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Not sure if there is a misunderstanding here or not. Just to be clear, I was suggesting that you search by rim size (with other parameters as appropriate), and not just limit your search to "TY80 rims".

Hi, this is really helpful. I want to reduce the gearing on my '72 MAR, and the 10T front seems like a good idea, but I wasn't sure what "chain riding over the boss" meant. Is there something that the smaller radius causes it to hit in the case under limits of suspension travel? Also, good sources for sprockets would be useful. I'm new to this...

They are 16x1.40 and 14x1.40 , number of holes is important as are the angles of the holes , I have see the USA wheels on eBay but I will be taking a chance on how true they are if they are better than my wheelsI , think I’ll just be patient and hope some crops up on eBay , the rear 14” I am considering using but the front is in bad shape 🤨 Appreciate that Ron , I’m looking for them in uk preferably , import taxes would make these expensive . I have seen these but will be a last resort

Went to start my 350 TR 77 after a carburettor rebuild And because of a recent injury I can't kickstart it so I used a roller starter I noticed that the bike was backfiring on start up and wouldn't run .It was then I noticed that some of the back fire was between the head and the barrel so it definitely looks likely the head gasket is fubar.. sorry for the long post but how easy is it to fit a New gasket And is there anything that I should be aware of?? Many thanks Phil B

I had no idea what the wheel sizes are for a TY80, but based on the eBay links above they appear to be: 16 x 1.40 15 x 1.75 Have you tried searching "16 x 1.40 steel rim"? There are results in the US. Seems likely the Chinese even make them. Edit: You would need the correct number of holes as well.

Technically interesting, but something I would not want to see in widespread use!

I ride my 2024 EM with the "zing zing whine" across the street from a residential neighborhood almost daily. The electric/ geartrain whine is minimal, nearly silent, but the pop pop 'trialsy' sound I'm hankering for is not necessarily loud, in fact in my fantasy world, its Bluetoothed to my hearing aids.

I am a police officer, so I’ve seen a lot of burglaries and I’ve had my own bikes stolen before. I use a Abus grinder proof d lock through the frame then attach an Oxford grinder resistant 22mm chain to both ends of the d lock and onto a floor anchor. The d lock’s material will blunt the grinder disk. Any chain needs to be hardened and ‘sold secure’ verified. A chain thick enough to resist a grinder attack for any length of time won’t fit through a frame. The weak link is the chain, not the lock. Even cheap locks are secure. Ultimately, you can only slow but not stop a theft. I’ve also put an additional alarm box inside the garage, which in such a small space is deafening. I have an electric roller shutter door which is as secure as anything. Normal garage doors can be bent open at the bottom. Scumbags used to use a car jack to force roller doors open from the bottom. The new roller doors have metal frames to stop this. I also park my car in front of the garage door. A decent ‘sold secure’ door, ground anchor, chain, lock and alarm will deter most thefts.

Appreciate that Ron , I’m looking for them in uk preferably , import taxes would make these expensive . I have seen these but will be a last resort

Hey Jeff! Welcome to the forum. I just did a simple search and found several TY80 original wheels on eBay. Maybe I’m misunderstanding what you need though. Anyway, below are two links to a full rear wheel and a front. Good luck finding what you need! https://www.ebay.com/itm/256739081016?chn=ps&mkevt=1&mkcid=28&google_free_listing_action=view_item https://www.ebay.com/itm/162588017989?chn=ps&mkevt=1&mkcid=28&google_free_listing_action=view_item&srsltid=AfmBOoopomzC1tONF4ljLp0sdbSqOeiIC_rvqKKSSo1g02_aOgSIJGkJkpY

Hi all I’m new to this forum and am in need of some help , I’m looking for a pair of wheel rims for a ty80 or even complete wheels , I’m am restoring a 1976 model , have been told I can possibly get alloy but that’s not the way I want to go with it as I want it original , any help would be appreciated as all avenues I seem to go down are a dead end 🤨

I have an opinion, but you're not going to like it. ONE OF THE BEST FEATURES OF ELECTRICS IS THAT THEY ARE QUIET!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! See, all that hollering is annoying. Yes, they are even quieter.

