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Water Pump Seals And Shaft Done-Still Milky


shercoben12
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just got my water pump back from the shop whith new shaft and seal.

i drained the gearbox oil and put the pump back on. then i topped up the coolant and put new oil in.

rode around for a minute or two and the oils now gone cloudy!

my question is... is this just the leftover oil that never came out or has the pump got another leak.

is it still ok to use it like this if its just the leftover oil thats made it cloudy?

dont really wont to change the oil again as thats £6 wasted!

the bikes an 08 125 Gas Gas

thanks

ben

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Ben

there's milky and milky.... given the Sherco has no oil viewing window, where are you looking to see the milky oil?

A small amount of water in the oil will not harm anything in the short term, so i suggest keep riding the bike for an hour or so and see:-

  • Does it get worse.. in the extreme it will go a cream colour
  • Does the cooling system water level go down?
  • Have you been power washing the bike since you refilled the oil?
  • Have you got a long small pipe fitted to the gearbox breather?

If there is a leak the coolant level should go down and the oil should get worse.

If it gets worse after power washing, consider how water could have got into the gearbox... there are a few ways.

Do that and come back to us.

Dom

If it doesnt go down and the oil doesnt get worse, run it for a bit longer then drain and refill with fresh oil.

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Hi, Ben!

Ben, on some Gas Gas models, I've read that the main bearings for the crankshaft are lubed by the tranny fluid. Your model may not be like that, but it's really not worth taking a chance, Because (as has been said already) ATF is cheap, and I don't want watered down oil lubing the crank, transmission, clutch, or anything else, I'd change the fluid again (and probably again after that, like Nigel Dabster said earlier).

You probably could ride it, for a short while, going easy on it, but I've yet to see someone your age go easy on a dirt bike, hee hee......

Jimmie

Edited by mr neutron
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Remove the water pump from the clutch casing without taking the hoses off and without draining the system.

If it is still leaking you will see coolant on the inside of the water pump seal. Tap it lightly against your hand.

If there is no coolant there it is not coming from the pump.

If you can see coolant then either the seal has been caught during assembly or the shaft is well worn.

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BEN! there is a good chance that the water is still from past infection of water. I have had to change it 2 times after initial fix and change. This of course was because I didnt notice it quickly...

the other possiblity is, have you or anyone messed with the HEAD? Because, there are 2 orings, they sit in grooves on the head, to seal the head to cylinder. and they are sized just enough they can wiggle out of the groove when you put head back on. there are tips to assembly to keep orings in place, if you need them we can repost but you probably find them in this VERY forum. So if one (seems to me inside one is more likely to "slip out of place) if it moved, you are going to have an compression blowing (VERY HARD maybe small quantity) its air, into the water jacket, including the water pump area. Seal on pump cant hold that compression power. so it pushes every time the engine turns over, more & more water into oil. it is an EASY fix if this is the case, but it is something you have to do very carefully.

but my first guess about your milky oil after you fix it, is leftover water/moisture in cases, and stuff. it doesnt take much to make oil foamy.

Hope that helps.

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BEN! there is a good chance that the water is still from past infection of water. I have had to change it 2 times after initial fix and change. This of course was because I didnt notice it quickly...

the other possiblity is, have you or anyone messed with the HEAD? Because, there are 2 orings, they sit in grooves on the head, to seal the head to cylinder. and they are sized just enough they can wiggle out of the groove when you put head back on. there are tips to assembly to keep orings in place, if you need them we can repost but you probably find them in this VERY forum. So if one (seems to me inside one is more likely to "slip out of place) if it moved, you are going to have an compression blowing (VERY HARD maybe small quantity) its air, into the water jacket, including the water pump area. Seal on pump cant hold that compression power. so it pushes every time the engine turns over, more & more water into oil. it is an EASY fix if this is the case, but it is something you have to do very carefully.

but my first guess about your milky oil after you fix it, is leftover water/moisture in cases, and stuff. it doesnt take much to make oil foamy.

Hope that helps.

Mitch, read the whole thread!

Yes, the top end has been off!

Next question to Ben, ARE YOU LOOSING COOLANT? I do not believe we have positively established this after the pump repair.

Next thought, if head gasket leak is suspected, run the bike with radiator cap off, fully topped with water, and inspect for unusual bubbles developing within the cooling system that continue to occur. This would be an indication, as well as abnormal pressurization of the coolant hoses after startup. But this may be difficult to tell by feel, as they are thick.

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right, ive checked the coolant and theres no loss there.

so it must be some of the contaminated oil left over that never came out, thats made it go white!

so now ill go and change it. :angry:

i am going to a trial today and do you think if its still abit white after ive changed it ,its ok to use in the trial?

thanks for all the great replies,

ben

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