bullylover

Some also had a red wire for the brake light as well. I think it was red anyway. Graham.

I have had an In Motion one in my Sherpa M199B for the last three years now and it is still fine. I have a brand new spare but I have not had to use it as yet. The one I had in before that was okay except the airfilter would not stay glued to the rubber so I used the rubber to go on a friends M199A standard airbox. That was a couple of years ago and it is still fine. So I would change where you buy yours from Larry. Graham.

All the 199 B`s I have seen all have no cutaway for the hub to miss the fork leg, the same as the 199 A`s. It will also help your axle clamp if you line the slot or cut in the spacer up with the slot in the fork leg. All of the Bultaco off road bikes (that I have seen) came with two fork seals in each side. Use seals off a KTM SX 65 2002 to 2009. With these seals you only need one a side. The last Sherpa`s used what ever parts they could find so they might have had any Betor legs on them. I think the SWM`s with Betor forks only had pinch bolts on one side too. Graham.

I once tried to buy some at a bearing shop over here in Australia and I was told that they did not have that size on their lists of tapered bearings. They did not come that narrow only in a wider size. I mean the height of the bearing. It may be different over there. The In Motion ones are good and they are cheap compared to the bearings over here.

I know the M213 primary flywheel is the same as the 325 Sherpa and the early 250 Alpina ones are the same as the Sherpa so you would think M188 would be the same as the 213 and the 325 Sherpa`s. I also have a broken M151 flywheel too.

There is also www.bultaco.com in the US.

Trum, if you have a look at Bondy`s post above there is a picture of an In Motion ignition there. The black wire from the ignition goes up to the black box and also goes to the kill switch. You have to earth both the black box(I think) and the coil. All the colours match up. They are really straight forward to do. Graham.

I have moved the pegs on my M199B about a half an inch down and half an inch back. I also used modern pegs and brackets. I put some Apico`s on it and it improved the feel and seemed to improve the traction as well. I really liked the modification. Graham.

A Motorcycling Australia Senior National licence which lets you ride in any motorcycle competition in Australia is $300 this year and a Senior Restricted National is $210 which lets you ride in Fast 50`s, Mini Moto and Moto Trials. My club the riding fee for a club day is $15.00 and an Interclub or open trial is around the $40.00 mark. M.A. does have a very good insurance policy though. Graham.

Is it just me who thinks the second rider on that video should have been given a five for not having his lanyard on his wrist. Just saying.

You can get either a BPR5EIX or a BPR6EIX. They only come in the resistor ones. Just chose whether you want a 5 or a 6. Have a look at a NGK site to work it out. I found a cross reference NGK site. Graham.

One good thing to do if you own a Bultaco is to grind/ file the width of the feeler gauge down so it fits in the slot easily. As soon as I buy a set of feeler gauges this is the first thing I do. File or grind the .40mm one down. Your bike should spark fine with the points set at .40mm no matter where the timing is. They do like a small plug gap though. Bultaco recommended a .40mm plug gap as well. So I think Guys might have a good point above. Graham.

I always use a dab of grease on the felt pad. It does not need much. I also put some on the crank hole of the flywheel to help it come off easier. I got into that habit years ago when over here Femsa flywheel pullers were as rare as hens teeth. Graham.

Your M198B looks very good but one thing which improves the look a lot is to sand the ignition case down to aluminium where the thumb imprint is so it is shiny and do the same on the Bultaco on the primary case. This just sets them off. It makes the Bultaco and the thumb stand out against the black paint. Graham.

I might also help to check the high tension lead where it goes into the spark plug cap. It would pay to chop a half inch or a bit less to make sure there is no corrosion in the end on the wire the screw it up again. The screw part in the plug cap can also have a lot of corrosion on it as well. Just have a look.

The footpeg on the kickstart lever side was always a hassle on the Italjets. The kickstart also hits the rear brake pedal. What a few blokes I know have done is to ziptie a bent piece of wire(3mm or 1/8``) onto the frame to hook the footpeg and hold it out of the way when you are trying to start it. It is easy and cheap to do this and it works. It might not look correct on a concourse Italjet but if you are using it it really does the job. Graham.

Hi Midlife. I have had the spokes bend before on a Pursang wheel I was respoking and I was told I had the rim on the wrong way around. So flip the rim over and it will work out okay. It helps when you strip a rim to mark which side goes where as in sprocket side on the back and brake side on the front. I hope this helps. Graham.

Yes they were. The chrome on the liner was half gone and I had EBC brake shoes in it. I now have cast iron liners in each hub and they stop much better.

Mags, I often set the lower grade sections for our club and it is very hard to set them. We have the Introductory class and the Clubman class riding in the sections so we set the intro one really easy and have the clubman ones harder. On the clubman class lines there is the Twinshocks and the Clubmen and some of the Twinshock riders are reasonably good riders. There is nothing wrong with taking a five on a section. I have done that often in the Australian Championships which I have ridden twice now in the Twinshock class. In Our Club days now I set a blue line in the white sections which is an optional harder line for the white line riders to take as a self handicap if they choose which everybody thinks is a great idea because it makes the lines harder for the better riders but leave the majority of the white sections challenging but not to hard for the normal Clubman rider so it is hard to set the sections for the lower classes as the level of the riders vary so much. Graham.

To add a little more on my first post when I bought my M199B Sherpa in about 2007 it still had the disc brakes on it that the first owner had put on the bike in about 1983. I still have the rear hub and disc and master cylinder for it. It had Talon hubs and very early Brembo single piston brakes. They kind of worked but they were very heavy as the discs where around 6 or 7 mm thick and about 160mm across. I put standard Sherpa T wheels and hubs on it when I bought it as over here twinshock bikes have to be air cooled, two shocks and have drum brakes. The standard brakes were about half the weight and stopped a lot better. I could also do nose wheelies again. Graham.

I now have Apico alloy footpegs on my Sherpa. I used the mounting brackets from In Motion with their footpegs and then decided to buy some Apico ones and I find them great. I wear gum boots on my feet when riding and I don`t have any hassles at all.

My M199B used to be the only one in Australia in the 1980`s as they were not imported over here by anybody. The person who owned mine imported it from Comerfords in England himself to ride here. I can remember drooling over it in the early eighties as it was the only M199B that I had ever seen. We had the M199A`s here but no B`s. I think there is still only 4 M199B`s and 1 M198B here in Australia. There is another in the shed where I keep mine so they are the only two in Queensland. Mine is also very modified by the original owner.

The major advantage of an electronic ignition is the advance curve they have. A points ignition has set timing so it will run how you set the timing but an electronic ignition has an advance curve which changes the timing according to the revs which is much better. I used to like timing my Sherpa after every trial or every two trials but I would not go back to points now unless I had to. I have an In Motion one on mine.

You could try some hose cut along a line on one side, auto fuel line or windscreen washer line or go to a nic-nacs style of shop and see if they have anything. Or use the rubber to hold flyscreens in place. Any hose or rubber pipe you will have to cut a line with a Stanley knife in a straight line all the way to go over the edge of the airbox. Any small hose or pipe made from plastic or rubber will work. Or you could just glue some foam to the inside of the airbox cover. Graham.

You can buy the original airfilters too. Steve Goode and In Motion have them. What I did on one I was getting ready for a friends son to ride was use a 40mm pod filter screwed onto the round steel pipe in the end on the carb to airbox rubber. Have the clamp and the filter inside the airbox. It might help to make up a new piece of pipe which is a bit longer than standard as the pod tends to fall off the stock pipe. Graham.