bullylover

Hi Relic. I think the stickers on your Italjet are from the last ones which over here had a red frame and I have seen photos of the same model with a blue frame and a purple one. Have a look at www.italjet.com This site has photos of all of them on it under history I think. Your headlight is off the first ones to come out over here but were the second ones to come out in Europe. Your rear engine mount was only found on the green ones too. They also had a green engine so if your numbers do not match I would say it has had an engine change at some stage in its life. All the stickers are available online. Graham.

Hi Relic. I remembered to look up that information today and the gearbox holds 2 litres of oil. That is why I remembered it holds a lot of oil. Steve Goode also said 10/40 weight but he uses PJ1 Ultra Light oil. He also said the level is under the centre screw in the clutch cover. Graham.

The MK 10 125 Pursang also used a six speed box so they might also be the same. The engine number for them is M 194. Graham.

Looking at your Italjet it looks like it should have a green frame, engine, rear mudguard and tank. The gearbox holds a heap of oil, I think it was 1.2 litres. I have also read that with the bike flat the oil should reach the bottom of the clutch adjusting screw plug. That is the gold bolt thing in the middle of the primary case. I can`t remember what weight oil is supposed to be in them I think it was a light gear oil around 10/30 weight or so. I think. I`ll check for you tomorrow as I don`t have the information here at home. Yours is an early model. Graham.

I`m Graham Weiss and I am a automotive spray painter by trade although I have not worked in a shop since about 1986. For the last 30 years I have been working as a live sound engineer. Yep I`m the idiot who plugs the PA system together and attempts to make the bands sound good. As you can probably tell I happen to like Bultaco`s and I started riding trials in 1979 when I bought the last model Bultaco Alpina 350. I rode it to work everyday and then pulled the lights off and changed tyres and gearing to ride in the creeks all weekend. I stopped riding for about 20 years after I moved to the Gold Coast for work (sound). I started again when I moved back up to my home area in 2007 and a mate got hold of a Sherpa that I used to drool over in the early eighties. This at the time was the only M 199 B in Australia. So I bought it. I learnt a far bit about Bultaco`s and now everybody asks me to fix the bloody things which I enjoy very much. I`m 52 for another five weeks. I have been the President of WDTC for a few years now and I am also on the MQ Moto Trials Sub Committee.

Hi Andy. I`m not sure on the clutch with only three springs. Maybe try having all the new springs but back them off five turns instead of four. I put a new clutch kit in mine and I ended up using the old springs as it was very stiff. You could also try a mix of old springs and new ones. I am sure I have read on here of someone using four springs with Barnett plates instead of six. Experiment and find out. Graham.

Hi Andy. By the sounds of that you might have either a Pursang clutch and primary drive or a Frontera one. These did have a small weight on the front sprocket and a double row primary chain. They also often did not run a primary chain tensioner as these on the high revs sometimes self destructed. The weight on these is a lot smaller than the M 212`s and especially the M 213`s which are a few kilos. The 213 are a nut setup on the clutches. Graham.

Hi Jap350. The M 213 Alpina`s did have a Motoplat points ignition on them from new so it looks like someone has changed yours. Now I understand what you meant when you said you were lining up the holes. What primary flywheel is on yours?. It should have a double weight on yours with the sprocket in the middle. If it does not then someone has changed that as well. Also does it has a single row primary chain on it? The 213 Alpina engines and gearboxes are very similar to the Sherpa`s. The gear ratios, ignition and the stroke were the only changes.

There is a plate in the rear of the silencer part of the front pipe which holds the perforated tube in place. This plate sits just where the flat part of the pipe ends and it gets smaller on the left of Bodwheel`s photo above. You will have to cut the pipe open to weld this back in place. While it is open you should clean everything out and repack it. The clubfoot ends also have packing in them where the end starts before the back box inside the flat part of them. You can just drill some holes around the end of large part of the shot above and use some self tapping screws but cutting it open and welding it is better.

