couple of hours till it was set how i wanted. i cant ask for much more its smooth and powerful. job done delivered to your door and fitted in a hour or so.

the barral and bore on mine were a lttle worn so i opted for a re plate and a new piston all from bob wright in weston super mare. they bolted back up evry easily the most frustrating part is getting the damned front of the exhaust off. but off it comes ( check out some photos on this site on how to twist it)

bill pye sorted me some new springs for the forks and off we went. loverly bike it gets better every time i ride it roll on the rest of the year.

i think i'm going to register it and do road trials as well as local twinshock trials..

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the 200 crank seals can be replaced with the engine in place. get two spokes and grind the head, not the threaded end to make hooks. Push them in and pull the seals out. For the cost of the seals and the time, well worth it on an old bike. The 200s cant be rebored. the clinder is plated. try the carby firts, then the seals and see how it runs

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