trialsrfun

Hi Stu, I had a brief ride on the Motak 280 at the recent Midland Classic Clifton trial, I noticed that the gearing was lower than that on my 199a but seemed very usable though the owner and myself did not discuss sprocket sizes. The Motak handled very nicely with standard geometry but had a fork kit fitted though I cannot remember if it was Magical or HFS. The footrest's were lowered and fat bars fitted in the modern position right over the steering stem these two things gave a very stable ride and certainly suited my height of 6' 4" the owner of the bike is a tall lad too. The Rev 3 kick-start looked the part but being fairly short with 280cc's to propel round needed a strong push but I was very impressed with all aspects of the bike.

Maybe the crank seals you need to check everything, air cleaner, exhaust, different spark plug. On the TY175 carb an o ring is fitted around the main jet this goes into the float bowl, pull off the carb float bowl you will see what I mean, replace the o ring with one that is a good fit it clean the carb out. Good luck please let us know what you find.

I have been told that the Regina 520 half link is perfectly ok and a proper fit with RK 520 chain, I have not tried this myself but am assured that it is so. Both BVM Moto and InMotion list Regina 1/2 links on their sites.

Thanks Woody. I also prefer to have a lower gear so the 11/42 combination sounds a good one to go with, did it require a half link or was their enough adjustment?

Paul Jackson is the person to contact Bondy. Paul is based at Outlane near Huddersfield.

Thank you for the replies. I did a search here on the Bultaco forum & it seems that the models before the 199a had a higher first gear with bigger rear sprocket, the 199a had a lower first then a bigger jump to the other gears (if I am reading/understanding this correctly) so as to give a good turn of speed on the road with a low enough gear for sections.

It is not a Bultaco only problem Bondy any make can wear just the same. If it is quite worn you will be losing a great deal of braking efficiency. Has the hub had a brake liner or does it still have the chrome surface?

The sprockets originally fitted to the 199a all blue 350 were 11/39 with 520 chain but what are you using now, is that combination still the most popular or now considered too high geared?

Thank you just what is reqd.

Which part of the rpm range is influenced by the air jet in a Mikuni VM26 carb please.

Steve Sell who specialises in OSSA & trades as Marlimar UK has alloy ones made specifically for the OSSA bikes. Call Steve on 07800 778 048 & leave a message he will call you back.

Good point that Bondy 2 split links are required. How I measure wear on a drive chain is first clean it, pull it out straight, push the links together then pull one end slowly stopping at the point where the movement reaches the far end of the chain, if there is more than 2% stretch which is roughly 2 links to the 100 then it is probably ready for replacement before it wears the sprockets.

Hi David, Yes I know what you mean It can be a common problem. A half link is actually one & a half links long with three roller pivots in its length. The sides of the outer link are cranked or joggled so making that link as wide as both he inner links and outer links. Links for some makes of chain do not suit other brands so try to get the same make if poss. Worth it to get the bike set up just right though.

It takes time to sort a bike out after restoration, if those things are all you have to do then even better as they are all things that can be done easily as and when possible. Enjoy the bike as well as the company of the people you meet at events.

A good job well done, enjoy competing with it. The colours are just perfect to my eye, same with the fit of the mudguards. Some suggestions for you but please do not think that I am being critical I am just trying to help, The rear chain looks a bit too tight, slacken off the rear chain so that you can place your thumb between the top of the chain tensioner rubber block and the underside of the swinging arm tube. Re route the clutch cable in front of the top yoke. There appears to be two cable ties securing the front brake cable to the upper fork chrome tube, remove these and run the cable ahead of the yokes then when the forks compress the cable will not kink. It is always a good idea to support the bike with the wheels clear of the ground then turn the steering left and right whilst checking to see that the cables move freely without getting trapped or kinked.

Buy a hydraulic scissor type bike lift, wheel the Bultaco alongside the lift... stand in front of the bike to the twist grip side...hold the bar grip with your left hand while hooking your thumb over the front brake lever to hold on the brake..hook your right hand fingers around the spokes of the front wheel by the rim... easy lift on to the stand now job done. Nice looking bike too.

Yes the only difference that I am aware of is that some engines had a vertical cylinder some inclined slightly forward but that would not make a difference to the chaincase fit. For all the correct answers call Simon Bateman @ Nametab Engineering http://www.nametabengineering.com/ Simon is the best person to speak to regarding all things Villiers. One other thing to check on the 9E/32A type engines is primary chain tension, this is achieved by shimming back the gearbox, maybe you have this too far back and need a new chain?

Paul Jackson is the person to contact for Bultaco brake hub relining. Paul is based at Outlane near Huddersfield.

The later cases fit straight on to the 32A without the need to change anything, as for eligibility again no problem with the new shape cases. The 32A crank cases are stronger than the 37A type which tend to crack around the area of the lower engine mounting bolt. Most works bikes ran with 32A crankcases for this reason. The 32A gearbox shell is similar to the 37A but has the raised area under the carb when compared to the later type but this makes no difference whatsoever.

Thank you Rob message sent to you.

Good to learn of a Dalesman being restored, please keep us informed as to progress. The VF black mudguards were made by John Macdonald of Vacuum Formers Macclesfield Cheshire. The black ones were I think the first type, later ones being a white/grey sort of colour which I have on a Bultaco, have not seen any new ones about for a long time though. Best one to contact for VF information has to be Duncan Macdonald Armac Design http://www.armac-design.com/Armac_Design/Triumph_Tiger_Cub_Trials.html

Hi Rob, Unable to send a message for some reason. When the TR77 was new I believe it would have had a stub fit Bing carb. When I bought the bike it was fitted with an adaptor and flange fit Mikuni from a ??? This carb is not in great condition, neither Allen's or Motocarb seem able to supply parts for it but either can supply a new carb supposedly ready jetted for the OSSA but it would be good to know what jet & slide combination works on the 250 TR77 OSSA.

Good job Bondy an excellent finish.

Which slide & jets are required please in a Mikuni VM26 carb when fitted to a 250 OSSA TR77, presumably the set up would be the same for a MAR?

I have only just seen this topic, has the problem now been resolved? There are two types of Motoplat that I have seen, one has a small flat sided probe protruding from the face of the stator which has to be a precise distance from the corresponding part on the flywheel, if this gap is too big then no spark. From memory to reduce this gap the stator would need to be shimmed nearer to the flywheel inner side.