I just make mine from alloy strip from the local hardware store. You can easily make one up and make the hole at the top end extended so the arm will effectively lengthen or shorten so more adjustment can be had as the brake shoes wear.
I rode a 200 and a 240 back in the 80s, trialling every week. For me (reasonable clubman rider) I found the 200 the better trials bike. It found grip more easily and instilled more confidence. For me, one big rule applies to the 200: never assume it is underpowered, it's an excellent trials bike. It won many trials across the country and had enough grunt to be used very successfully as a sidecar bike at the time. You would definitely not go wrong with one, assuming it's in good order.
Everyone is different, and its not a requirement that your bike runs between 900-1000 rpm.I know older guys that don't even run a tickover on new bikes because they aren't clutch users, while mine is much higher than average because i hate a bike stalling when i hop. Its only a guide, have it set at what you like
I agree, unless riding a 4rt which requires a specific idle speed to work properly, set it by feel, not a figure from a book.
I use a non-adapted Doblo which is excellent for the purpose. I think all the adapted vehicles have a lowered floor which can be awkward for accessing start fields at some trials.
There's a Clymer manual for Montesa singles on eBay UK right now at the reasonable price of a tenner. My 247s are 1977 and 1979 but this manual still applies to most stuff you need to know.
I tried both 250 and 300 at Inch Perfect test day. As stated above and confirmed by John Lampkin the UK 300 is to SS spec.
I found the best way to assess them was to forget engine size and just focus on how well they rode for me. In doing this, I (old timer clubman rider) found that I couldn't really decide between them. Both were soft and forgiving, no sense of the 300 being too much bike. I did find, though, that the 300 needed more beef to kick start it, perhaps a factor for a not particularly fit rider during a tiring trial.
I Agree with second vehicle option every time if you can afford it. A cheap van can be left round the corner or In a friendly pub car park maybe ? If it looks rubbish & obviously has nothing in it then generally nobody will bother with it. I used a Renault espace for years, perfect size, dark windows & tarpaulin on bike if needed, then for various reasons went to a car & trailer and low and behold my garage was broken into and bike stolen even though I was quite careful & never left it on display if I could help it. You make yourself & your bike an easy target, they can follow you home or see you unloading etc, & come back in darkness. Toe rags. A few hundred quid for the cheapest van or Berlingo type thing with an mot is also cheap to tax & insure and it gives you some peace of mind that that you’re bikes not on display to the thieves. Does mean you might turn up at trials looking like the cheapskate though. ?. But it’s also great, as previous poster mentioned, for carrying your kit, tools etc & getting out of crap weather while changing, eating etc. Side doors are a great bonus for this too. Now use a Peugeot expert (all have twin side doors, always one not facing the wind & rain) with a curtain not a bulkhead, so curtain closed when bike on board, open otherwise so it’s clear there’s nothin inside to nick !
Turning up at a trial looking like a cheapskate helps me fit right in.
Or better still, van-derived car like Fiat Doblo or Citroen Berlingo: no speed limit reduction as with panel vans. I know from experience Doblo will carry one, or two, trials bikes inside.
If I'm parking somewhere I'm bothered about security I cover the bike with a tarp.
Ah, that's not the problem then. I had trouble doing my back brake but found a really big syringe was the answer, as if the extra pressure was what was needed.
Several of these were weld repaired back in the day, I think the gap where the pinch bolt goes was too wide on the original model, leading to the lug cracking. A thin washer in the gap pre-empted the problem.
The symptoms you describe are what occurs on earlier Montesas when the carrier which holds the selector pawls is fitted upside down. The slot is not quite central, though at first glance it appears to be, which makes this an easy mistake to make, I've done it myself in the past. Easy to remove the pawls and carrier (don't let the pawls and springs fly off and get lost when you do it), move through 180 degrees and refit.
I think they need the inside diameter of the drum and outside diameter of the shoes (without lining) when fitted on the brake plate. The new linings are then made to fit with minimal clearance. If you contact Viliers Services they should be able to confirm.
Sorry, yes, it's a relining service but it's matched to the precise size of the drum, which may be worn and therefore enlarged, so brake is more efficient.
348 torque arm
in Montesa
Posted · Edited by cleanorbust
I just make mine from alloy strip from the local hardware store. You can easily make one up and make the hole at the top end extended so the arm will effectively lengthen or shorten so more adjustment can be had as the brake shoes wear.