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From a site that sells that expensive lubricant: "ELF HTX 740 is a monograde ultra fluid transmission lubricant specially developed for dry clutch gearboxes coupled to 2-stroke engines. " I would try something cheaper that you can change out every time you get water in it, nothing will make your wet clutch act up and make noise as bad as having water in the oil. It's not the steels that are causing a problem it's your cork and/or paper friction plates.

Morning, I’m looking for some help with my Montesa 301 RR 2022 clutch. I’ve had issues with the clutch since purchase a year ago. It’s progressively got worse with juddering, shrieking when hot and now a grinding sound under engine breaking. Ive changed the plates out for Mitani Alluminium discs, fresh HTX 740 and it hasn’t improved or changed at all. Any advice would be much appreciated.

72.1kg tank full of gas. Dry weight 70.3 kg

Thank you! The problem is we don’t plant to keep it. And because we paid so much for it, adding even more for diagnostics is not reasonable at this point.

Highly recommend you have it looked at by somebody that understands and can troubleshoot the electrics.

Hello! I was directed here by Google, sorry if it’s the wrong place to ask the question! I have an Oset bike, 24 Senior, we bought it in July 2020. It was used a few times only and then its engine was stuck, gave out some u happy smoke and my husband had to literally carry it home. 🫣 Since then we had it in storage, it looks fine otherwise and because nobody’s going to use it we thought of selling it for spares. Is it a viable idea or…? Thank you!

Some titanium bolts

Iris chain instead of the DID, saving 130g. S3 T41 sprocket for the look, replacing the solid red T42, and titanium bolts. 250g lighter today. We're getting closer to 70kg...

I have a spare tube type rim I can use, a better long-term solution for sure.

Machining of a 7075 aluminum (Zicral or Ergal) swingarm pivot. The nuts are grade 5 titanium, M14x1.50. Around 110 grams lighter and a beautiful finish.

Thanks. I found brake pads, and the seals look OK to reuse. I’m going to try to design/3d print dust covers which may or may not work, but if I keep everything clean, I should be able to get some more life out of this. Sam

It's also possible to re-lace the wheel with the correct type of rim 🤓 I give that solution about 100% more likely to work.

Sounds like it would do the trick, I'll give it a try - thank you!

Yes, flattening the ID. I also increase the ID slightly

Hello Chaps, 20 years on AI or eeeehhhhh iiiiiiiiiiii - up north. Cinco de Mayo 2026, The shirt still fits. Cheers Chaps,Motosinge83,

Interesting, thank you. So it's possible to grind the beads to a different shape? I assume that means flattening its inside diameter?

Sounds like a tube type rim with a tubeless type tyre. The sealing beads on a tubeless tyre have nothing to hold them onto the bead seats of a tube type rim and their shape actively pushes the bead off the bead seat. There are lots of options if this is your situation. Tubeless rim Tubliss device Tube type tyre Reshape the beads on your tubeless tyre

I forgot about this bike and it’s great to see the progress. The black scheme is awesome!

After more than a year, It's time to work on this bike! Meanwhile, the motorcycle was assembled and stored with Morad wheels in poor condition and a Showa fork. The shock absorber needed servicing, etc. So, I installed a machined top triple clamp from the HRC Repsol kit. New Tech gold forks, fresh DID wheels, new Galfer discs, new S3 black handlebars, all new Braktec front brake and clutch, carbon fork guards and swingarm. And a restored Showa absorber with stiffer grey spring. The entire chassis is new or overhauled. To do: Some titanium bolts and welding on my Future flat tank. The engine still needs to be opened up.

Here is a bad picture of the rear brake on a 2001 Rev3. If I recall correctly it did not match the front caliper. It did work very very well.

Hello. rare and rocking horse category. If you fancy looking for an alternative then the beta REV3 had a twin pot rear caliper that consisted of a mounting bracket that held , I think a strandard FRONT AJP Twin pot caliper of which there are spares and possibly new AJP calipers currently avalable. Also NEW calipers are available from BRAKTEC made in Spain that should fit the REV3 bracket as they have the same dimensions as the AJP caliper, These bits MAY fit , I AM NOT SAYING THEY DO FIT. Might be worth a look. Regards Alan.

Wow - I think you got it! Lucky me - the PO replaced the relatively uncommon rear brake with an even *more* uncommon one. 🙂 now, where to find seals…and a new rear disc too. Knowing what it came off of might help a lot - thanks! sam

@SamStoney BETA SYNT 1994.

Exit the original footpegs, replaced with a wider, almost contemporary (around '97) model from the Climber. Blasting and a fresh coat of paint on the levers and brake pedal. Adjustment of the fork height in the triple clamps. A short ride in the garden to get a feel for the bike and continue bedding in the brakes. The riding position is pretty good after the final adjustments. Steering angle is very good. The weight distribution puts a bit of weight on the front. It's a bike that feels quite "glued to the ground," even though it can be moved around. The fuel mixture is a little rich at low revs.

Does anyone have any info on frames made for Bantams by Paul? Munslow