10 minutes ago, faussy said:

Good for you

But in fairness proper gb oil is the best option

Using whatever you are happy with is a personal choice. I like the clutch action from ATF, but it’s not for everyone!

Edited September 24, 20196 yr by suzuki250

9 minutes ago, suzuki250 said:

But in fairness proper gb oil is the best option, using whatever you are happy with is a personal choice

I like the clutch action from ATF, but it’s not for everyone!

Thats my point, most people i know who are using ATF are using it to fix clutch problems, and possibly (we will leave it at this) compromising other parts of their engine.

Fix your clutch the correct way, but as for clutch feel, thats personal opinion i guess. ATF makes a clutch too grabby for my liking

Id prefer a 0W oil than ATF

Edited September 24, 20196 yr by faussy

Hi Im sure GasGas put out a technical bulletin around 2010 ish recommending ATF?.. 

 It all depends on what terrain you ride. We ride large dry rocks, you need it to hit now! Most bike oil makes the Gasser lethargic. Different oil makes it progressive to the point it is too slow. But in the right terrain, (wet and muddy) it might be perfect.

don’t 2 strokes use the 2 stroke oil for main bearing lubrication /- gas gas may be different ?

flywheel side has no oil so must be 2 stroke oil? - clutch side  could be either I guess depending where main deal goes .

Do betas have a diaphragm clutch or multi plates 

 

Multi plates.  And I fix clutch drag  with shims and different springs. The ATF is for hooking up quicker. Or you could buy the Beta Racing clutch for crazy money.

http://www.gasgasuk.com/pro-clutch-information-march-06/

That was a great update for gassers. I always used atf, but that gm auto trac was really good and 3 times more expensive

 And I have always used ATF in my Betas since 1990.

Automatic transmissions run ball races, needle rollers and bushes and thrust bearings that all take a hell of bigger load than any bike engine will ever know. HGV Auto trans run with ATF...now there is a load....then theres the 4X4 SUV’s etc that most run auto trans. 

Straight 0w oil is for cold start up to ensure lube gets to the high areas but then when the oil gets to operating temperature it needs the next level of a multi-grade eg 0w 40 etc otherwise the oil will start to fail. 

Main bearings in 2T engines are nearly all lubed by the oil in the petrol mix. There are exceptions, Honda with their Enduro styled CRM used oilways from the gearbox to the main crankshaft bearings which needed seals on both sides of the bearings for obvious reasons, the disadvantages are that when the crankshaft bearing oils seals wear the oil from the box is drawn into the combustion process. This has the effect of lowering the octane rating of the fuel, smokey exhausts and rapidly diminishing gearbox oil! Additionally any metal particles from the gearbox might end up in the main bearing or restricting the oil way. This process used no pump so it was just gravity and the oil throw from the rotating gearbox components, so on very long uphill steep climbs the main bearings were left pretty much to their own devices i.e. marginal if any lube? Some vehicle gearboxes employ oil pumps to ensure adequate lubing, others use a type of guttering to catch the oil and direct it to (mostly) gears that by design were too high up to receive oil splash lubrication. 

All modern lubricating oils commercially available will contain detergents, part of the oils job is to lift and contain any contaminants and particles and then carry them to a filter element, guaze or pass over a magnetic trap/pickup for collection to keep the engine...gearbox free of damaging stuff. Thats a good reason why some riders change the gearbox oil very frequently possibly after each ride/event.

Take your pick?but the petro-chemists know best backed by research and testing.