sherpa325

It definitely looks like a !99A frame. The stamping of numbers on the frames can be pretty random, but after the numbers there is a horizontal stroke and then the A, the same as the engine. It could be faint and hidden by the undercoat and paint.

The PHBH is a larger version of the PHBL. The PHBL is a small body carb used on trials bikes to save space, with a maximum bore size of 26mm whereas the PHBH goes from 26mm to 30mm and I think your cota would be a 26mm. I wouldn't think there would be any gain going from 26 PHBH to a 26 PHBL. The Keihin is a Flatslide 28mm and will give you more topend power if that is what you are chasing and they are pretty much standard on most newer bikes, but there is nothing wrong with a Dellorto.

All front wheels from 1972 [M91 M92] are the same. The magnetos for the 250 and 350 will both fit but the 350 is a fair bit heavier. The exhausts are very similar and can be made to fit if you are handy with an oxy torch and your rear muffler is what is called a 'clubfoot'.

The couple of books I have at home say the first Sherpa T was based on the Millers modified Sherpa N. It's hard to find any information on the Sherpa N or the Matador, so it is difficult to work out what differences there are in those two models.

As these model bikes are really scarce here in Australia, I was always under the impression that the first Sherpa T was derived from the Sherpa N but it also appears that the Matador has a very similar model number M4 vs M4-1. I was wondering whether they both shared the same frame with some minor variations, brackets etc. If anyone could shed some light it would be greatly appreciated. Thanks Greg

Try a new condenser, notorious for giving a spark when turned over by hand but break down under load

I'm pretty sure there were two 'clips' that held the wiring in place. One was mounted on the taillight and guided the wires to the side and the other one was on the guard mounting bolt. There was also a hole a head of the mounting bolt with a rubber grommet for the wires to exit.

Thanks for that!

Talking to a couple of mates and we have no idea what the horizontal 'flat surface' on the engine case is there for. It's not on the earlier round case models, any ideas??

On seconds thoughts, you wouldn't have been on there yesterday either

A day ago you would have been on that list Brt650

Mine started to increase in length and then I realised, after some research, that the fuel I was using had ethanol in it, although it wasn't advertised. I started to used ethanol free fuel and surprisingly it went back to its original dimensions.

You can get a 9 tooth front sprocket, not sure whether yours would have a 10 or 11 as standard. As I said before there is not one modification that that will magically make the bike super easy to ride. These bikes are meant to be ridden on the clutch all the time and riders that are new to this style really do struggle to adapt. You have to learn to cover the clutch with one finger at all times, in other words you never ride the bike without your finger on the clutch. As soon as you start to get out of control you pull the clutch in and moderate the power going to the back wheel, it does take some time to adapt, but once you do you'll feel much more comfortable.

There is no one modification that will make the bike easier/tamer to ride. They all make an improvement to ride ability. I would start with the cheapest and easiest, slow throttle, gear it down one on the countershaft. Low compression head makes it easier to start and less drama with fuel, larger base gasket is also a cheap mod and the flywheel weight also helps. A mate of mine who was having difficulty in transitioning from a 325 Bultaco to a 250 gasgas and having to get used to using the clutch eventually did the mods and the bike was so easy to ride, very predictable and still plenty of top end for the sections he was riding.

Yes the two stroke 250 [tyz engine]