canada280i

You mean your real name isn't popmonkey?

I can see the dealer saying that the ISS is not needed with Map 13 as it is definitely so much easier to start...however, having a system that potentially makes it even easier to start (even with your hand) would be something that that I would just have to have!

I would agree with Borus here, I had some starting issues when running map 12 which were rectified by applying map 13, I also got a nice quicker tickover from 13 as well. The odd occasion that my bike takes more than 3-4 kicks to start is down to my technique....try as I might I still forget about the throttle and give it a little twist.....more self discipline required! The ISS sounds like the solution to peoples issues, although price will be the deciding factor. Fuel Injection is a revelation compared to my previous bike, I would rather give it a few extra kicks than sacrifice the performance over my old carbureted bike.

Just out of interest, hoiw much is a "cheap upgrade", or just how much would people be prepared to pay for the ISS pack?

Ipone.....yummy.....currently running at 110 to 1 in my ossa

No hot start or choke, Fuel Injection takes care of it. Remapping is a dealer thing

I was having starting issues as well on map 12, received an e-mail from my dealer that he had received map 13, a quick drive and five minutes to upload 13 and the issue was fixed. I will say there seems to be a bit of a technique especially when starting from cold but it does seem to start after a couple of soft prods and then a good one from the top of the kickstart arc. I think the bike rocks, I am very happy with it, and the dealer service.

Clutch basket?

Just picked up my brand new 2011 last night. Dealer would not let me take it home until he had replaced the rear wheel bush with a bearing. It was also remapped to 12 and runs like a dream! I am very pleased with it. Started second or third kick from cold and then first kick once warm, i think it is down to the technique and no throttle when kicking. Name change will be made from Canada315 to Canada280i as soon as I can figure out how!

brand new one at this link for 30 quid at the moment: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/montesa-4rt-ignition-coil-/180829484365?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item2a1a46f54d 4rt and 315 are the same I believe

I assume you have tried the usual suspects in the UK such as Pidcocks, Sandifords? You could try H&D racing, they have a NOS of 315 parts, I have also seen them before on e-bay but cannot verify the qualify. Woosters would be another suggestion.

this is the way to do it

Probably, when you open it up you will likely see that it is either gunked up, or that the orginal packing has disintegrated, both of which are likely affecting the noise level. My Montesa had a noticably softer tone to it when I repacked it.

Hi, I am one of the posters from the Montesa Forum who has repacked multiple times with multiple products (stainless wool, regular repacking etc.). Personally I found it to work for me, thee existing packing was very soaked and definitely needed doing, after the bike ran and sounded much better. I guess it depends on how well you think your bike is running at the moment, if you think it needs doing it is quite a simple job - I used the window method and poprivited a cover place backover it when repacked. Whatever you decide, good luck!

My single pot grips like a scorned woman holding your testicles, is the twin pot really that much of an advantage?

Sandifords or Pidcocks to get the actual parts. What you will need is to firstly get the barrel redone and matched to the correct over size piston depending on which one is already in it. Then you just need the actual piston kit which is the actual piston, the ring set (3), new top end bearing, new wrist pin, 2 new circlips, new head and base gaskets. You can probably buy everything as a kit, if not the dealers should be able to put everything together for you. Changing the piston is quite an easy job, but if you are not very mechanical you can have someone do it for you. I did mine over the long winter months here in Canada, riding when its minus 20 is no fun.

Of course it did!.....how else would it get to Warp Factor 9?

But if you have a welder and a little spare time it is an easy fix to make it functional

they are supposed to move, they are a floating front disc.

As I am in Canada and have pretty much nothing to do during the winter months except mess about in the garage I managed to come up with several self-made mods to mine, pics of each are in the garage section.

Did I forget to say......I have a 97 and I f@#kin' love mine!

I also have a 97 and I f@#kin' love mine!

looks the same, and is equally as knackered, as mine, on my 97 it is an AJP MC. I have often thought of replacing mine by making some out of thick aluminum, however the plastic has a moulded portion on the underside which fits into the rubber bit which I am sure is required (over just a flat bottmo sitting on top of the rubber bit), if anyone knows for sure I would love to know!

maybe, if they are not sealing correctly to the reed block it may allow the engine to run on a little resulting in some jerk as the engine is fed off-throttle. I'm no expert but did experience something similar when evaluating stock reeds versus boyesens, I put the stock reeds back in and over tightened the reed stop resulting in one of the reeds not sealing correctly and it was almost like the engine was constantly overrevving jsut a little. When I ultimately put the boyesens back in I was careful to make sure they were a snug seal against the reed block.

If you have cleaned the carb and jets etc. you may want to take a look at the reeds just to make sure they are not cracked or chipped and to make sure they are seating correctly against the reed block.