GLoved hand works, I used it on a guys sherco once, he was very gratefull!

LANYARD KILL SWITCH - get one, they work :D

If you can't get to the rear brake then glove the exhaust. At WOT it will die easier than the cork at idle. The kill switch will work as long as the spark plug is still a spark plug and not a glow plug. My favorite move is the clutch brake and kill switch combo. It happened to my buddies 2006 300 and 20 seconds of his panic and arguing with my direction cost him a new cylinder and barrel.

Here is a preventative tip. Zip or wire tie your throttle boot to the throttle and cable. Its less likely to pull off that way. Also make sure that the boot is on the cable at the top of the carb. If not then dirt gets in the slide and you stick there too. Also don't clip your punch card to the throttle cable. Checkers have caused my bike to run off as well. All from experience.

--Biff

The gloved hand works OK on 2 strokes. Be careful of doing this on a 4 stroke. I burned my hand on the end pipe of my 4RT earlier this year when loading up the bike at the end of the day after taking my gloves off.

I don't like to use wire or zip ties on the throttle cable. I put a small dab of silicone glue on the outer part of the throttle cable when I assemble. It is enough to keep the cable from backing out of the housing but not enough to prevent using the technique described by Mokwepa.

The gloved hand works OK on 2 strokes. Be careful of doing this on a 4 stroke. I burned my hand on the end pipe of my 4RT earlier this year when loading up the bike at the end of the day after taking my gloves off.

I don't like to use wire or zip ties on the throttle cable. I put a small dab of silicone glue on the outer part of the throttle cable when I assemble. It is enough to keep the cable from backing out of the housing but not enough to prevent using the technique described by Mokwepa.

The silicon tip sounds like a good one. Was not sure about the zip tie but if a small/thin one was used, I guess, when the brown stuff hits the fan, a small zip tie would break. I would gues that if the cable issue happened, it would be the carb side of the cable that might be the issue. On the throttle side, you should notice it and be able to sort it out fairly fast.

Thanks guys for all the insight. At least if it does happen, I/we have a few things to try. Good to be prepared.

I have not used one them tether things as yet, however I do set my throttle tube with a hard bar end carefully positioned to keep most dirt out and prevent a twist of the throttle in a normal fall and jamming of the tube.

Not sure anything here is foolproof, but every bit may help! Saved me a lot of torn grips anyway!

Edited May 21, 201412 yr by copemech

Well today I stopped a little boys ty80 from blowing up after he walked around about sh*ting himself

Not bad for 14 year old but then again my dad wouldn't let me ride a bike until I learnt how to turn it off when the throttle is stuck open

Use a leonelly magnetic kill lanyard switch... That wouldnt let the engine to rev up...!!

The magnetic kill switch is definitely the way to go.

It should be std; and be as important as 'one on the clutch and one on the brake'.

I know that pulling the choke on usually kills the engine when at idle, but not sure if would work for WOT? Never tried it.

In theory, putting the choke on should slow the engine. On carbs with a real choke it should work reasonably well. Many carbs are not real chokes that restrict the air flow, but rather just add more fuel so those would not be as likely to slow the over-revving engine.

On many trials bikes, getting to the choke lever is a challenge in itself. Doing that with a run-away engine could be really difficult but if that is the only choice, give it a try.