bullylover

Hi Jap350. The M 213 Alpina`s did have a Motoplat points ignition on them from new so it looks like someone has changed yours. Now I understand what you meant when you said you were lining up the holes. What primary flywheel is on yours?. It should have a double weight on yours with the sprocket in the middle. If it does not then someone has changed that as well. Also does it has a single row primary chain on it? The 213 Alpina engines and gearboxes are very similar to the Sherpa`s. The gear ratios, ignition and the stroke were the only changes.

There is a plate in the rear of the silencer part of the front pipe which holds the perforated tube in place. This plate sits just where the flat part of the pipe ends and it gets smaller on the left of Bodwheel`s photo above. You will have to cut the pipe open to weld this back in place. While it is open you should clean everything out and repack it. The clubfoot ends also have packing in them where the end starts before the back box inside the flat part of them. You can just drill some holes around the end of large part of the shot above and use some self tapping screws but cutting it open and welding it is better.

That almost sounds like the needle and needle jet are very worn. The Bings are known for this. Also you have to check the timing with a multi meter or a powered light to check when the points start to open. They have to start to open at 2.5 to 2.7 mm BTDC. You can use any timing from 2.4mm to 3.0mm BTDC Take the wire off the coil under the tank and put one lead off your multi meter in it and the other in a screw hole beside the ignition. Use the Ohmns measurement. That is how to do the timing on a Motoplat points ignition.

I would try cleaning the exhaust out. The Bultaco exhausts do clog up after a while. One way is to throw both parts on a fire and leave them there until they get very hot or use an oxy/acetylene torch and burn them out. It would also help to repack them but see if that works first. The slide on the Bing carbs also wear very quickly so check that as well.

It might be an England thing. I can see them fine here in Australia.

I know the M213 tank will fit on a M158 so I would imagine it will fit on a M199A. I don`t think the seat will fit without some modifications to the seat mounts. I am not sure on that as I can`t remember.

Hello Tripp. What I have done in the past is take the head and barrel off and just lap the head onto the barrel with valve grinding paste. Start with coarse and end with the fine stuff. You will see where it is not meeting the barrel correctly. Graham.

Have you checked the flywheel key? It may have sheared.

If you have installed new points and condenser you will have to retime the ignition. Even changing the points gap will change the timing. So reset the points to 15 thou or .40mm and then time the ignition to 2.6 mm BTDC ( this is the factory recommendation) I like them at 2.9 mm BTDC which gives them a little bit more zing.

Sections 2 and 6 had a separate Intro sections next to the main section. That was the one after the all in one and the last one where you spent most of the time filming and the one where you thought it was hard. The intro section ended next to where the section you rode started.

Usually a 400 x 18.

Hi Bondy. I machined the inner weight of the primary drive so it only has the outer weight on it now. The inner weight weighed around 800 grams.

Once you change to an electronic ignition you will never go back to points. They start better and run better. I have a Bultaco UK system on my M151 engine and the auto advance in the ignition is brilliant. I can have it as smooth as down low and it will still rev like a 125. I would never go back now and you don`t have to keep timing the ignition. Set it up and never touch it again except to clean the flywheel every now and then. The only thing it has changed on mine is to make it run a lot better. I have a lightened primary drive on mine but that is because I wanted it lighter. If you like the way it is standard keep it that way. The Bultaco UK ones use the standard Femsa flywheel anyway.

Why not just make one? A piece of foam from under your ironing board would probably also work.

I always remember the torque of the primary nut as being 95 foot/pounds but on here I was told it is 75 foot/pounds so 80 should be fine with some lock wire on it. I always wire the clutch nuts up without moving them wherever the holes are. It might look untidy but who looks inside your primary case except you. You have the clutch adjusted right so just wire it up. The last time I had mine off I forgot to wire them up and it has done two trials now. I am waiting on a new primary chain in the mail so I`ll hold off pulling it apart until it gets here.

All of the Sherpa`s vibrate like crazy when the head stay is cracked or removed. The 340 is exactly the same so either put a steel one on it which is more than likely to crack very soon or to make an alloy one like the photos in the Bultaco forums on here. If the rear engine mount is worn then just build it up with a bit of weld and rebore the axle hole. This will get rid of the end float as well. You will end up having to buy a new axle and bushes anyway.

The standard Betor forks on a Sherpa were always considered one of the best forks around in the seventies. Pull them off and pull them apart. Then clean everything out and make sure everything looks okay. Put them back together again and add 180 to 190 ml of 10 to 15 weight fork oil in each leg. I use 15 weight and I weigh around 85 kgs. I am in Australia so it is probably a lot warmer over here. Some new fork springs also help heaps.

Hi Darren. The best way to time an Italjet is to use a multi meter and a dial gauge. You hook the multi meter up to the black ignition wire going to the coil and to earth and put the dial gauge in the spark plug hole and get the points to start to open at 2.7mm BTDC. You will see on the multi meter when the points start to open. I hope this helps you out. Graham.

Hi Sherconoob. Just email David Ryan and ask him. He is the Australian Beta importer. Graham.

All I can say is the fact that Bultaco`s are perfection and heaven all rolled into one bike. You can`t deny the results from the mid sixties, the seventies and the early eighties.

Hi Clasico. As far as shocks go it depends on how much you want to spend. Rockshocks and Falcons seem to be among the best around but you pay for them. I have NJB expert shocks on my M 199 B which seen to be pretty good and not very expensive. I think they are currently going for 98 pounds. The forks I would treat it to some new springs which make a huge difference. Once again it depends on how much you wish to spend. I just got some from Bultaco UK which I find to be good. The Carburettor I have an old Mikuni on mine which is fine. The Dellorto`s are good or a Keihin is also good. Once again it depends on the rules in your area as to which kind to use. A flat slide is better than a round slide but some places you can`t use a flat slide carb because of the competition rules. A fair few people like the Oko`s as well. You will need a 28mm carb. Did you find out what was wrong with the clutch on yours? I hope this helps you. Graham.

I find that the clutch springs work well at four turns out. Screw them up firm but not tight and back them off four full turns and try that. I have also used four and a half turns out but you have to have a very good clutch to do that. It also looks like you might be short a ball bearing between the pushrod and the mushroom end. Have a look and see if there is a ball bearing on the end of the pushrod. Graham.

Rad Hard Chroming have moved over to Dollis Street, Salisbury, Brisbane now.

The only other thing you should do is clean the carburettor out and check the airfilter. Pull the airfilter out and clean it. If it is okay then put it back in. Often airfilters which have not been used for a while go crumbly and you have to throw them out. Do this before you start the bike. The rear wheel often you can take buckles in the rim out by moving the spokes. This just takes time and effort. It depends on if the spokes want to move or not. Enjoy your new Bultaco! Graham.

Paulmac is right Bondy. In the early 80`s I saw 5 199 A`s lined up all with original paint on the sidecovers and frames and they were all different colours. I have seen a 199 A with different paint on each of the sidecovers. This is from standard. The Spanish didn`t use code until the mid to late 80`s even on their cars. I can remember having to spray some Spanish cars in the late 70`s and we had to get the paint codes from the paint manufacturer. The A colour usually matches the B colour and the Pursang blue as well. They did change over the years from batch to batch. Graham.