canada280i

no, I am in Canada and even down in the -15's or lower I can still connect. Once you have done it once you will know the sequence and have no further issues

shouold shut off after 3 seconds. if you unplug the power and then re-plug it will make the noise again. Occasionally I have to do this a couple of times to get my software to see the ECU

my cables are original factory serial port type but I just added a serial to USB connector, setting the port was always the biggest issue I seem to recall

You are in the right direction as the fuel pump noise means the system is powered up. The cannot connect to Ecuador usually means the software is not seeing the right port. Auto setting should find it but I had a similar issue and ended up specifying a port, in my case port 5. If your laptop has multiple USB ports try different ones to see if the auto selection finds it, you will know when connected as a green box with OK in it will appear on screen instead of the red one. You may have to recharge the system a couple of times by disconnecting the power and reconnecting for the software to connect to the ecu. Good luck, keep us posted, it is very interesting and fun when working

Use either a 12v car Barrera with croc clips, or us a 12v power supply like I do. You connect it to the connector behind the headstock, the side that goes to the wiring loom, not the black box

You also have to power the system up by connecting a 12v power supply to the bike

seems like a good idea

its an easy job to do but you will need a puller to get the flywheel off so you can mount the weight. I have one on my Ossa and do find it smooths things out a little

Good to see people still loving their ossa's, they are such a great bike!

for 8 quid I would be making my own out of a piece of bar stock filed to size and then drilled and tapped

Where in canada?

good to know for future.......we should have called Nigel 3 pages ago!

I dont think you can unless you destroy the waterpump...which I did as I knew it was done for and had a new one. The gear is a heat fit which is dropped on the shaft after the circlip is installed but if you heat the gear you may affect the seal. My suggestion would be to put a gasket between and retry to see if the noise goes away before doing anything drastic. The lack of bits in your coolant would seem to indicate that the impeller is not worn away like mine was.

When I say hot I mean very hot, hotter than would ba caused by hot coolant, if it is rubbing it will get hot very quickly

Does the pump cover get very hot? This is why I asked about coolant Color as I had an issue once with the plastic pump impeller rubbing on the pump case which made a funny noise, and eventually ruined the pump.mperhaps the noise is more apparent at a certain revolution range such as produced by second gear. To correct this I noticed that there was no gasket on the 300 between the casing and waterpump although one was listed in the parts book. I made a thin one from gasket material (because of the wear I ultimately replaced the pump as well as the fins had worn down) and the issue was totally solved.

i will dig mine out and start it and see if it is similar.

Assume that is the noise with it not in any gear? Is your coolant clear?

This is strange then as you would think that if it was a shaft bearing it would appear in more than one gear

Take the chain off and start it up and see if you get the whine in 2nd without any load

how long had it been in there? were there any bits stuck to the drain bolt? any coolant loss?

mark where it is before you loosen the screw so you can always go back to where you started. it does not take much of an adjustment to make a change so invest some time and do it in small steps

get the mapping checked just in case and have the TPS set at the same time. I run an iridium plug and do not have any issues

I just kept trying different sizes until I found one that fit, use a torx though and not an allen key, the torx "teeth" will grip if you give it a gentle tap and should provide enough grip to secure the rod while you tighten the nut

Ian, you need to hold the other end of the shaft with a torx through the breather elbow hole by the shift lever, which should be blanked by a small screw on your 2013. You just have to jam the torx through the hole and into the clutch fixer rod which is the thing you are trying to tighten

Thanks how bent would it have to be? I have not removed the shaft all the way but looking at it it does not have an obvious bend