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slowrider
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9 hours ago, slowrider said:

After looking at the outer cases, they are pretty hammered,

Pics. ?

Unless they are damaged beyond saving, you may be best off cleaning up the originals. Cracks can be welded. The primary case is usually thick enough to get away with a fair amount of filing/grinding. Failing this, as Bloomfield states it is the same as fitted to various other models.

Not so the mag. cover, which is quite thin and fragile in comparison - and probably also the reason that it's in very short supply. (you may be very lucky to find one that's any better than the one you have). It was also used on a smaller range of models - (for Sherpa range, 198/199 A & B models only)

HTH

Edited by lorenzo
Further info.
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They are made of good quality alloy and can be welded by a decent welder. Also if you are going to keep them original as in painted black, as opposed to polished, then you don't need them in as good a condition.

Edited by sherpa325
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Try Bultaco Classics/Hughs Bultaco in NY. It's been a long time but that's where I bought mine shop repair manual and parts break down book. The work shop manual will walk you through all repairs.

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Another question for the experts...Have read that I will need to line the plastic tank if I get a new one ? Understanding that the fiberglass does not hold up to our reformulated gas with alcohol they sell here in the states. It looks like the tank is plastic now and not fiberglass on the last gen bikes, is it still an issue ? also could I just use race gas instead? 

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Yeah they are notorious for being difficult; there is some info in this thread 

and probably many other older ones. It's been so long since I took mine apart that I can't remember much but I know it wasn't easy.

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11 hours ago, slowrider said:

Was told this year should have straight tubes but mine have a taper on the end, are they interchangeable? 

bull fork tubes.jpg

 

The taper referred to is at the top of the tube where it slides into the top yoke, what you see in the picture is normal for the bottom of the tube. 

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On 1/21/2022 at 10:42 PM, slowrider said:

So whats the trick to removing the swing arm bolt? What a nightmare!

If it's properly seized into the the inner bushes you'll have two options to remove it. Engine needs to be removed.

Cut through the spindle each end of the swingarm, either with a disc cutter or a saw - obviously you have to be careful to avoid damaging the frame and arm. You can cut through the actual bush to keep away from the frame as they are going to be scrap anyway.  Or you can drill dead centre each end of the spindle to depth that takes it inside of the frame and to a diameter just short of the spindle diameter. Now the spindle is 'hollow' a good tap with a hide mallet will break the spindle and the arm is out.  Or you can just keep enlarging the drill diameter until the arm just falls out when you've drilled it away to just inside the frame

Now you can cut the spindle either side of the engine mount.The spindle rarely seizes in the engine mount and hopefully just slides out. If not you might need a press or more drilling

Now you have the swingarm free. Usually it is just the spindle seized in the inner bush that's the problem so the inner bushes should slide out of the outers with no problem, or they can at least be drifted out if stuck. To remove the outer bronze bushes, saw through the length of them on the inside on opposite sides so that they collapse and either fall or tap out. Again, you have to be carefull not to cut into the arm. Pressing them out can be difficult and can distort the arm

 

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Woody,

Was thinking the same thing, still working it, also any idea of how to get the wheel bearing out? Another PITA that is giving me trouble, got the seals off and applied heat but still no luck.

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