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Thank you, that’s great advice. It’s a GasGas I am looking at so might think carefully!

Depends on the bike, 300 SS Beta is probably ok, 300 Gas Gas probably not unless detuned.

I have a 2016 Evo with the electronic petcock. I am getting no flow when turning the manual override lever. When I try kicking nothing dribbles out either. I need to pull the petcock to investigate. Is there another way to get the petcock open so I can drain the tank? I could try a hand pump to siphon out the gas but suspect there will still be a lot of gas flowing out when I remove the mounting bolt. Is there a cleanish way to do this? The odd thing is that the initial symptom was hard starting when cold or hot. The bike ran fine once started but I did start to get occasional odd noises in the exhaust. I adjusted the valves and cleaned the carb but when trying to start discovered this no flow issue.

Hi, so I am an absolute beginner but I don’t think it’s me, I struggle to find Neutral to the point that I sometimes use my hand I also feel like I have clutch drag and wonder if I should replace the clutch with a Mitani ? I have changed the gearbox oil with the correct Elf oil and silkoline for engine both were Dark

This should work with a high impedance input from PIN22. I'll build it in the coming days and see if it is a viable solution. Cheers... Paul

Excellent! Thank you konrad. OK, I can drive a suitable transistor with that to turn on the "spare" warning light on the OE dashboard. Am I correct to assume the 5V is relative to the ECU ground on PIN10? It seems almost as if the ECU manufacturer didn't finish the job, or tried to save a bit of cost by removing the internal MIL lamp driver. Thanks again. Cheers... Paul

From my notes... There is a symbol on the initial 2011 wiring diagram called "Testigo Averia". That translates as “Fault Witness”. I called it the CEL (Check Engine Light) in my notebook. Another name is the MIL (Malfunction Indicator Lamp). Looks like OSSA made it part of an instrument panel in the 2014 wiring diagram. Reverse engineered it a bit. It sources 5 volts at only 5 mA, so not too useful to drive a lamp. Even an LED is pretty dim. But, you could easily read it with a voltmeter. If your bike does not start, see if ECU pin 22 is at 5 volts (with the bike powered by a battery). This would indicate the ECU thinks there is a problem, versus the bike just being recalcitrant. Wiring diagrams are here: https://www.ossa-efi.com/home/electrics/wiring-diagrams

Cheers, typical of me to buy problems! 🙄

Thanks Alan. Really appreciate it

Hi all, I’m asking for some advice please. I had a go at trials yesterday having been off bikes for nearly 20 years. I had a go on a 250 and did well on a yellow flag course. The guys said I would be good to have a go at a club trial. I enjoyed the 250 and found it very manageable. Looking for a bike now and can see a good deal on a 300. is there much difference between a 250 and 300? I worry if I buy a 250, I’ll want to upgrade to a 300 but at the same time, while I got on well, o don’t want to be cocky and buy a bike that might be too much for a beginner. any advice would be welcome. Thank you

Hello people, I'm tidying up a few wiring issues inherited from previous owners and I've hit an issue without an obvious solution. Can anyone tell me what the MIL wire from PIN22 on the ECU is supposed to do? It's currently connected in a very nonsensical way and I'd like to understand how it should be connected. Does anyone have specific knowledge? I've a loom with the six pin diagnostics connector and the easystart system if it helps. Failing that, does anyone know what happens to pin 22 in the cases of a fault and no fault? Thanks in advance. Cheers... Paul

Thanks seal in and looking good so far , I wonder if the seal is this way round because the garter spring in the seal is not made of stainless-steel and hence would suffer from corrosion and ultimately fail.

Yep, you have the most complicated and problematic carburetor design that was ever installed on a motorcycle so that they did not have to buy a fuel injection system from Honda. Most of the problems will be in the bottom half of the carburetor where the ethanol fuel evaporates out of the float bowl and leaves solids and corrodes parts, the top half won't be a problem until the rubber bits start to degrade and lose critical engine vacuum pressure. Avoid ethanol fuels if at all possible.

Just bought the bike a couple days ago and need direction and guidance for repairs. No luck searching Google. Happy to have found this Awesomely informative site! Thank you all in advance.

@Noel09 https://www.trialscentral.com/forums/topic/80228-fuel-tap-solenoide https://www.trialscentral.com/forums/topic/64519-beta-4t-fuel-tap-solenoid/

@Noel09 www.betausa.com -support - trials - owners manuals = MIKUNI SE BSR 33-79 The information is all there. Regards Alan

Hi, sorry more questions. I'm trying to figure out my fuel system on the 2007 rev 4T 250 4-stroke. Mostly out of curiosity so if anyone knows them and could fill me in I'd be very thankful. OK in the manual the fuel tap has a weird looking fuel tap? My doesn't have the same. I'll add some photos. Mine also has a fuel outlet at the back of the tank with a weird nob on it? The fuel outlet on the side of the tank doesn't seem to have an on/off? The fuel lines go into a little chrome cylinder which I'm guessing is a pump? It plugs into the wiring loom. The block connector the feeds it has 2 extra wires that have been cut? It also has a hot start cable that runs into the bottom of the intake manifold but some cut the cable at the headstock? Do I need this? Thanks again everyone for help and advice. Noel

Hi everyone. I'm totally new to trials and just bought an old 2007 rev 4T 250 4-stroke. I'm fixing a few things and have a carb question. What carb is in my bike? I want to order a kit as the bowl gasket it weeping. The carb is a mikuni. There is some writing on one side. Looks like 33 79 L691? I did ask chatgp and it reckons it's a mikuni BSR33? But just want to make sure. Thanks Noel

For any person who has an interest . This gives some insight and interestingly from three riding levels which gives balance that is normally absent. https://youtu.be/3w_WxS411wY?si=ukWNMnZagaC 51:25 is the part of the video that specifically talks about marking regs. Regards Alan.

Tell of too much oil in your pre mix is how badly the exhaust plugs up with unburnt oil residue, naturally fuel rich condition intake also relates to oil rich. Your air cleaner filter needs to be clean and oiled correctly or that will starve the engine of air and lead to rich operation and poor performance, the reed valves need to seat perfect or scavenging pressure will force fuel and compression backwards through the intake so make sure the reeds seat perfect. Compression test is never a bad idea for diagnosis and future reference if you have the equipment. 👍

What octane fuel? If in doubt drop the main jet needle one notch and test ride it 👍

HEY EVERYBODY RUNNING 80-1 AND PLUG IS WET ALMOST LIKE ITS RICH. IS THIS NORMAL?

Thanks, I'll try the water test to make sure. Yes, know the brakes will be DOT It's just the clutch I wasn't sure about 👍

I suspect you are looking at DOT fluid; another test to try, mineral oil does not mix with water, DOT fluid mixes with water very easy. Only your clutch hydraulics would use mineral oil, brakes will always be DOT fluid.

As title says, frame number suggests it's build is march 04. The master cylinder tops have been changed for aftermarket ones so can't go by the colour of the top. I had the Idea to take the top off and dab a cotton bud into fluid and rub it onto a painted surface (not on the bike 😉) and it took the paint off, so assuming I have DOT4 and not mineral oil unless that strips paint as well 🤔 Want to top up master cylinder and fit a repair kit. Cheers Tim