reginald

Previous discussion on this forum Might be some useful tips here....

Hi All, While doing a pivot turn over a log on tl320 no. 2 I smacked the gearshift lever onto a branch stub bending the gearshifter in against the cases and twisting it. Even after gaining clearance from the case no more shifting and stuck in 1st gear. The impact was more or less straight onto the end of the shaft. Is it possible that it maybe worked back out to get end float clearance? Or is it likely that a shock to shift drum may have stopped it working. The kicker is still working fine and I'm assuming the gear shaft is not bent in side the kickshaft due to this. Any theories/ advice welcomed. While ive got your attention my no. 1 bike is leaking gearbox oil and air into the crank - we replaced the clutch side seal - no good. Next step is to replace rotary induction o ring. Heard a suggestion yesterday that there was a additive which behaves similarly to tire sealant and may force its way into the air leak and seal it off. Sounds to good to be true and Id imagine wouldn't be very clutch friendly??? anybody tried such a thing? Cheers Reginald

Heres my super progressive dual triple quadruple rate betor fork springs....wonder what the red and white paint dots mean? Betor progressive ? springs Curiously when I swapped my springs from my second SWM these ones had spacers and were flush with the tops of the tubes. When fitted to the forks with the busted oops I mean super progressive multiple stage springs they were 20mm proud and dont seem to need the spacers. No colour dots on this pair.

My link or for non facebook people:

Well with the help of Feetfun [thanks Dave] and some advice from Martin on locking the engine with a bolt thought the cases we replaced the clutch side oil seal - still leaking and burning oil - bugger - is it worth doing the rotary valve o ring? or could I be up for a spilt the cases job?

Thanks Martin, That's great. While Ive got you - while I was doing a pivot turn over a log I belted the gear lever directly onto a branch stub on the log resulting in stuck in first and no shifting. Is it possible to deliver a shock to the selector mechanism that causes it to disengage without bending the shaft? The reason I ask is that there is no visible sign of the shaft being bent and it kicks over fine and as the gear shaft goes thru the kick shaft I was assuming thats all straight and fine? Any thoughts? PS thanks for all your help and the prompt service thru your website http://www.motoswm.com/ I love my SWMs and this is all making it easy owning a relativity rare machine in regional Australia.

Could somebody help me with the thread direction for the clutch side crank nut [more like a cylinder with a 1/2 inch square female]? Any tips on replacing the crankshaft seal would be also be most welcome?

Yeah I meant road registered.

Well done. a famous bike then? What's the go with rego bikes in the UK? Is this to ride between sections? SWMs were never complianced in Oz. Some ty175 and rl250s could be registered.

Cool thanks. I might stick to the ATF.

Hi Ross any idea of the spring rates for those? I have betor forks on both my TL320s and one pair has those little hex screws in the caps. The others have nothing. I run straight atf oil but only cause of convenience of supply. Was going to try 5wt because as a C grader we don't big hits and the more supple the boingers the easier is to get grip I reckon.

I have ridden Feetupfun's TY - its a 200cc with 250 forks and 75mm lengthened swing arm and its brilliant.....it also has altered steering head [higher and steeper I think]. It is very comparable to Feetup's Majesty 250 but is lighter and more agile..... to be honest I'm always impressed with Feetups bikes as the controls, clutch action and brake setup are really good. I started out on a standard Ty 175 [which is a great bike standard] but if it wasn't for my SWM addiction Id probably go a feetup fun replica. As Subnator points out search on this forum and http://www.trials.com.au/content/index.php?option=com_wrapper&view=wrapper&Itemid=6 for more info.

Tried some prototype replicas of old renthals on my SWM tl320 and they're very good for my height. Their rise is around 200mm, thats approx. 8inch!! Biggest improvements are less strain on lower back coupled with more room under the bars for my legs for ascents. I've fitted a brace for strength as Feetup fun suggested on the trials Australia forum which detracts from the "ape hanger" look a bit but they still look a bit "out there". They do look different compared to modern low renthals/fatbars you see on a lot of twinshocks. Checking out some Ossa 70s on the net and they had quite high bars and as Feetupfun rightly points out era correct bars makes them pukka to ride. Cables make it just and I cant feel any flex in the bar. Best mod. yet to my bike in terms of ergonomics.

Hi Old trials fanatic, Do you have any photos and how much are you after for them?

Wondering if anybody has purchased a alloy handlebar from france trials classic. It says it a size 6 and Im wondering if this equates to 150mm rise. i'm 6ft 4 and i'm looking for the highest bar possible - any other suggestions welcomed. ps Id prefer a high bar rather than a modified triple clamp or relocated footpeg locations.

Hi, from this conversation it sounds like crankshaft seals can be replaced without splitting the cases?? And how necessary is to rep;lace the rotary valve o ring as I am currently ordering parts and haven't included that? Any advice welcomed.

Great thanks heaps Feet up. Geez an international site and the advice comes from just up the road from the Gladstone guru:). The last point you made is not so left field and I looked there straight away. My number two bike has had some heavy mods done to the hub due to this happening and it needing serious repair. Now that you mention this I'm pretty sure it was only happening for the time I rode it continually on my practice section in second and on my no1. bike sometimes it doesn't engage properly and can jump out.... maybe it was a little of that happening. Catch ya.

Hi All, Just been out for a spin on my TL 320 and when loading the bike up in second on decent banks there was a slight clunk - like a quieter version of the a chain jumping the sprocket. 1st was Ok and bike is shifting smoothly etc. I have had the clutch apart recently to change springs and was wondering if the clutch basket nut may have come loose. Would it have those symptoms if this was the case or could the dogs on the gears have worn slightly in second? Any help appreciated.

650ml the manual says. I have downloaded the manual from the internet - sorry dont have link. But if you email me on mark.casswell1@gmail.com ill send it to you.

Here is number 2. http://www.trials.com.au/forum/download/file.php?id=6438 Some differences from number 1. - Different triple clamps [like Bullys]. Different side covers. Only one shock mount position on number 2. Things to fix - find a decomp.; clutch cable knackered and other clutch ease of use mods; find a flywheel cover protector; and get two kick starter stops to protect cases for no. 1 and no. 2; new side covers, seat and rear fender; modify the enduro bend kicker supplied with it to get it fitting against the frame when not being used.

I have the same deal going on but sounds like a lot more sporadically then every ride. this time I have put on a bigger diameter breather and a fresh flywheel cover - so will see where that gets me. I do want to relocate the condenser and will replace points and condenser as a matter of course as well.

Hi All, Does anybody know the part no./brand or description etc to obtain points and condenser for my SWM TL 320? Cheers Reginald

Great machine well done - would the betor triple clamps kick the rake out a bit? I have what I believe to be mar. Different triple clamps on mine and the bar clamp appears further forward.

Yes Bigem bringing the SWM to CD8 just booked to ride Sunday. I will take my YZ250h and hopefully the ty 175 to.