dadof2

A couple of useful checks can be carried out 1) get a spare float bowl fixing bolt, drill it and fit a manometer tube to check the actual fuel level in the carb 2) Set the float height correctly and with the carb upside down fit a length of clear tube to the carb fuel inlet. Fill the pipe until the head above the valve is equivalent to a full tank of fuel to see if the valve leaks.

Motion sensor would be firmly fixed to frame

Hi there, I've been a bit busy this week or I would have come back to this earlier. What to look for on these wires. Firstly check for continuity through both source coil and trigger. source coil should have same resistance in both directions, probably between 200 and 400 ohms. Trigger may or may not have continuity in both directions - please post what is measurement of ohms with meter connected each way round. Your symptoms are typical of a failing source coil. Do you have a handbook that stating make and type of ignition system?

I was just about to make exactly the same suggestion as Slack - Al may do it in the evening while you wait and watch. Copemech - I guess you will read this, it was Al the spanner I was talking about previously rather than Kevin Hipwell. Cheers

I think the problem may have been the angle of the float tang to the float valve . It needs to be near 90 degrees a point of fuel flow shut off

I believe that no stop is best, particularly up to and including centre level but there clearly have been problems at BTC and above this year. Although it is supposed to be no stop a lot of stops have not been given a five. My feeling is observing has to be stricter and no stop properly and consistently enforced but observers are only human. How expensive / difficult would it be to install motion sensors on WTC bike? Is a time limit tailored to each section the answer/, or does this alter the sport too much

http://www.poetonaptec.co.uk/ Consider the above for replating. A word of warning, replaters use very strong chemicals to dissolve the old plating and this will dissolve the steel pipe connection on a 2007 beta barrel, so if you cant remove it you will need a new steel one pressed in or alloy one welded on afterwards. think your barrel will need replating and agree with previous poster that suggests dirt has been getting past the air filter.The brown staining is made worse by bore wear but it can also be a sign of insufficient oil in the fuel and or overheating. There are signs of what may be detonation / pre ignition or metal particles in the combustion chamber. Typical sources of these are parts of bearing races or balls that have cracked or main bearing cage rivets. If you want to know more about engine diagnostics etc I recommend two stroke tuning" by Graham Bell.

I suspect a contributory factor is the use of automatic transmission fluid (Too thin) and the matt finish on the teeth. This prevents them sliding into full engagement. If fitting new idler and pawl then polish the contact areas with fine wet and dry wrapped round a lolly stick or similar. slightly radius the corners on the pawl and idler where they initially mesh

Dixon of Dockgreen by any chance?

Have a word with Bill Wilkinson, he still has the garage at Kettlewell in the Yorkshire dales. They still have quite a few old bikes in

These are parts of the selector mechanism that run inside the shift drum in the bottom of the gearbox. Engine will have to be spit and it will cost a lot more than £50 at a dealer. If its just these parts that are broken the parts will cost about £22 plus VAT plus a gasket set. its a tricky job riveting the new bits in and the pressed metal parts (that look a bit like a chain link) are asymmetric. You probably have a sheared top hat (behind the clutch) as well. Where in UK are you at?

Probably a straight SAE 40 or 50 engine oil, I don't think you should put any oil with EP additive or dispersant / detergent additives.

I suggest you take the stator off and look for the wires to the trigger coil (small black thingy) and the wires to the ignition source coil. The soure coul is the coil with the finer windings than the fan or lights coils. On an 07 I can't remember if the trigger coil in on the stator or separate outside the flywheel. I know on the earlier pros it was integral with the stator but by 09 it had moved to a separate item outside the flywheel. Cheers

I do not know if a RAGA clutch cover is weldable - they are nominally magnesium but it depends exactly what alloy mix it is. May be weldable - take it to someone good with TIG. I have not tried it yet (but I have heard good reports) that ESAB now supply a special aluminium / alloy brazing / soldering filler that can repair both aluminium and magnesium. How to tell if kickstart gears are wearing - you can't easily. The best protection is to learn to kick the bike properly ie make sure starter is fully engaged before giving it a good solid shove down, do not repeatedly stab at the kickstart. Cheers

GP 10 should be OK from a clutch action and gear protection point of view. Some sellers suggest it is only used where ambient temperatures are below 20 degrees celsius and that medium gear oil is the better putoline option above 20 degrees celsius. GP10 has a viscosity of less than 5 centistokes at 100 degrees C. A 10w - 40 engine / transmission oil will have a viscosity of about 11 centistokes at 100 degrees C and this or a medium gear oli will give a smoother and less notch gear change that some gassers suffer from with the less viscous oils like GP10 or ATF.

Only use a pressure washer (and then on a low setting) to get heavy mud off, never direct it a bearings, seals, brake calipers, carbs or electrics. To be honest I would advise against the use of a pressure washer full stop - I've seen them do lots of damage. NEVER wash the bike hot and don't use steam. I have seen bikes (motocrosrs mainly) with every bearing wrecked and the radiator fins bent by careless pressure wasking. Best way is just a hose and soft brush and something like muck off, jizer, janitol or gunk. Then rinse it off and spray all the pivots / bearings etc with WD 40 or duck oil, give whole bike except brakes and bits rider touches a very light mist of wd40 or duck oil. This stops the dirt sticking and it will rinse off much easier next time.

Did you dismantle the forks? ie take the sliders off the legs? Have you checked the fork legs for burrs or damage - even the slightest sharp edge or mark can cut a seal lip. As a previous poster says are the sliders top bushes worn - unlikely on a 2009 Common error is not to drive new seals in squarely. I always use a driver made on a lathe that pushes them in dead square. I also lubricate the outer circumference of the seal with the mereest trace of Hylomar (NOT silicone) to help them slide in and seal. The fork leg also needs to be thoroughly coated with a thin film of oll before the seal contacts it. Cheers

Yes, a tight push fit on a rev 3. You need a piece of round bar with a sharp burr on the end to get into the small groove between the two top hats, you can then tap the first side out I put grease in. The grease I use has high molybdenum disulphde content.

Honda (Montesa) and sherco out already, have not seen the others yet but I hav'nt bothered looking either

Yep, common problem

You should be able to pick up a decent TY80 for £400 to £600. Parts are cheap and it won't depreciate much, if at all. Don't rule out a gasgas 50 boy or a beta 50. A home built oset may entail unforseen problems and may be difficult to sell on

My preference is to replace the allen bolts with studs and nuts if there is room. I see quite a few barrels damaged with crossed or stripped threads from use (misuse) of allen bolts

You can run the bike briefly with the condenser disconnected I would think you should get over 20 volts ac when the bike is kicked over with plug out

Get it x rayed to make sure bones are in line. I broke some ribs (motocrossing)In June and they were still a bit sore when I started running again the following March. A few years ago i chipped a bone in my elbow without realising it. by the time I eventually had it x rayed and saw the cosultant chip had reattached itself in wrong place. Consultant felt to operate could make things worse and it took over 3 years to get decent range of movement back in my elbow.

Near 1 mm up and down play in conrod almost certainly means big end bearing has gone. Whatever ha caused this probably means main bearings are on their way out as well. What fuel and oil do you use and what mix ratio?