The rubber between the carb and the cylinder can become rotted on Fantics; given the age of the bike this is quite likely, and leads to an air leak. It is possible to repair using latex dip if you can find some, or a new rubber can possibly be obtained.
The pre-65 Scottish has always beem just that - for any pre-65 bike, British or foreign.
IMO the foreign hardware is usually closer to the pre-65 spirit than many of the cubs, B40s etc, in that they're genuinely pre-65, they're often converted road bikes and so more closely related to the trials bikes of the day. The Honda in this year's event is a case in point -well within the spirit and the letter of the rules.
Certainly for me they add to the interest and richness of the event.
This is 100% certain to be a scam. I've had a similar experience. The "buyer" sends a cheque for over the asking price of the bike. When paid into the bank this shows briefly as a credit before it bounces (it's probably from a stolen account). At this stage you are expected to send the item, in this case your bike, encourgaed by aggressive phone calls from the buyer if you've given out your telephone number, and you end up with no money and no bike! I smelt a rat before going through with it but others have been caught out.
This has happened quite a lot on ebay but I think they've managed to tighten up on it now.
Interesting analysis of the issues around entry numbers, land availability and frequency of events.
Seems the thing which has worked in favour of the sport in the UK, where trials are flourishing, i.e. a low key approach and no specific marketing of the sport, is what has worked against it in the US.
I remember an article in Cycle magazine as long ago as 1970 entitled "Trials - the next big participant sport". What happened?
Perhaps it's a culture thing, where the subtlety and finesse reflected in trials and its devotees fits more with the British approach and is less appealing to those brought up on supercross and speed.
In my opinion, it is folly to assume that we should atrtact as many youngsters as we can to trials, because, taking my local scene into account:
- we already have 100 plus riders per trial. Queues at sections are long enough!
- the more people who latch onto trials, the more who take it into their own hands to use ground for illegal practice, endangering continuation of the sport.
Sure, we need to ensure the sport continues, but its current popularity doesn't threaten this.
Before going to the trouble of altering the engine characteristics, you copuld try fitting a slow action throttlessemly if not already done. Apart from that, I'm sure you'll find that a bit of intensive practice will really help your control of the bike. The 290 is a powerful thing but even the rawest novices do get along with them when fully accustomed to riding them.
Hi All,
This a re-post from the Trials Australia forum. I was hopping you guys could help me out.
Just to add to the discussion, Peter Gaunt, England's foremost exponent of mini-bikes at the time, came up with a CZ powered trialler around 1970, just after he was riding the Jawa 90, but only rode it for a brief while. A production bike called the Norval was on sale for a while. Both used the road bike 175 engine.
In those days there were several alternatives to the Bulto-Montesa domination, mainly using road bike engines of small capacity.
I can only agree with the comments about Trialsworld. It is fairly well presented in terms of graphics and use of technology, but ultimately let down by superficial editorial content.
I think this applies even more to TMX, which I feel has always been produced by folk whose enthusiaism outsrips their journalistic abilities, or perhaps think that us down to earth trials types don't need or want a decent quality of writing.
If you get the chance on your next weekly browse at WH Smith's, try comparing TMX with Cycling Weekly, which while costing a little more has a small circulation and far exceeds our sport's journal in literacy, presentation and professionalism.
Follow the rule of "if in doubt go for the smaller bike". Everybody seems to do the opposite but it works every time for me. When you think about it, in reasonable sections most marks are lost due to rider error, not because the bike is struggling for power. The smaller bike reduces errors or the effect of them.
The point of view that trials offers a spectacle which would amaze many people is understandable, but the other side of the coin is that there is something to be said for keeping it low-key. This reduces risk of land abuse by unauthorised enthusiasts riding where they like because they've got switched on to the idea of riding their bike off-road.
Besides, queues at sections are already long enough in my part of the world!
I was also riding at Scarborough and noticed Duncan MacDonald had won the Clubman B class on his Cub. If I'm not mistaken, I remember him from the mid-1970s era, I think, when he regularly rode an Ossa-powered bike in the Scottish with his own monocoque frame and other mods.
Personally, I think it's great that someone from that era can still put it across the youngsters and can show that a bike as outwardly unsuitable as a Cub can compete with and beat the latest in European technology. Just goes to show that a good rider a) never really loses it and can be good on anything. Who really needs to upgrade from an 04 bike to an 05?
Just a general tip on improving drum brakes - make sure the leading edge of each lining is chamfered with a file. This helps to get the lining contacting the drum over maximum surface area.
Some tips for riding in mud. Most if this just an extension of good technique for any conditions:
- if you want to turn right, or climb a slope with a camber which is high on the right, put your weight on the left footrest, and vice versa.
- treat the throttle as if you're tightening a clamp on your vital parts, i.e. be extremely gentle with movements of the twistgrip. If you think you're being careful with the throttle now you probably need to apply twice as much finesse to get it right.
- practice riding a gear higher than you might think is right. This can help with grip but you need to get used to handling the high gear in the "nadgery" bits of the section.
Textbooks will tell you to run tyres with 6psi front and 4psi rear at the most. In practice you can mostly get away with less than this in the rear, which will improve grip further. It's amazing how many riders run too-hard tyres (look at the lack of bulge in the sidewalls when they're on the bike). The same people tend to slew sideways on greasy cambers.
As a 200 Sherco rider I have to agree it is the bike which most reduces my score. As I drop most of my marks in the "precision" situations of edging round tight corners the 200 is a distinct advantage over bigger bikes. If I five a four foot step on the 200 I'd be doing the same thing on a 250/270, i.e. it's the rider not the bike that can't do it.
can be good on anything. Who really needs to upgrade from an 04 bike to an 05?
Sherpa Brakes
in Bultaco
Posted
As a general tip, it's worthwhile chamfering the leading edge of the brake shoe lining to ensure proper contact with the drum