Skip to content
View in the app

A better way to browse. Learn more.

Trials Central

A full-screen app on your home screen with push notifications, badges and more.

To install this app on iOS and iPadOS
  1. Tap the Share icon in Safari
  2. Scroll the menu and tap Add to Home Screen.
  3. Tap Add in the top-right corner.
To install this app on Android
  1. Tap the 3-dot menu (⋮) in the top-right corner of the browser.
  2. Tap Add to Home screen or Install app.
  3. Confirm by tapping Install.

Rear Tubeless Rim 36Hole For Suzuki Beamish

Featured Replies

I would like to convert the back wheel on my Beamish to tubeless.

Has anyone come across a 36 hole tubeless rear rim.

Don't mind if its the thick rubber band type that seals the spokes or the later flanged type.

New or decent second hand would be fine

Thanks

I think you will find most modern rims are ok, as most are 36 spoke, they do come up on ebay quite a lot, just be prepared to buy a wheel and scrap the hub.

TLTEL

  • Author

Cheers for that TLTEL, I thought the tubeless versions were all 32 hole, and the 36 hole were mainly tubed rims, but I'll dig deeper now with your info, thanks again.

earlier (pre 2002 approx) tubeless with the rubber ring were 36 hole and are now hard to get new but of course are available S/H from wreckers. The flanged ones are available in 36 hole but I can't remember where from

The flanged type are available from Talon, but they are hard to lace up to a twinshock hub due to the length of the split spokes. Hondas aren't so bad as the have straight pull spokes anyway, but all others with bends at the hub make it a difficult job. Only ever seen it done once, on a Fantic.

Be aware with the used wheels that they can suffer corrosion on the inside which can't be seen if there is a tyre fitted. I've had a couple with cracks too, but these can generally be repaired easily enough by welding.

  • Author

Thanks for all your replies, interesting point about the flange type concerning spokes, never considered that problem....

I will start looking around the breakers and see what's available

  • 2 weeks later...

The biggest issue I've had with the flanged rim is finding someone who can roll M4 threads onto spokes to match the threads in the nipples, the outer spokes are left hand thread so the nipples have both left & right hand threads in them.

I asked a company in the UK about the cost for a set to fit my TY & quickly dropped the idea after being quoted 200 pounds

  • 5 months later...

That will work but that's who said they could supply a spoke set to fit my TY for 200+ pounds, you may be lucky & spokes for yours could be cheaper

Nuetech TUbliss working great in my SWM. Cheaper than rebuilding a wheel with a used rim,more reliable than a rim strip.

Doug ;

Was it a pain to mount/seat ??? I've been thinking about one for my 240 forever now .... No matter what rim lock or tube brand , she hooks up so well my back tire always slips on the rim ... Seems I'm always breaking the tire down and rotating it back on the rim ...

Glenn

Doug ;

Was it a pain to mount/seat ??? I've been thinking about one for my 240 forever now .... No matter what rim lock or tube brand , she hooks up so well my back tire always slips on the rim ... Seems I'm always breaking the tire down and rotating it back on the rim ...

Glenn

Glenn are you sure it is the tyre that is moving? I had a tyre/wheel combo on one bike (KT250 I think) a few years ago that I tried different locks, and even put screws through the side of the rim to grip the tyre, but the tube stem kept leaning over during a ride no matter what. Because it still happened without the screws moving in the tyre bead, I figured it was actually just the tube creeping around inside the tyre. After that I got a lot less fanatical about rimlocks and have even been riding a twinshock for over a year now with no rimlocks or screws on the rear wheel - TY250D rim and Michelin X11 tubeless with a grooved rim bead seat.

Doug ;

Was it a pain to mount/seat ??? I've been thinking about one for my 240 forever now .... No matter what rim lock or tube brand , she hooks up so well my back tire always slips on the rim ... Seems I'm always breaking the tire down and rotating it back on the rim ...

Glenn

Easypeasy,comes with tool to help,good instructions.

I am not even very fastidious about maintaining the proper pressure,Been doing lots of riding setting up a Vintage Trials event and the SWM runs so quiet and smooth I just keep grabbing it and going,no tire issues.I would not choose to mess with any "Rim Strip" tubeless wheel over the Nuetech. I have not however had reason to dismount the tire yet so that procedure is of unknown complexity.

Did you start out with a new tire ? They mention rimlock imprints causing leaks . Doesn't really matter I've got another new mich for the 240 and I can put the used one on Tylers reflex . I may even lace up the spare OE Fantic rims I've got , to lose a little weight off the honda ... And the Section wants new tires too , the rock hard ones on it are not good for much of anything :)

Glenn

I can't recall if the tire was brand new,it may have been on a few weeks,but I'm not one to gronk down upon a rimlock,If you have a new Michy by all means put her on.With Multiple bikes you should really consider Dunlops in the future,much cheaper,Ryan says they're A-OK

Edited by htrdoug

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

Account

Navigation

Search

Search

Configure browser push notifications

Chrome (Android)
  1. Tap the lock icon next to the address bar.
  2. Tap Permissions → Notifications.
  3. Adjust your preference.
Chrome (Desktop)
  1. Click the padlock icon in the address bar.
  2. Select Site settings.
  3. Find Notifications and adjust your preference.