That almost sounds like the needle and needle jet are very worn. The Bings are known for this. Also you have to check the timing with a multi meter or a powered light to check when the points start to open. They have to start to open at 2.5 to 2.7 mm BTDC. You can use any timing from 2.4mm to 3.0mm BTDC Take the wire off the coil under the tank and put one lead off your multi meter in it and the other in a screw hole beside the ignition. Use the Ohmns measurement. That is how to do the timing on a Motoplat points ignition.

I would try cleaning the exhaust out. The Bultaco exhausts do clog up after a while. One way is to throw both parts on a fire and leave them there until they get very hot or use an oxy/acetylene torch and burn them out. It would also help to repack them but see if that works first. The slide on the Bing carbs also wear very quickly so check that as well.

It might be an England thing. I can see them fine here in Australia.

I know the M213 tank will fit on a M158 so I would imagine it will fit on a M199A. I don`t think the seat will fit without some modifications to the seat mounts. I am not sure on that as I can`t remember.

Hello Tripp. What I have done in the past is take the head and barrel off and just lap the head onto the barrel with valve grinding paste. Start with coarse and end with the fine stuff. You will see where it is not meeting the barrel correctly. Graham.

Have you checked the flywheel key? It may have sheared.

If you have installed new points and condenser you will have to retime the ignition. Even changing the points gap will change the timing. So reset the points to 15 thou or .40mm and then time the ignition to 2.6 mm BTDC ( this is the factory recommendation) I like them at 2.9 mm BTDC which gives them a little bit more zing.

Sections 2 and 6 had a separate Intro sections next to the main section. That was the one after the all in one and the last one where you spent most of the time filming and the one where you thought it was hard. The intro section ended next to where the section you rode started.

Usually a 400 x 18.

Hi Bondy. I machined the inner weight of the primary drive so it only has the outer weight on it now. The inner weight weighed around 800 grams.

Once you change to an electronic ignition you will never go back to points. They start better and run better. I have a Bultaco UK system on my M151 engine and the auto advance in the ignition is brilliant. I can have it as smooth as down low and it will still rev like a 125. I would never go back now and you don`t have to keep timing the ignition. Set it up and never touch it again except to clean the flywheel every now and then. The only thing it has changed on mine is to make it run a lot better. I have a lightened primary drive on mine but that is because I wanted it lighter. If you like the way it is standard keep it that way. The Bultaco UK ones use the standard Femsa flywheel anyway.

Why not just make one? A piece of foam from under your ironing board would probably also work.

I always remember the torque of the primary nut as being 95 foot/pounds but on here I was told it is 75 foot/pounds so 80 should be fine with some lock wire on it. I always wire the clutch nuts up without moving them wherever the holes are. It might look untidy but who looks inside your primary case except you. You have the clutch adjusted right so just wire it up. The last time I had mine off I forgot to wire them up and it has done two trials now. I am waiting on a new primary chain in the mail so I`ll hold off pulling it apart until it gets here.

All of the Sherpa`s vibrate like crazy when the head stay is cracked or removed. The 340 is exactly the same so either put a steel one on it which is more than likely to crack very soon or to make an alloy one like the photos in the Bultaco forums on here. If the rear engine mount is worn then just build it up with a bit of weld and rebore the axle hole. This will get rid of the end float as well. You will end up having to buy a new axle and bushes anyway.

The standard Betor forks on a Sherpa were always considered one of the best forks around in the seventies. Pull them off and pull them apart. Then clean everything out and make sure everything looks okay. Put them back together again and add 180 to 190 ml of 10 to 15 weight fork oil in each leg. I use 15 weight and I weigh around 85 kgs. I am in Australia so it is probably a lot warmer over here. Some new fork springs also help heaps.

Hi Darren. The best way to time an Italjet is to use a multi meter and a dial gauge. You hook the multi meter up to the black ignition wire going to the coil and to earth and put the dial gauge in the spark plug hole and get the points to start to open at 2.7mm BTDC. You will see on the multi meter when the points start to open. I hope this helps you out. Graham.