peterh

The drain flap is a bit of rigid type of plastic, and it is not a tight seal ( a bit like a reed valve), so water usually flows out or seeps out. But caked on mud can make it seal closed. Best thing is to remove rear guard with the airbox and check your drain flap. Also, as in suggestion in your other post, it is wise to separate the airbox from the rear guard/fender and reseal as the factory needs to use a bit more sealant to stop ingress of mud and water flicked up from the rear wheel.

There is a drain flap at the bottom of the airbox, which can get caked up with mud etc and thus stops it draining. If you get a look at a parts diagram, it is part no 02014TR100.

Isn't it a compression type gasket between the exhaust header flange and the exhaust port? It doesn't fit over the exhaust pipe. I have also used some exhaust gasket sealer for added confidence of a seal.

No-Toil for me too. And because it is easy and clean to use, you will likely clean the air filter more often than putting the job off. Letting the filter soak in the cleaner mix overnight restores the filter to Original look.

I found a suitable size plastic top of a bottle, cut it off to a suitable length and used that to push up the bash plate hole and then undo the sump plug. Required the hole and plug to line up nicely though. Worked well to stop oil flow in that gap between engine and baseplate.

I did a few years back, but stopped using it for trials. Great 2-stroke smell 😀, no sticking of rings (the usual comment with castor based oils of old) but with a Flash Point of 214°C ( by memory) I got perhaps got too much oil spread in muffler. Most noticeable was a hard carbon layer in exhaust header that I hadn't had with other oils and haven't since and really hard carbon on piston dome. Maybe some circumstantial evidence but didn't seem to work for me. Oh, and the most important thing was that it didn't keep my feet up better or me to win more trials. My thoughts, best left to the high revving performance engines, not trials.

Domino make a throttle body with a variable opening using a screw to restrict full throttle. Splatshop have a picture of one. I have one for use when starting a new or tentative rider. Also here is a blog of a DIY modification https://thehellteam.blog/2018/10/30/making-a-restriction-for-the-domino-throttle/

65-70kg (summer-winter ☺), so yes, a bit of a light weight.

A bit late in my response, but maybe my thoughts may still be relevant. I have a 2018 TRS RR 125 and love it. I had previously had 125, 200 & 250s and love how nimble the TRS 125 feels. Sure, I had to adapt to using a little more revs and holding the throttle on that little bit longer when going up and over but riding the 125 really makes getting your riding technique as best as can be as can't rely on the throttle. I have fitted Boyesen Carbontech Reeds (CTT123) and ended up just leaving the jetting the same (we ride no more than 300m above sea level here in Western Australia) - I have fitted Boyesen reeds to all my most recent trials bikes (125, 200 and 250s) and I have found that they do seem to smooth the power and improve low down power and torque - but I am also a rider that is not a heavy twister of the throttle and prefer to plug away with control. To me, my TRS RR has sufficient torque and grunt and no problem using 2nd gear for much of my riding. I too would look forward to riding a 2021 TRS 125 and compare.

Nhuskys comments on ease of starting, feeling of lightness (less flywheel effect) and the importance of, and thus the improvement gained, in riding technique are spot on. I have a 2018 TRS RR 125 and have added Boyesen carbontech reeds and very happy with my TRS. Currently a slight issue with selector spring mechanism for 1st & neutral but the 2019 and above 125s have the new style gear selector mechanism enjoyed by the change in 2018 for the 250 and above bikes.

Certainly no oil filter. Keep up to date through www.jotagas.com and your local dealers https://jotagas.com/dealers?lang=en Enjoy - i have had 2014 and 2015 Jotagas - my preference was the 2014.

My 2018 TRS RR 125 (with Reiger shock) had no slop when new, and remains great after regreasing and re-torqueing when i serviced linkages etc. after 12 months. Much better than other bikes i have had (but have not had a 4RT).

Have a look at beta-uk https://www.beta-uk.com/index.php/all-bikes/previous-models/pre-trial/2008-models they have a link to keihin carb settings. A good place to start. Happy New Year.

Normal, if batteries are coming close to full charge, just before the green light on charger comes on to show full charge.

Hi, I have used a 927 castor oil and here are my thoughts. I was using 80:1 in a 98 Octane petrol Smells great - brings back memories and of course is environmentally friendly being a castor oil.Is promoted for a high performance 2-strokes and doesn't suffer the old problems of sticking up rings etc. But is a trials engine a high performance 2-stroke engine? We all like to think the rider is a high performance rider but do we put the engine to the same high performance requirements of motocross or karts. Advantages: smells great (for those waiting in line behind you waiting to ride a section) - might put them in 2-stroke heaven or higher and then they muck up their ride - as long as they do not float through. those using mineral based or fully synthetics won't be able to "borrow" your pre-mix as strongly recommended not to mix castor with others I was happy that I thought it helped ignition and consistency of idle - or at least there was no detrimental effect. Disadvantages: You won't be able to use your fellow riders mineral or synthetic premix if you just need that little extra to complete the next lap of the trial. While I found that initially e.g 3 months, I could still see the arrow and size of my piston with a bore scope but after 6 months or so that disappeared and when I did have to take the barrel off the piston (for another reason) the piston dome and compression insert were caked with a really hard carbon which took a lot of soaking and gentle plastic card easing to decoke my piston dome and compression insert. There was also a lot of really hard caked carbon build up in the exhaust header - took a good amount of heat (butane gun - didn't have oxy-acetylene) and a wire rope abrasion inside to decoke the header (titanium header pipe) Not sure whether it was the 927 or I did not change my muffler packing often enough but when I did it was more oily than I had experienced previously - always having used 80:1 ratio 927 has a high Flash Point temperature - 218°C - might mean less oil burnt off in a trials bike i.e more spread through header, mid-section and muffler I changed back to a fully synthetic with a much lower Flashpoint. Last clean of piston crown and compression insert was a very easy clean. Will see what transpires with the muffler packing in the next 6 months. Those are just my thoughts and experiences. A good link here: http://www.dragonfly75.com/motorbike/oil.html