timdog

4 stroke trials are very much love or hate. Some take to them very well some don't. You really need time to tell if its right for you, the riding technique is different. Unfortunately when you first stsrt it's hard enough without having to consider diff engine types. I love 4 strokes, pre 65 twinshock and modern. Actually prefer the beta 4t. But have reverted to 2 stroke TRS one R for modern bike as frankly it's lighter feeling to ride at 60. Fantastic bike. My brother in law started riding at 62 and bought a 200 beta as everyone recommends them as the perfect clubman bike. But.. 3 months in he tried a 250 DL vertigo i had which is a very smooth engine, he was immediately much more at ease and confident on that so bought it. It has never been "too much" for him Definetely avoid a 300. Condition is important so, depending on how much you want to spend, check out what's available but with plenty of clubs and events around go talk to riders and usually someone will let you try a bike to see how it feels.

The three controls basically limit the power. Can't remember the order, which was which but easy to figure out 1 limits top speed so you can set it 2 Throttle sensitivity, how quick throttle responds as turn it 3 power, so can you alter max available power to prolong battery life. Suspension adjustments are very limited, basically like cycle forks. Years since my lad had one but made suspension slightly softer/firmer

Classic bike prices went high at end of lockdown but market very slow now. I wouldn't describe many bikes now as an actual investment. So depends if you're looking for bike to keep, ride, progress on etc.

P.S. Re your other post i've never hsd an issue with stalling the TRS or any trials bike.. Well i have but that is rider error not the bike

I found the RR a bit to lively with fast throttle, for my skills and NEast conditions. Much better with slow although I'm sure some folk will say just needs finer throttle/cluth control. The R is no slouch mind, don't think that it is docile, but you can still have fast or slow throttles. More than enough for most mortals. I've had a 250 beta and it's capable of way more than I am but i feel better on the TRS. Would definitely have another. Personally i don't like a 125, again they are capable of way more than i can do but i prefer the low end of a 250. Might not NEED a 250 but much prefer the power delivery. Don't know if you have the chance but always good to try and have a ride on someone's first.

If it's any use, i had a RR in 2018. I'm an easy course over 50s The bike was excellent, brakes stearing suspension and an engine i would describe as more lively than a beta but manageable, with slow throttle for my lack of ability. I went back to 4 stroke and twinshock but recently bought a 250 R. Love it, still has the great brakes and suspension, plenty of power but very smooth delivery, front end feels light but not overly so. Perfect bike for me. I'm not into hoping zapping flicking etc but the bike will will do it easily, as a friend demonstrated. I guess if i was wanting to progress to harder stuff I might go for the RR as, why not? But feel the R is a bit like Beta making the 300 Supersoft i.e tuned for our weather and conditions rather than continental dry big rocks.

Is the beta a standard or factory. The 250 rr trs is more lively than the standard beta, but has noticeably better brakes suspension and clutch. I' ve had both and currently have a trs 250 r (not rr) that, in my opinion is the best modern bike, I have ridden. Suits me and my lack of abi!ity perfectly

Only Beta gripe i really had was sticking clutch. After standing, the clutch can bind when first started, so be prepared to put it in gear and have the bike try to shoot forward. Before starting pop it in 3rd or 4th and rock backwards/forwards with clutch in. If that doesn't work just pull away in1st with clutch in a after a few seconds it will release. V common problem re plates sticking together. There is a clutch fix involving removing the plates to clean up the edges. Other than that never had any reliability issues if keep it maintained.

Another option re exhaust. If you really want to replace system with an alloy one great, however this is what I have, bike runs and rides very well with it, also sounds lovely but still quiet Just a matter of cutting rear silencer where it thins to pass shock, then having exit pipe welded. Cheap and effective.

My Amal 622 has No.4 slide 140 main 105 needle and 25 pilot. Best thing i did was a rebore to 280cc with a triumph piston. Revs v well and almost eliminated the stutter off idle unless gave it too big a handful. Slides/body can get worn as i believe they were made of same metal and 2 metals the same will wear out quicker. Amal make hardened slides now Think jets are same for the Amal monobloc carb

Brilliant fun bike, use it as it is and enjoy. Plenty of easy and fairly inexpensive mods to make engine better. Trials specific cdi, high lift camshaft.

My understanding is, when you manually open the tap it's just that, open. Once started you move it to the solenoid operating position, the reason is if it's permanently open and you drop the bike or lie it down then fuel can leak into cylinder past rings and contaminate the oil. So solenoid switches it off. Never completely understood as it restarts from that position You could leave it on or even do away with it altogether but it means taking that risk. They aren't cheap!

Couldnt attach image to message so here's pic of short lever on my tlr

Pm sent

In UK? Any of the ones advertised by likes of inmotion trials or for a shorter one, which i prefer for the reach, dab products. Just fit straight onto the shaft