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I just did a quick search and found several, brand new items, for sale on eBay. https://www.ebay.com/itm/195646716202?chn=ps&mkevt=1&mkcid=28&google_free_listing_action=view_item&srsltid=AfmBOoomOfjjk6J1qizlK-8piLtZ_ho3WY4UugHqZiuMB2HSxx7CbhGYXZQ&com_cvv=8fb3d522dc163aeadb66e08cd7450cbbdddc64c6cf2e8891f6d48747c6d56d2c https://www.ebay.com/itm/155406977666?_trkparms=amclksrc%3DITM%26aid%3D1110006%26algo%3DHOMESPLICE.SIM%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D290511%26meid%3D47427a76e5484a03a65637d71963318a%26pid%3D101875%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D4%26sd%3D195646716202%26itm%3D155406977666%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D0%26pg%3D2332490%26algv%3DSimVIDwebV3WithCPCExpansionEmbeddingSearchQuerySemanticBroadMatchSingularityRecallWithVectorDbNsOptHotPlRecallCIICentroidCoviewCPCAutoWithCtrV3Enricher%26brand%3DUnbranded&_trksid=p2332490.c101875.m1851&itmprp=cksum%3A15540697766647427a76e5484a03a65637d71963318a|enc%3AAQAKAAABgAwqOHi2KCgf4%2F6SZSv1me4ebI%2FvqXEw%2FHB%2F8iWWqhXshqX5uohPx20BUGvMHd%2FNVdDC4KI%2FKTb49Rx8STjwMT6FumfvwgT%2BuVTaR3SZ3p348VRbA%2FTZNiAsQeTGoW59%2BW%2FUJrXmpr5hhWbI9yTw1RGQbyjxPcAqegqth%2FU5%2B%2FpivkqsLe%2FrQerAcD9BuwDR6wUgBHtodmc1uq7p424y098nMOnZ%2FJ8K74j6raS9IHQXxfk3oLhYC5pznElmVY2kZSpu%2FcQyGizieKX3ySAcpajhd2NwT62aErWxGjSWeAAoc46SYMDNF%2FLzMnEAyTdzr765pho6A7HFzPZ1oV5KOWEvsyRwPfli8gI9whhucHqiU9uj%2BP7ww30cq88jDN%2F2LwCBkLIodChQUzCHJMKsvC64kEXfpkEgwBsuv2VvHuV%2B6%2FC1nfkX%2BdhT7GTDKd%2FsNMu6s989A%2B09Uh0tIuKt7fEALjlgyNIlUCx%2BdO2AKGBY82h7goQ7RQGERQWoxvo8xQ%3D%3D|ampid%3APL_CLK|clp%3A2332490&itmmeta=01K2WT68YK12EZBFAENM9MV0MB

I am new to this site and this is the first post. I am looking to Refurbish my Honda TLR 250, it has the original wheels still in. I would like to replace them with the Gold colour again , But unable to fined a supplier . If anyone can please send me some details of a retailer so I can start the rebuild I would be Very great Full.Thank Rob.

Well I took it to a trials park and it wouldn’t start again, despite fitting a new plug and fresh fuel. Even after a couple of attempted bumping starts on a nice grassy banking there was nothing (thankfully I took my other bike as well).

As much as I'd like to help, it has never been my intention to give detailed troubleshooting instructions. There are a variety of reasons for this. You will probably need to fabricate the JST JWPF pick-off connectors described on my website. My advice is to find someone local who can assist you or perform the work.

Hi Mark are you still riding trials in the Columbus area? I’m looking to pick up a bike and get back into the sport. Jim

I’ve checked all the cables and they should be fine. To be honest, based on your links I don’t really know what exactly I should measure or how... do you maybe have any tips?

It's possible there is a fault in your wiring harness and the enable signal is not making its way back to the controller. There's good documentation here: https://docs.silixcon.com/docs/hw/esc/sc1/Wiring and here: https://docs.silixcon.com/docs/hw/esc/sc1/IO Bear in mind that the EM controller does not use the flip-flop function for enable. There must be constant battery voltage on the controller's "POWER" input to allow it to operate. Be mindful that there is a non-replaceable fuse inside the controller. Don't short the "KEY" pin to ground (that's why an external resistor is recommended for current limiting).

Yes, it already has the Silixcon controller. I also bypassed the kill switch following your very good instructions, but unfortunately without success.

Based on your prior description, I assumed you had the 2019 model year. That is the first year EM used the siliXcon controller. The wiring diagram will be very similar to the Epure bikes: https://www.electricmotiontech.com/home/em-epure-race/wiring-diagram No startup tones would seem to indicate the controller is not being enabled. Did you bypass your "Security Magnet" (kill switch) as I describe here: https://www.electricmotiontech.com/home/em-epure-race/wiring-diagram#h.fogcawtque8h

Hey Guys, In the past few days, my Electric Motion Trial has occasionally cut the throttle while riding. Now it doesn’t work at all. The kill switch still lights up, but there is no startup sound and the map switch doesn’t light up anymore. The battery provides about 50V and the battery relay clicks as expected. I also tried bypassing the kill switch, but it didn’t help. thanks!

