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cleanorbust

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Posts posted by cleanorbust
 
 
  1. Electric Motion are indeed ridden in trials, are absolutely reliable to my knowledge and are as "real" a trials bike as anything else if you look at the videos. They're nothing like two grand secondhand yet, so better stick to a trials bicycle if you fancy honing skills at home without incurring the wrath of the neighbours.

    • Like 1
  2. I picked up a suitable spring for my 247 tensioner at an old-school ironmongers. A few bike shops of this type also still exist - you know, the type where they don't deal in part numbers but have an old glass jar behind the counter with a yellowing hand written label marked "springs'.

  3. 5 hours ago, bsa4life said:

    Hi 

    Will twinhocks bikes will come back ?. I love the older british bikes since childhood

    i can see lot of British manufactures are making the bikes again ( Triumph, Norton Brough Superior etc ) , 

    i like the newer models .. but they are missing the character , most of them look the same. Sorry my opinion only. 

    Regards

     

     

    You do realise the manufacturers you mention have no connection with the original companies? The brand names have been purchased by businessmen/entrepreneurs who started new companies with the cachet of the historic marque. It helps to sell bikes but doesn't mean the products bear any relation to the models of yesteryear which happen to have the same name on the tank.

    • Like 1
  4. To answer the question at the top of the thread: because people haven't heard of Jotagas. 

    I believe they are excellent bikes,  benefitting from steady development since their introduction, and the current British importer provides a good personal service and can supply any part an owner needs.

    I think the last thing the manufacturer seeks to do is dominate the trials market, they have chosen not to pursue aggressive marketing and make bikes because they have a passion for the sport. Whether people buy them in numbers doesn't matter too much to them as long as their costs are covered.

    • Like 3
  5. If the bolt you have locks the brake lever in place when you tighten it, surely you need a longer one, ie one which tightens fully in the threads leaving an exposed length of bolt which is slightly greater than the thickness of the brake lever. In this way the lever will be free to operate and the bolt won't come loose as it will be fully tightened (a smear of Loctite would always help as well).

  6. Breagh is correct. Not sure how experienced you are but lack of confidence or knowledge of how the bike will react when you hit an obstacle translates into gripping the bars too tightly. Look at photos of good riders and you'll see their fingers relaxed around the handlebars

    • Like 1
  7. If you could post a photo or two that would help in dating the bike, and perhaps sorting out the handlebar mystery.

    I own a 247 and thought I knew a bit about them, but "two throttles"???  Do please tell more!

    • Like 3
  8. You need quite an aggressive twisting motion of the fork leg using a clockwise and anticlockwise motion as you push upwards to get the fork leg started in the yoke. Some WD40 on the surface of the leg might help. If you've got the pinch bolts fully slackened you should not need to prise the yoke open any further.

  9. 6 hours ago, jimcomins said:

    OK I'll bear that in mind, do you remember what oil  you used in the gearbox and clutch? Thanks.

    Gearbox: 75/90w

    Clutch: automatic transmission fluid

  10. There's no reason why my opinion is particularly important but I do agree with Trialsrfun. Trying to convert one bike into something it's not rarely ends very satisfactorily. If the original bike is a good example, as yours appears to be, what you end up doing is spending money spoiling a nice bike to get one which doesn't really do what you wanted when you started the project in the first place. 

    I admit that an argument against this is to cite pre 65 trials bikes, which in the day were largely converted road bikes. However as we all know the best of them these days have had everything replaced except maybe the crankcases, to get them to do what people want.

    • Like 3
  11. That isn't the original filter set-up, which consists of a roughly egg-shaped alloy casing in two halves, containing a foam filter between two metal screens. There is one on eBay at the moment (from Spain) but priced to set your pants on fire. 

    If you want one of the originals I think I have one which I'd sell for a more reasonable price - pm me to discuss if you like.

    You definitely wouldn't want the open filter type on a trials bike - the filter needs to be protected from all the snot which gets directed at the engine area.

  12. Can't do a photo at the moment but from memory the "straighter" end of spring fits through a small hole in the frame bracket, the other through a hole in the underside of the footrest. The footrest bolt fits through the wound circular part of the spring, there should be a small bush to fit over the bolt there, inside the spring.

    If you don't get sorted let us know and I'll manage a photo tomorrow.

 
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