Sorry no photos, but easy enough to cut a rectangular window in the flat area on the back of the silencer with a dremel. Leave about a centimetre margin on the flat surface. The perforated tube will then be exposed - pull out any remaining packing and repack with modern loose packing material around the tube. Make up a rectangular plate from alloy sheet to cover the hole and fix in place with small self tapping screws into holes drilled along the 1 cm margin around the window. Seal with heat proof silicone. You then have a silencer with quick access for repacking in future. Repacking well worth it in my experience (Cota 247).
Do i need the spring loaded mechanism, seems to work fine.
There is still some play in the shaft if i pull it towards me, saying that the bronze bush and o ring in the casing may take up the slack thinking about it.
Great result. I don't think you need the spring mechanism you mentioned, and the sloppiness in the mechanism should indeed be taken up as you fix the outer case back on. Any remaining slack then is probably down to 1970s Spanish engineering tolerances, not famously precise!
That's it. Try removing the slotted carrier (don't let the pawls fly away under spring pressure) and turn it through 180 degrees, then reassemble - you should get all the gears then.
Thanks guys, always helpful what an excellent site.
Post an issue and you get a global response.
I'm a little bemused by the selector issue in as much as i've taken the primary casing off and i've found that the line and dot correspond when in neutral.
BUT, ive looked at other images of similar Montesa selectors and found some with a spring loaded wheel mechaism which is missing on mine.
My frame number is 51M 3188 which i believe it indicates it to one of the early batches of production, is mine missing this part????????
The first image is my bike the second is an image ive borrowed to ask the question, am i missing this spring loaded mechanism?
If I am missing this id like to bring it to the attention of the gentleman i purchased it from asap.
Thanks everyone.
Try undoing those flat-head screws to remove the shifter return spring assembly. Behind it you should see the spring-loaded pawls in their slot. That carrier needs to be removed and put back the other way up. Photo below shows the set-up on the Cota 247, which is similar.
+1 for the 26mm oko I put one on mine and it starts and runs very well... if you want it to turn better change the head stock bearings for modern roller type bearings it will transform the steering.
Hopefully this won't sound dismissive: changing the head bearings for roller type wouldn't change the head angle, so why would it transform the steering, unless it's simply the effect of replacing knackered bearings with decent ones of any type?
If memory serves, your selection problem is caused by the drum in which the pawls slide having been put in upside down. The groove for the pawls is offset from centre.
This is correct: getting 1st and 2nd only is the classic symptom of the pawls carrier being upside down. The slot is not quite central, but appears to be at first glance.
Mid Atlantic Trials sell an OKO on eBay which is jetted ready for the 348. They also give assurances that their OKOs are genuine, not the Chinese copies which aren't worth having.
You're thinking of cutting out the bottom of the original tank unit to make it into a cover for a metal tank? Montesa made the 247 in this way, for the UK market at least, later in the 70s but you'd be lucky to find one of the metal tanks they used. Could be a case of getting something made up to fit under the cover or modifying a tank from a small bike or moped. Someone on here suggested rigging up a couple of metal hot drinks flasks under the tank cover, linked by a tube with T-piece and tap, but it sounds a bit fanciful and I'm not sure what sort of filler arrangement could be fashioned.
If you're wanting to move to a metal tank because of problems with modern fuel and don't want to line the fibreglass tank, may be best to just use a tank from an old Yam TY or similar, and perhaps cut off the seat/side panels section to use separately.
I'm not a stickler for exact original colours, but I found red Hammerite to be a good match to my 247c. Think the first 247s were a deeper shade though? A good auto paint shop will computer match it for you.
In my experience, lots of good riders arrive at stage 4 without being aware of going through 2 and 3. They can clean sections, but couldn't tell you how they do it.
I probably shift between all four stages depending on the actual challenge I'm faced with. I do try to make my practice sessions improvement sessions, rather than just repeating the same mistakes, but if I leave it too long between sessions I have to relearn some stuff.
Good result. Two bikes will also fit in the car version of the Doblo, facing forward, with the back seats unbolted (not a big job, I converted mine to be quickly detachable)
I think you'll be on the right path following section swept's advice. Don't worry too much about cosmetic appearance, there'll be battle scars on any bike at a grand, it's the mechanicals that matter. It's possible that an old Rev3 has already had a stator replacement: worth checking if possible.
£1k is really about as low as you can go in terms of anything worth buying and more or less ready to ride. I'm in Scarborough and will keep my ear to the ground. If you get sorted out with a bike, I'd encourage joining Scarborough and District Motor Club to get access to their excellent practice facility between Scarborough and Whitby. If you get that far, pm me and I'll be pleased to show you the ropes!
Montesa 348 repacking exhaust.
in Montesa
Posted · Edited by cleanorbust
Sorry no photos, but easy enough to cut a rectangular window in the flat area on the back of the silencer with a dremel. Leave about a centimetre margin on the flat surface. The perforated tube will then be exposed - pull out any remaining packing and repack with modern loose packing material around the tube. Make up a rectangular plate from alloy sheet to cover the hole and fix in place with small self tapping screws into holes drilled along the 1 cm margin around the window. Seal with heat proof silicone. You then have a silencer with quick access for repacking in future. Repacking well worth it in my experience (Cota 247).