peterh

The drain flap is a bit of rigid type of plastic, and it is not a tight seal ( a bit like a reed valve), so water usually flows out or seeps out. But caked on mud can make it seal closed. Best thing is to remove rear guard with the airbox and check your drain flap. Also, as in suggestion in your other post, it is wise to separate the airbox from the rear guard/fender and reseal as the factory needs to use a bit more sealant to stop ingress of mud and water flicked up from the rear wheel.

There is a drain flap at the bottom of the airbox, which can get caked up with mud etc and thus stops it draining. If you get a look at a parts diagram, it is part no 02014TR100.

Isn't it a compression type gasket between the exhaust header flange and the exhaust port? It doesn't fit over the exhaust pipe. I have also used some exhaust gasket sealer for added confidence of a seal.

No-Toil for me too. And because it is easy and clean to use, you will likely clean the air filter more often than putting the job off. Letting the filter soak in the cleaner mix overnight restores the filter to Original look.

I found a suitable size plastic top of a bottle, cut it off to a suitable length and used that to push up the bash plate hole and then undo the sump plug. Required the hole and plug to line up nicely though. Worked well to stop oil flow in that gap between engine and baseplate.

I did a few years back, but stopped using it for trials. Great 2-stroke smell 😀, no sticking of rings (the usual comment with castor based oils of old) but with a Flash Point of 214°C ( by memory) I got perhaps got too much oil spread in muffler. Most noticeable was a hard carbon layer in exhaust header that I hadn't had with other oils and haven't since and really hard carbon on piston dome. Maybe some circumstantial evidence but didn't seem to work for me. Oh, and the most important thing was that it didn't keep my feet up better or me to win more trials. My thoughts, best left to the high revving performance engines, not trials.

Domino make a throttle body with a variable opening using a screw to restrict full throttle. Splatshop have a picture of one. I have one for use when starting a new or tentative rider. Also here is a blog of a DIY modification https://thehellteam.blog/2018/10/30/making-a-restriction-for-the-domino-throttle/

65-70kg (summer-winter ☺), so yes, a bit of a light weight.

A bit late in my response, but maybe my thoughts may still be relevant. I have a 2018 TRS RR 125 and love it. I had previously had 125, 200 & 250s and love how nimble the TRS 125 feels. Sure, I had to adapt to using a little more revs and holding the throttle on that little bit longer when going up and over but riding the 125 really makes getting your riding technique as best as can be as can't rely on the throttle. I have fitted Boyesen Carbontech Reeds (CTT123) and ended up just leaving the jetting the same (we ride no more than 300m above sea level here in Western Australia) - I have fitted Boyesen reeds to all my most recent trials bikes (125, 200 and 250s) and I have found that they do seem to smooth the power and improve low down power and torque - but I am also a rider that is not a heavy twister of the throttle and prefer to plug away with control. To me, my TRS RR has sufficient torque and grunt and no problem using 2nd gear for much of my riding. I too would look forward to riding a 2021 TRS 125 and compare.

Nhuskys comments on ease of starting, feeling of lightness (less flywheel effect) and the importance of, and thus the improvement gained, in riding technique are spot on. I have a 2018 TRS RR 125 and have added Boyesen carbontech reeds and very happy with my TRS. Currently a slight issue with selector spring mechanism for 1st & neutral but the 2019 and above 125s have the new style gear selector mechanism enjoyed by the change in 2018 for the 250 and above bikes.

Certainly no oil filter. Keep up to date through www.jotagas.com and your local dealers https://jotagas.com/dealers?lang=en Enjoy - i have had 2014 and 2015 Jotagas - my preference was the 2014.

My 2018 TRS RR 125 (with Reiger shock) had no slop when new, and remains great after regreasing and re-torqueing when i serviced linkages etc. after 12 months. Much better than other bikes i have had (but have not had a 4RT).

Have a look at beta-uk https://www.beta-uk.com/index.php/all-bikes/previous-models/pre-trial/2008-models they have a link to keihin carb settings. A good place to start. Happy New Year.

Normal, if batteries are coming close to full charge, just before the green light on charger comes on to show full charge.

