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cleanorbust

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Posts posted by cleanorbust
 
 
  1. I'm not familiar with the Ossa set up but if the problem is that you're struggling to line up the spring while stretching it, could try pulling the end of it with a loop of wire and pair of pliers while someone else uses some long nosed pliers to twist the end of the spring to line up with the hole it fits into?

  2. I remember that the head angle was changed, only 1 degree or so, but not how it was done. Cutting and welding the frame I think. 

    The Jefferies Honda had extensive changes to the original frame. The bottom section was cut out completely, and the engine also raised in the frame. A shorter swinging arm was used. I think the engine remained relatively standard but a smaller carb was used. 

    In the end, it depends what you want. You won't end up with a Jefferies replica, such were the number of changes made, both major and detail. Neither will you get a competitive trials bike, it'll always be overweight, not properly balanced or suited to trials in terms of power delivery, and a cumbersome lump to move around (even the Jefferies bike didn't really suit many riders). 

    In addition the '72 XL 250 is a truly historic bike in its own right as a trail bike, I'd think more worth restoring to a near-original state. It marked quite a turning point in the trail bike genre. It would really be a shame to try to change it from what it was into something else which may not be very good at all. Just my opinion, you understand!

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  3. 6 hours ago, trialsrfun said:

    I had a Mikuni for my Bultaco from Motocarb Motocarb - Home not sure if genuine OKO are 

    6 hours ago, trialsrfun said:

    I had a Mikuni for my Bultaco from Motocarb Motocarb - Home not sure if genuine OKO are still available.

    Genuine OKOs available from mid-atlantictrials.com

    They do a bike-specific set up on each carb, I've found them very good on price and service, ship to UK no problem. One of their OKOs transformed my bike.

     

     

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  4. As a former competitor the main pieces of advice I would give to a new rider at the SSDT are:

    1) prepare yourself physically (although it's too late now to do significant training for this year's event) - they are long days and you will find things very challenging.

    2) don't hang around looking at sections, time can be tight and you must keep up, in fact give yourself a bit of leeway for getting stuck on the moors or having machine trouble if you can. The experts who spend a long time inspecting sections are also those who can absolutely fly over the moors to keep up on time.

     

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  5. Like you, I've never been asked to have an eye test (l'm 67 and had a licence continuously for years).

    Likewise I've never heard of over 70s needing a medical for trials, and I'm sure I would have done so if it was the case.

    Please let us know how it gets resolved for you.

  6. I rode a TY175 at the same time as you in the 70s Tyupandover. I'd still say it's a good enough bike to hone skills on as it is, provided it's well set up, eg good tyres at the right pressures, brakes cleaned out and adjusted, ignition timing bang on, cables libricated, no slack in throttle cable, mixture tuned to run as crisply as possible, new air filter,  fork oil correct, decent rear units, chain tension correct. This matters on any bike of course, but well worth it on a TY175, and really the difference between a good bike and one that'll cost you needless marks. 

    Standard TY175s did very well in the day, winning trials against the best Spanish opposition. In my experience it was one of the best bikes for developing one of the most important aspects of a good rider: precision. Rather like a modern 125 these days. Just get it all as well set up as you can and then get the hours in practising on it! 

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  7. I use Hammerite for lots of applications on bikes. I just give worn bits near footrests etc a quick dabble with a paint brush if it looks scruffy. Keeps things looking fresh for a couple of minutes' work.

  8. Just a thought...the latest model of 247 was 237cc and had a different timing figure. Could it be the Electrex system is set to the figure used on previous 247s and is giving a retarded spark on your bike?

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  9. I rode a TY175 in the 70s, with, for me, some success. Today, one which runs as it should will get you round trials reliably enough, though the gap in development and performance between it and modern bikes will be immediately evident. Depends whether that is an issue for you or not.

    By the way, the 175 was introduced in 1975 so the one you're looking at will be at least as "young" as that.

     

  10. Should be able to insert a rod or tube (I use an old socket extension rod) through one bearing and the spacer to (just) engage with the inner lip of the bearing on the other side, then drift it out by hammering on your tube. Spacer will then fall out and you can easily get to the the remaining bearing.

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