trialsrfun

For the above reason but from now on just fuel followed by more of the same.

The additive is meant to cushion the mechanical collision between valve & seat providing the same protection to these parts that lead did when it was part of the fuel.

I am now thinking this as well so no more additive and I think no more plug issues. By the way Jon I learnt to drive in a Series 1 Land-Rover when I was 11 or 12 years of age, it was a 1952 model with the red and yellow range change levers 1500cc side and overhead valve engine

I have been running it with a NGK BP6HS and lead replacer fuel additive at the recommended ratio as on the bottle but have problems with rough running due to a carbon trace forming between the tip of the electrode and earth wire on the spark plug. I believe that the LRP additive is causing this plug fouling has anyone else had a similar problem?

When John Shirt was building the Majesty bikes with the modified Yamaha frame he had them powder coated by a firm at Leek then when the Godden frame was used they were chrome plated but the final ones reverted back to a coated finish.

And the same to you Sir!

What spark plug are you fellow Triumph Cub riders using please, is one with a projected nose better or stay with the ordinary type, if NGK should it be a 5 or 6 heat range?

Most shock absorber makers offer a choice of 40 or 50 ib spring rating, I realise that the angle the shocks are mounted at, distance forward of the rear wheel spindle & weight of rider all make a difference but is there a guide as to which spring is most suitable.

Maybe TRS will acquire the services of Adam Raga if things change where he is now?

Surely go to your local charity shop find a shirt, tie, woolly jumper maybe a scarf

The alloy billet fork yokes that are sold by a number of people are usually available with steering stem parallel to the fork tubes or run out of usually around 1.5° I have basic knowledge of how trail is calculated but so many people have varied opinion on this so if you have tried both types what did you find, which option seemed the better?

if you carry out the work as described your clutch will work properly.

There is a pawl mechanism in the kick-start which if worn would not engage in properly, this is why when starting a Cub it should be turned over compression then let the kick start back up then press smoothly down to start each and every time stabbing at it will certainly ruin the pawl mechanism. Also as OTF says pressure washing (almost anything) is a big no no, the best place for a pressure washer is on ebay unless you are washing moss off concrete.

Given the scale of the trials bike market I do wonder if having all these capacities is a good thing, can all these models be properly and fully developed then improved again for the following year?

I am not one to alter or make changes to a bike without good reason always preferring to keep things standard where possible, had a close look at the swing arm followed by a dry build to see if a grease nipple could be fitted and if so exactly where because there is so little space to access with a grease gun. With the bushes in situ it was not possible to measure the thickness of the swing arm cross tube but it seemed quite thick metal so decided to go ahead. The chosen spot being central on the underside of the tube slightly pointing toward the tyre so as to allow the swing arm to pivot fully down without the grease nipple making contact with the frame tube where the rear engine mounts are if no wheel or shocks were fitted and the bike on a stand. Drilled 5mm to tap M6, metal even thicker than I thought so all good screw in the nipple build up and grease. Did it work...yes perfectly so future maintenance will be much easier. Thank you all for your input.

As above 'go for it' the OSSA MAR is a good bike. I have a TR77 which is basically similar to a MAR, parts and advice from Steve Sell Marlimar OSSA.

Maybe a bit of artistic licence in the Bultaco manual. Usually where greasing is required on commercial applications there are small spiral grooves around the bush which is to be greased allowing the lubricant to spread into the areas where it is most needed. If a grease nipple is situated on the end of a shaft then a hollow centre is required with small cross drillings to get the grease to the area where the friction would occur so I will probably stick with the pull it apart option.

Thank you for your replies. The Haynes book suggests greasing everything then assembling followed by applying the grease gun until grease is seen around the pivot on each side but as Woody says if everything is a tight fit then it may not pump through however a good grease gun pushes grease around kingpins and spring shackles so it should be possible/ I will take another look at it soon.

Having a tidy up/check over on my Model 124 and currently have the swing arm removed ready to grease and reassemble as there is no grease nipple, but looking at the Haynes Bultaco manual a grease nipple is clearly shown this appears to screw into the swing arm cross tube but from the exploded diagram it is not possible to see where it is located. Should the 124 have a grease point? I could drill, tap M6 and fit a grease nipple so does anyone know where they were fitted as there is not a lot of available space around the pivot point. If you have a bike with the124/125 type frame please have a look where the nipple is fixed.

Just what has any of the above to do with the new Vertigo bike ???????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????

There are replica stands for the 199a which are made from alloy for sale on that auction site, not cheap but they do look to be made properly.

Go for it but please let us know the outcome.

Did the 175 or Model 221 share the same frame as the 158 which for some reason had those flatter fork yokes mentioned above by Sherpa 325 or was it the same type as used on the 199 and later a & b models? Any one know what was the reason for those shallower fork yokes, were shorter fork legs also needed or were the legs the same.

Found this on the www. http://bultaco.700hp.com/ interesting reading for Bultaco fans.

I am not familiar with the Model 190 but have seen some Bultaco with a less curved lower yoke and what appears to be a curved frame down tube. With regard to the 199 air box was an upgraded part fitted to the 199a & b models? Thank you for your sharing your thoughts on the bikes you have ridden.