Hi, I have used a 927 castor oil and here are my thoughts. I was using 80:1 in a 98 Octane petrol Smells great - brings back memories and of course is environmentally friendly being a castor oil.Is promoted for a high performance 2-strokes and doesn't suffer the old problems of sticking up rings etc. But is a trials engine a high performance 2-stroke engine? We all like to think the rider is a high performance rider but do we put the engine to the same high performance requirements of motocross or karts. Advantages: smells great (for those waiting in line behind you waiting to ride a section) - might put them in 2-stroke heaven or higher and then they muck up their ride - as long as they do not float through. those using mineral based or fully synthetics won't be able to "borrow" your pre-mix as strongly recommended not to mix castor with others I was happy that I thought it helped ignition and consistency of idle - or at least there was no detrimental effect. Disadvantages: You won't be able to use your fellow riders mineral or synthetic premix if you just need that little extra to complete the next lap of the trial. While I found that initially e.g 3 months, I could still see the arrow and size of my piston with a bore scope but after 6 months or so that disappeared and when I did have to take the barrel off the piston (for another reason) the piston dome and compression insert were caked with a really hard carbon which took a lot of soaking and gentle plastic card easing to decoke my piston dome and compression insert. There was also a lot of really hard caked carbon build up in the exhaust header - took a good amount of heat (butane gun - didn't have oxy-acetylene) and a wire rope abrasion inside to decoke the header (titanium header pipe) Not sure whether it was the 927 or I did not change my muffler packing often enough but when I did it was more oily than I had experienced previously - always having used 80:1 ratio 927 has a high Flash Point temperature - 218°C - might mean less oil burnt off in a trials bike i.e more spread through header, mid-section and muffler I changed back to a fully synthetic with a much lower Flashpoint. Last clean of piston crown and compression insert was a very easy clean. Will see what transpires with the muffler packing in the next 6 months. Those are just my thoughts and experiences. A good link here: http://www.dragonfly75.com/motorbike/oil.html

With regard Fork Oils - there is a very good website explaining lots of things to think about here: http://www.peterverdone.com/wiki/index.php?title=Suspension_Fluid and further down the page http://www.peterverdone.com/wiki/index.php?title=Suspension_Fluid#Viscosity_Index While it has been around a long time - the information is still relevant. I have then condensed that to commonly known or available names and oil weights (downunder in Australia at least - or known through trials sites). - see the attached PDF file that I have compiled. It appears that just because it says 5W doesn't mean that the oil has the same viscosity and viscosity index (the stability of the viscosity with temperature change) as every other labelled 5W oil. I have been using Motul 2.5W fork oil in my 2015 Jotagas and people are amazed that I am using 2.5W but but but - it is still a heavier viscosity at 40°C than what Tech Forks recommend - OJ Racing Fork Oil Type 01 - which I can't easily find "downunder". Given that Castrol 5W Fork oil is available easily at my local Supercheap motor shop, then I might just change to that - and cheaper than some others. Please note that while ATF has been mentioned as a possibility that ATF while being very well controlled in its viscosity ratings is a higher viscosity e.g 33 centistrokes (or mm/s2) at 40°C and about 7 at 100°C. Just note that I am not an expert at oils but have taken an interest what it all (oil) means and these are just my thoughts. For a Beta 80 I would be going to the lighter viscosity oils. Fork Oil comparisons.pdf

My experience is that at age 11 get her a go on an oset 20 to try out even if to just to get the response "dad, can i have another go". No having to deal with kick starting, hot exhausts, no u se etc.. Can be dialed down to walking pace and has brakes that she may be used to from cycling. The likely smile on the face will be what you want to see. I have an Oset 20 as one of my come and try bikes that i use even for small adults to have a go on. No one has ever said "i didn't enjoy that". See whether you can find someone or a club that can help you try as a trip downunder might not fit the budget to try. Also, better to be too big on a small bike than too small for a big bike. Have fun.

I thought that was normal expectation of the mother-in-law and that was just to be allowed to keep her daughter for each of many years, let alone a good looking TY250, which was the exact bike i had during our courtship. Well done on the restoration.

My experience was no, for both the 2014 and 2015 Jotagas 250. Admittedly i have fitted Boyesen reeds in both bikes and for the 2015 model changed to an OKO 26mm carb as documented in the pages of this forum.

Perhaps an air leak in the carby manifold that you 'fixed' when you took the reed block off and redid and tightened? As you say - go and enjoy the ride.