Just a heads up that the (whole) EM factory team are runing a couple of short EM training sessions at Kettering on the Monday (8 Sep) after the GP weekend. Its booked with Inch Perfect and only open to EM bikes. I have a TRS so it will just be the missus going. At the moment she is on her own so I am hoping this post might prompt some other people to book up or they will cancel it and I will never hear the last of it. Full details on the IP website.

Ok just an update.. the carburettor slide was gummed up And by the paperwork supplied by the previous owner they had paid a reputable bike garage to strip And clean the carburettor And service the bike seems the garage took the money And didn't do anything 🤦‍♂️

Hi all my ossa 350 has an Amal MK2 2627 carburettor fitted I want to buy a rebuild kit so does anyone have an idea on what jets, needle, And needle setting,and slide I need please,(slide is very worn)

So did you fix the clutch? Posting about a front brake is not the same. LOL.

I have a 2021 and a 2023 the replacement spring was difficult to install and broke within a very short time, then I went for the extension type spring as a more reliable alternative and I can source them at a hardware store, so I figure why not just set it up for that type of spring. If there is no spring the bike does not roll backwards and the tensioner arm binds up.

What year is your bike? I purchased two of the Jitsie springs in 2020, they fit my 2018 perfect after snapping two of the useless stockers (03012TR100) in 75 & then 25 hours. Looking at my 2025 right now, it looks like the TRS spring has an extra coil compared to the Jitsie. I assumed TRS was just purchasing the springs direct from Jitsie but looks like they are sourcing their own imitation. The 2025 is a second generation swing arm, maybe TRS monkeyed the hole/pin location for their new spring compared to first generation?

If we want to get all scientific there a 4 types of stainless steel and it is the chromium content that largely alters the magnetic attraction of the steel and the possibility of nickel added which has a grain that does not make a good magnet, all steel contains iron. The problem with the replacement spring in question is, they bent it in the wrong place.

All types of SS are predominantly iron. You argue it's not stainless because it's magnetic? I would expect a ss spring to be magnetic, because the very act of cold drawing and then tempering makes stainless magnetic...

Yep, I bought one of those too, it's not bent correctly, ended up sourcing a package of regular assorted coil springs from a hardware store and improvising something that works as good or better to the original.

Email Jitsie muelle ingles.pdf

The problem I've encountered is that the spring is not the same size as the original, it has longer pins and a different angle and it doesn't fit into the tensioner arm anchor. I've sent them an email with photos and they tell me they've never had that problem since it's a clone. ALSO THEY SAY IT'S STAINLESS STEEL AND IT'S NOT BECAUSE IT'S MAGNETIC AND STAINLESS STEEL IS NOT. (There are some stainless steel ones that have a slight amount of iron and are slightly magnetic but this isn't the case since iron is very attracted to iron. (I have the emails sent and their responses, as well as a video showing the spring's magnetism that I can't upload. Can you tell me how to upload videos?) Email Jitsie muelle ingles.pdf

Hi just a quick update, I peeled back a lot of the loom tape to get an idea where the various wires went. In doing so I found a few suspect terminations and 2 wires that had detached themselves (1 on the map button and 1 to the fan switch?) I also found poor connections inside the 12 pin plug to the powerbox so I replaced it with a new one (it’s a molex mx150 plug from eBay) I tested the stator, pick up and coil etc and found them to be ok. I then attempted to start the bike and after a few kicks it fired and ran for a second before dying. I kicked it a few more times and it backfired (hopefully because the air filter wasn’t fitted?) then it ran at idle for 30 seconds before cutting out. I will get a new plug and fresh fuel etc and try to restart it later this week. I will of course report back.

check your tank breather is working and the tanks not vacuuming

I'm going to agree with lemur on this. @JBROWN asked about the "POWER BOX" in a different thread. I found a Vertigo service manual on-line. It's probably similar to what you have. The mechanical descriptions are very good. The electrical descriptions are the exact opposed. The part labeled POWER BOX has a 12-wire connector. It is separate from the ECU. I'm thinking the ECU may be a fairly standard design for 4-strokes. If so, the POWER BOX may add a Capacitive Discharge Ignition and DC-DC boost converter. A CDI is de rigueur for any modern 2-stroke. Twelve wires is a lot for that type of functionality, so the POWER BOX may be doing other things as well. I suggest figuring out where the ignition coil primary wire connects. The lack of a wiring diagram is a huge impediment to understanding the system. You'd be doing the Vertigo community a great service by drawing as much of it as you can and putting it in the public domain.