Once you're in a section and riding it, the physical input wouldn't be any less than on a petrol bike, I'd suggest. Quite possibly more, given the suspension and tyre shortfalls of the Oset. If starting a bike is an issue, the Tenaci Wong would merit investigation for its electric start. Performance is well up to competition standard and I think it's the cheapest new petrol bike you can buy.
Usual cause of only getting 1st and 2nd gear is that the pawls carrier is fitted upside down. The slot which holds the pawls looks central, bit isn't quite. Whip off the carrier, turn it through 180 degrees, refit and see if you can then get all gears.
Plenty of places on eBay sell M7 screws. I bought hex head ones for my Cota 247, cut them to length, ground the heads to a round shape and hacksawed a slot in the head. Good as the standard screws and not expensive.
From memory I later found allen head ones on eBay which are better for the purpose, but haven't got round to fitting them yet.
British bikes. What counts as being a Classic British trials bike? I regularly speak to people who ride Bantams fitted with Yamaha? pistons. Clutches that belong in Yamahas. Shocks and levers etc from China. Greeves bikes that were completely manufactured in the 21st century! How about a C15 with a Honda motor fitted? Or, an old C15 or Cub engine fitted into one of those brand new, light weight vintage style frames? Where do clubs draw the line for entries into Classic and/or "British" trials bikes classes?
Any thoughts?
That's a question which would have prompted several pages of debate not so long ago, but people seem to have run out of puff these days. Perhaps just jaded by it all.
It's more likely for mileage as insurance are hot on it . The more you do the bigger the risk and load you for it
Maybe , but I've never had an insurer ask me to state what a bike's odometer says, and with no MOT data on a historic vehicle they wouldn't know unless I told them.
I fancied the same bud, went on an experience day, totally re-hooked. After a bit of a a hiccup, I have narrowed down what I'm after bike wise and on the search.
The experience day threw up one or two age related bits but a few weights and exercise seems to have sorted that.
As a 66 year old in his late teens ,the odd compromise , I guess , has to be addressed!?
Go for it chap!
I agree. No reason why a body in its seventh decade can't be trained.
Peter Gaunt used the Super Six piston, making capacity 128cc from 118cc.
There's a detailed article about the bike, including a picture of the lengthened swinging arm, on www.bsaotter.com in the article headed "Geekies Gizzmo" in the list on the right of the screen.
Genuine OKO yes, I've been buying off them for about 10 years. For virtually every bike I've put them on they run virtually straight from the box with minimal change, usually drop the needle one notch and maybe down one size on the pilot jet. Jets are standard Keihin. They come with 112 main and 48 pilot. I've never had to change the main jet.
Out of interest I bought one from Mid Atlantic a couple of years ago jetted for a 310 MAR, I wanted to see what differences there were in jetting from how I had mine jetted. It came with a weaker needle but bigger pilot jet. The bike ran the same with either carb
Thanks, appreciate the reply. Thinking of trying one on my Cota 247 - nothing wrong with the standard Amal but I was so impressed by putting an OKO on the SWM that for 60 odd quid it's worth a try.
I didn't know about that source, have you tried it yourself? Would be interested to hear your experience if so. Half the price of the ones from Mid Atlantic but are they the same, ie genuine OKO? Also a question of how they're jetted I suppose.
I looked into that and the answer is no. The previous importer no longer does them. You can find cheap Chinese copies on eBay, marketed as OKOs, but they're not worth having by all accounts. I dealt with Mid Atlantic Trials in USA and found them excellent. Cost was about 118 quid delivered and set up ready for my bike, with some extra jets and hose to attach to air box. I think that compares quite well with buying a new Amal or Mikuni in the UK.
If you take a look at Mid Atlantic's website you'll be able to read about what they do with OKOs.
During a trial I carry some zip ties, a roll of tape, spanner to adjust chain tension (I'm fussy about keeping that just right) and an allen key for lever clamps (I keep mine slightly slack so the lever rotates around the bar instead of snapping off if I drop the bike).
The above is probably a throwback to riding long lap trials in the old days when some maintenance/repair work during the event was pretty common. As far as I can see, almost all riders nowadays carry nothing at all!
I agree with feetupfun. Put one on my SWM and it pulls much better from the bottom of the range and runs cleanly throughout. Mid Atlantic are a good company to deal with and have worked hard to get the OKOs properly dialled in for specific models.
I have a handbook for the 247c and will pm you re sending a copy of the vital data. Meanwhile you should move the kickstart lever on its splines to the 1 o'clock position. If it's too far forward as in the photo it will damage the side casing.
Hmmm, after plenty of time trying to make these things work, even from new, I disagree. It's not like listening to the engine to diagnose the problem, it's a case of swapping every electrical item there is on the bike until it works. I'd be putting my hard earned cash in something a little more proven. They're good for playing about on, but as a serious Trials bike they've got some catching up to do, even though they are priced at the top end of the Trials market. If you've got a spare 10k for one, other brands top of the line models offer superior equipment, performance and reliability.
Don't be fooled as to what a salesperson tells you, especially when there's ££££ involved.
Thank you, very useful and unusual to get an experienced rider's view of the EM as a serious trials bike in comparison to petrol bikes.
Hmm... maybe, but... nah. I used to boil my chain in a tin of that grease stuff (forgotten brand name) that melted when heated but the tin was about 10 inches in diameter - the tin in question is about... ooh... a mere five inches in diameter. If 'er indoors caught me boiling the chain on the cooker, I'd be in the doghouse.
Cota 247 Standard Gearing
in Montesa
Posted
My 247c had 10/40 as standard, but 9 tooth front is better for modern sections.