pokenh00d

You need to contact the importer with your frame/engine number and they will provide you with the details to obtain a V5 My 2004 Montesa cost me

The Husaberg is a 650cc single 4-stroke supermoto race bike. 2 rwhp is the difference between 1st and 5th in a race. 2 rwhp is difference between stock NGK and a Brisk Racing plug. Iridium is in the Monty, never in the Berg My Husaberg

Husaberg - Used NGK then dynoed with new recommended NGK/Brisk = definite power increase, I have the paper stating that. Montesa - Used stock NGK was crap and fouled, stopping the bike dead. Put a new NGK in and it started and ran OK. Put the NGK Iridium in and it started easier and runs a lot smoother. Ticking over at real low rpm where before I had to use throttle to keep it running. No change to carb settings. Definately worth the extra few quid to try as you don't have to gap this plug so it takes a lot of gueswork out of the setup. Remember that manufacturers will always supply the cheapest part that does the job. If a spark plug costs them an extra $5 it is money they will not recover in the sale price as people will expect the bike to be sold running, and this is the only criteria they have to meet (and they do) $5 per bike multiplied by each sale, even if it is only 10k unit per year is a lot of money to come directly out of the profits and it is nothing to do with R&D at this stage, it is the company bean counters and if they can save $5 per bike, they will ............. always!! Back to plugs. Not saying you MUST use one, but that you would be foolish not to try one for yourself. If you don't you will never know, if you do the worst thing that can happen is you have a working spark plug and the bike runs. Poke

Have a look here I used the LGS version in the Husaberg Great plugs, but in the UK it is easier and cheaper to buy them from the USA.

Neither, a halfway house SuperMoto engine that started out with 55rwhp and ended up with 65rwhp

Had this argument last year with the SuperMoto lads. So I bought some Brisk plugs and took them with new NGK to the dyno and ran the plugs back to back. Results were ..................................... and extra 2rwhp and the bike held onto the peak power instead of dropping straight off with the NGK. Dyno tester has been tuning bikes for over 20 years and said he hadn't seen such a cheap way of getting an extra 2 rwhp out of an already well tuned engine. Conclusion: If a spark is just a spark then how is this possible. The Brisk and the Iridium plugs create a more efficient spark that burns more of the fuel which in turn produces a better explosion giving far superior combustion. There is no point in "back" tuning an engine to run on a weaker spark solution when you can have extra horses easier and cheaper. So in conclusion:- "A spark is a spark" - No Does a good plug make a difference - Yes (Splitfire not included) Can I back up this with data from a calibrated machine - Yes Can you back up up the negative comments with the same data - No Or are you just pulling theories out of the air? - Yes HTH Poke

I put one in my 315r and it was instanly different (in a good type of way) Highly recommended.

Mine has the same beginning of the number but is registered as an R4 in 04 and it has the white plastics if that's any help.

Coming from Supermoto I don't feel comfortable on a bike without some protection. I use these under my leathers and tried them under a long sleeve t-shirt on my Montesa. When I inevitably fell off (elbow/shoulder impact) all I could do was laugh No pain, scuffs or discomfort from the fall at all. Highly recommended as they are very light but add a decent amount of protection where and when you need it. Also at the price you just can't turn it down. Poke

I bid

It looks like it may have come from elsewhere. I will remove it immediately

The title about sums it up, was having a quick check of the airfilter earlier and on the airbox top (snorkel?) there are 2 vents. One of these had a chunk of regular foam in blocking off one side. Is this a mod/normal or has the foam come from somewhere else in that region?? I am puzzled as on the other off-road bikes I have had I have always strived to get lots of air in quickly and this reduces the intake by 50% I looked in the manual, but there doesn't seem to be anything like it there. Any light to shed you guys?? Ged

You are closer to the truth than you realise With dirt wheels on, any over zealous opening of the throttle on the road results in the knobbies being ripped off

A colleague of mine does wheels, anodised and powdercoated. He can rebuild the wheels with black spokes too Last year he did the wheels for my Husaberg. 2x hubs powdercoating black 2x rims anodising black inc 1 new 5" rear stripped and rebuilt ..............................................

It's a very small world mate, i used to work in Peterhead

Oh yeah Highland 950 SM Montesa Cota 315R R4 How ya doing?

Not done mine yet but will be mounting one of these under the mudguard (they weigh nearly nothing & cost

I noticed a difference straight away too when I put mine i on Sunday. Strange thing though was the guys who were with me noticed a better exhaust note and less smoke too. Bike now ticks over at about 75 rpm too

Well, I ended up putting in the Haven clutch plates tonight and using the Putoline light gear oil at the top of this page What a difference. I was able to stand next to the bike and slot it in gear and it went nowhere and getting it back into neutral was a doddle too. It rattled a bit in neutral on the clutch side, but after re-checking everything I put it down the fact that the plates hadn't been disengaging before It should quieten up after a good warm through. Manual wise, I called Sandifords and they are sending one out for

Bennetts sorted the Monty for

Dunno about the RT but I got my 315R insured by Bennets without any hassle on Friday.

Well ended up changing the plug, not for any other reason bar the fact that the bike just stopped running. I took the BPR6ES out and it was severly sooty (which may account for the odd running all day) I replaced it with the BPR6EIX and what a difference. It would tick over at about 5 rpm and even sounded better while running. It was probably because it was a new plug and would have been the same with a direct replacement, but there was a definite improvement Next up was clutch drag so bad I had to scoot the bike like a kids scooter to stopo it stalling when putting it in gear. I have ordered a set of Haven plates, but am confused as to which gear oil to use. So far I have been recommended the following 1. PJ1 clutch saver 2. Elf HTX740 3. Silkolene Pro SRG 75 4. Putoline Mineral oil (which seems to be their Dexron IID ATF fluid) Question. Which one?? 2 guys at the same shop (Haven) recommend 2 different oils. Now I want to get this right first time as I can see it being easy to muller the plates with the wrong oil and I prefer not to do that. I need a clutch with minimal/no drag and a smooth (not grabby) engagement. If anyone has tried and tested these plates with an oil that would give me the results I am looking for I would appreciate a heads up. Thanks in advance. Ged

Try giving it a good clean down then dust with talcum powder, this will indicate the source of the leak even if it has crept a little Ged