I have taken a bit of interest in transmission oils and the potential influence on clutch action, cold grab, lightness and/or aggressiveness and then related those to viscosity and viscosity index while also respecting lubrication of other rather important parts and bearings. I have tried different oils and listened and read of others experiences and 'gospels'. I have constructed a spreadsheet and sorted by viscosity at 40°C (see pdf attached) from manufacturers specifications (some are hard to track down) and then found a website (see the link on the 2nd page of attached pdf) where you can plot the change in viscosity with temperature - with pictures put into the pdf. Another link on the 1st page of the pdf explains Viscosity Index and it seems to me that for trials where great variations in speed, load and temperature exist perhaps a high Viscosity Index (VI) oil would be appropriate to maintain the optimum viscosity (if we even have any idea what that would be). For my style of riding (no instantaneous huge splat walls) I like progressive and light clutch action in my 2015 Jotagas 250 and I like to change my oil every 10 hours, so I also like to look at price comparisons for similar viscosities and viscosity index. Of course there is no perfect answer as we are all different in our riding ideals but maybe this sheet might give you something more to ponder and try. There are oils on the list that may not be available where you are, in the same way some on the list I cannot get downunder and haven't tried them. If interested, I use Chief Oil's - Mohican ATF Dexron III (and buy 4L for less than the price of 1L of some other oils on the list). But I am no oil expert and none of the above is validated for viscosities and temperature and thus it is all just my thoughts and experiences and certainly not challenging the manufacturers - or the oil experts. So whatever works and is available for you, works for you; in the same way that what I use and have available works for me. Gear Oil comparisons.pdf

Growzer - being in australia, you could look at tyre downs for off road bikes http://kyaracing.com.au/off_road_tyre_down.htm. won inventors of the year sometime back. I have used these for last 8 years and very easy to use, very stable and keep clean.

I have taken a bit of interest in transmission oils and the potential influence on clutch action, cold grab, lightness and/or aggressiveness and then related those to viscosity and viscosity index while also respecting lubrication of other rather important parts and bearings. I have tried different oils and listened and read of others experiences and 'gospels'. I have constructed a spreadsheet and sorted by viscosity at 40°C (see pdf attached) from manufacturers specifications (some are hard to track down) and then found a website (see the link on the attached pdf) where you can plot the change in viscosity with temperature - with pics put into the pdf. Another link on the pdf explains Viscosity Index and it seems to me that for trials where great variations in speed, load and temperature exist perhaps a high Viscosity Index (VI) oil would be appropriate to maintain the optimum viscosity (if we even have any idea what that would be). For my style of riding (no instantaneous huge splat walls) I like progressive and light clutch action and I like to change my oil every 10 hours, so I also like to look at price comparisons for similar viscosities and viscosity index. Of course there is no perfect answer as we are all different in our riding ideals but maybe this sheet might give you something more to ponder and try. There are oils on the list that may not be available where you are, in the same way some on the list I cannot get downunder and haven't tried them. If interested, I use Chief Oil's - Mohican ATF Dexron III (and buy 4L for less than the price of 1L of some other oils on the list). But I am no oil expert and none of the above is validated for viscosities and temperature and thus it is all just my thoughts and experiences and certainly not challenging the manufacturers - or the oil experts. So whatever works and is available for you, works for you; in the same way that what I use and have available works for me. Gear Oil comparisons.pdf

To close off and thank for suggestions, I have settled on 45 pilot and 125 main with needle clip on 4th groove down - for sealevel and daytime temps ~20°C (autumn in Western Australia). Air Screw is 1 turn out. Runs crisp and clean throughout throttle range.

I have fitted boyesen dual stage reeds to 2010 Evo 125, a 2012 Evo 200 and my 2014 and 2015 Jotagas 250. I haven't used the carbon reeds so cannot compare. Once jetting is optimised (and yes had optimised settings of the carbys with standard reeds before i decided to change), i have found that on all 4 bikes that, in my opinion, there is better stable idle and off idle, an improvement in ability to pull smoothly from low down but also a crisper response throughout the range. By reading the boyesen material the dual stage suit my riding. I dont do splat walls that maybe the carbon reeds would give better top end but i relish the smooth, slow climb, turn and then double blips up and over logs, rocks etc. I think the bike that benefitted by the boyesen reeds most noticeably was the Evo 125, it seemed to give the 125 a lot more low down pull and smooth uptake rather than just have to rev the 125. I admit that with the 2015 jotagas i also changed the dellorto to a oko 26mm and a 5mm inlet manifold spacer at the same time as putting in the boyesens, so cannot be sure what the single effect of the boyesens were on that bike.