bullylover

Hi Bondy. You should be able to see where it is coming from if you pull the counter shaft sprocket off. I have had the seal that goes in the middle of the inner and outer counter shaft leak before. Any of them you should be able to change from the outside with a bit of fiddling and unorthodox work. The manual says to pull the engine in halves to change the countershaft seal but I have done it from the outside before. Cheers Graham.

Hi Dave. The primary case holds 300 ml of oil if the primary case has been off and it is completely empty. If you have only drained the oil then you only need to put 260/270 ml of oil back in as they hold a bit of oil in the case. It sounds as if there is a little bit to much oil in there for the breather to be leaking. The gearbox is the same it holds about 50ml of oil if it is only drained so you only have to put about 550ml into it after draining. Cheers Graham.

Hi Dave. I think the Bultaco`s don`t use an O`ring on the Amal carburettors. I know a fair few of the older British bikes use them as in Triumphs and such but I have never seen one on a Bultaco. Cheers Graham.

Hi Bondy. The main bearings need to be at least C3 grade bearings. You can also use C4 but I think that C3`s are fine. The Shift drum has notches or hollows on the bottom of it and you will see that where they start you want the second hollow to sit where the Neutral stop is. This is that funny hollow bolt which has a spring and a funny rounded end plunger in it. The easiest way to tell is if you spin the clutch shaft then the counter shaft shouldn`t move. If it does then you aren`t in neutral. I am not sure on the changes between the 199 and the 198 gears. I would assume they are the same but you would need to have a look at the gear ratios of each to make sure there are the same. It should have which way the shift drum goes in in the workshop manual so check it out. I hope this helps. One thing which makes a great engine stand for an engine on its side is a milkcrate. Using one means you can get the shafts to go in the holes in the milkcrate so the engine sits flat. Cheers Graham.

Hi Bondy. That is normal. Have a look where the gear shaft exits the case and then look where the gearbox drain plug is. There is not much height difference is there. I would be concerned if gear oil didn`t come out when I pulled the shaft out. Graham.

One other thing that I noticed is your side stand it is opposite to mine. Mine has the swingarm going inside the stand. What I mean is the stand goes on the outside of a flat steel or chrome moly shaped plate on the swingarm with the stand having two small flat plates on it going outside the plate on the swingarm. Yours looks like an Italjet stand and bracket. Graham.

Hi Bondy. That tensioner looks as if it would be great on a duplex primary chain. but if it works then there is no reason to change it. Having a slider instead of a roller on it might take a fraction of power away but not enough to be worth worrying about. If you have it apart you might as well change the clutch plates and keep those as spares. I have seen a lot worse in Pursang`s and Sherpa`s and they still work fine with no slip. Graham.

Hi Bondy. You could try pulling your primary case off and checking the shift pawls and everything in the top of the shift drum is free and working as it should. I would also give it some time on that oil and then change it again. Graham.

You could try your local auto parts stores for some radiator hose the correct size and bend and cut it to suit. Just take in the measurements, Inner diameter of each end. I think it is the same size each end but I am not sure. Graham.

Hello. Your 151 has a small hole through the case around the kickstart shaft somewhere. It is only about 1mm so it is a bit hard to see. That is the gearbox vent. Graham.

I agree with Sherpa325. On my Sherpa I also use Barnett plates and when it is cold I have to de adjust my clutch on the lever adjuster a bit to kickstart from cold. As soon as it starts I can adjust it back to where it was and ride with no clutch slip. If I don`t it will slip like crazy and takes heaps of kicks to start and you also have to kick firmly without being harsh and just ease into the kick not just go whack. Graham.

Bondy if you have the standard lockwasher on your Sherpa then it should fit fine with an 11 tooth countershaft sprocket. I have only ever had 11 tooth front sprockets on my Sherpa`s and they have all fit well with no need to trim them. I can see the need with a 428 chain but not with a 520. I have had new ones and old washers and they all fit fine. Graham.

Hi davdeborg. The best spark plug is either a NGK BP5ES or a BP6ES so what you have is fine. They seem to like a plug gap of .40 mm which is the same as the points. That is also what Bultaco recommended as well. In imperial measurements that is 15 thou. Graham.

Hi littleblackflash. They are both normal threads, screw clockwise to tighten and anticlockwise to loosen. As far as torque goes my aging brain seems to remember 95 ft/lbs for each of them. They are both the same torque. I think that was out of a Clymer manual. I has been years since I have looked the torque for these nuts up though.

Brilliant!!!!!!!!!

Hi Paxo. Yes they are the same size on all of the Sherpa`s and on most of the other models as well.

The main reason everybody changed carbs on the Bultacos was the Amals and Bings wore the slides and needles out very quickly. The Bing wears the slides out very quickly. The Bings were supposedly the better carb out of the two. I know they were more expensive for Bultaco to buy. The 250`s had Amals and the 350`s had the Bings on them. The Mikunis lasted much better.

That isn`t a standard Femsa flywheel. The standard ones hat Femsa stamped on them as well as the points gap was stamped between the holes as well. It had .35-.45mm stamped on it. The standard ones were also aluminium alloy on the 250`s and on the 350`s I think. The size of that one looks like it could be a 250 one. The 350 ones were heavier.

Hello Bondy. First I would clean and reoil the airfilter just to make sure. Then I would check the choke is working, I can remember some Bings the choke plunger would unscrew or come unstuck and would not lift up when you put the choke on. Graham.

Hello Bondy. I am not real sure about the 198B but the 199B`s have the airfilter hose and the airfilter as one item. The airfilter is joined to the carb to airbox hose. Have a look on Inmotions site and you will see them. Graham.

Thank you for your reply Richard. We have got a pile of spares off Steve Goode and that is good. I am just about to paint everything soon and then put it all back together. We got some green Goneli`s for it but they are the wrong shape compared to standard. Cheers Graham.

Just to make a point that Bultaco used to recommend a plug gap of 15 thou or .40 mm. I have found that with points ignitions this gap makes them start a lot easier than a wider gap. It is the same as the points gap. Try that and see how it starts.

Even the replacement stickers have 350 on them and the originals also had 350 on them as well. Have a look on the Bultaco UK site for a picture of them.

Hello Petermac. I can remember on the first green Italjets they all broke the rear brake pedal. I think the kickstarts hit them and I think almost all of them ended up with home made ones on them. I see a green one and a green and white one regularly and they both have homemade ones on each of them. Bully Lover.

Hello Johnny. Yes it will fit. I can`t remember if the 199`s had the same kickstarts as the 199A/B`s but even if it does it will still fit fine. The later one had a different shape is all. The shaft and spline are exactly the same. Bully Lover.