I didn't see the post until tonight. You're probably right. I only ride IC trials bikes but the same applies about hearing the sounds of the motor being an important part of riding trials well. As far as electric trials bikes go, I have only ridden a clutchless EM and I could hear the groaning of the motor at low RPM quite well, but someone with poor hearing may have had difficulty. Do the modern EM bikes sound different to the original ones?

My missus is struggling to find an insurer that will cover her factor-e. The bike does not sem to appear on any of the main insurer's databases. I tried to add it to my (Aviva) multibike but they do not list it. We found a specialist trials company that offered theft but it was twice the price of my multibike (Suzuki GSX and Honda CRF) or the wife's Ducati Monster insurance. i just wondered if anyone has found a regular company that will cope with this model? The "specialist" for electric (motor) bikes I found cover the escape but not the factor-e so could not get a quote from them either. Only looking for theft cover.

I was just digging thru old posts and saw a discussion we electric geeks had in 2013 with some interesting stuff in it. Now, 12 years down the road, I recently bought a 2024 EM Pure Sport. It has an awesome diaphragm style one finger hydraulic clutch. I'm learning why its important to mechanically decouple the motor for rapid stops and starts. And I love this bike. But I'm still hankering for a sound synthesizer. The gear whine of the EM isn't loud enough for good aural feedback of RPM which is sort of critical with this grabby clutch. I posted this previously (above this post) but surprised that after 2 weeks and over 1k views no one seems to have any opinion one way or the other. But it seems like such a natural improvement for electric trials, am I wrong?

Just seen this on youtube

Thanks, that makes sense. I'll wait until the shop get back to me to see if they actually stock the caliper with the angled cut, but they seem to be just as confused as me. It's strange that the picture on the website shows it and that the part numbers match, but the actual caliper itself is different to the picture and different to what was on the bike. As you you say if all else fails I can have a go at making the mod myself.

Just a hunch, but I think the angled cut was to allow the brake hose easier access into the swingarm, which is the route it takes on your bike, when the wheel is fully forward in the swingarm. Later bikes and other manufacturers have the hose mounted outside the swingarm. Worst case scenario you can cut/hack/file this clearance into the new caliber

Were the points open when you measured this continuity to ground? Open the points, and then also try removing the condenser, it can short to ground if faulty. You can get a new condenser at most autopart stores or online for a few quid

Thanks @Tr1AL, I'll have a look in to the vacuum bleed kit. I'm relatively new to trials and trying to learn on the job with regards to maintenance and repairs, so any tips are very useful.

@Charliedimmock46 DT50/DT80MX 1982 looks almost identical but has lighting coil included. take that off if you do not want it . Go to ebay to find one second hand , not cheap though. Regards Alan..

That should fit without problems the part number is correct to fit your bike. Regards Alan PS Using a vacuum kit to pull the fluid through the system helps as it can be a problem bleeding the fluid sometimes with these rear brakes. Vacuum kit to do the job is available on ebay for approx £10 delivered.

Seeking advice on the above subject. I need a new rear brake caliper for my Gas Gas TXT pro 2010. The caliper that I removed from the bike had an angled cut on the caliper hanger/carrier part of the caliper. I ordered a new one (part number 365019MO0), but when it came it didn't have the angled cut, even though on the website it was shown in the picture of the caliper. I've been in touch with the shop and they say that the part numbers match up with Gas Gas catalogue etc. Has anyone else had the same issue when trying to get a new rear caliper with the angled cut on the carrier/hanger part, and does anyone know if the caliper without the angled cut would fit the Gas Gas TXT pro 250 2010 without causing problems (everything else on the caliper matches the old one that came off the bike). I was thinking that maybe the angled cut caliper was an older standard model which fits both the Gas Gas and other bikes, and maybe the version without the angled cut is a new standard model that still fits the Gas Gas but maybe not other bikes. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

HI, Many years ago I fit a Stator form a small DT Yamaha. Worked a treat.