al_orange

Another happy customer! Damn was that a mind-numbing task! Tbh, I only did it out of interest but I'm quite happy with the results. The clutch definitely feels less grabby - I'm terrible for snatching and jerking around slow corners so maybe that'll help a little There's no clutch drag when the bike is in gear and the engine is running - still drags when the engine is off but the bike wasn't fully warm The big differences, although not critical but sooo nice, is that I can now snick it into neutral as easy as pie. Gear changes feel a lot nicer too. Probably won't make a world of difference at my very novice level but I can already tell that the bike will be nicer to live with. Just being able to roll it back without having to find neutral and being able to select neutral and rest without stopping the engine will be great! Thanks Dan. Edit - haven't removed the 2 springs or put washers in to adjust the preload but it already feels lighter because it's much smoother to operate.

That's very kind of you to offer Dan but I'm in the UK. Thanks very much though. I've only got two plates to go so I'm going to finish them and risk it. I'm sure it'll be fine.........

Hi, So what is the verdict on the Surflex friction plates? I've just spent 3 hours cleaning my stock plates up only to find that one of the friction plates has snapped!! It's the first time I've taken the plates out so I have no idea how long it's been like that. I'm tempted to finish the clean up and put them back in...It's a 2001 and they may well be the original plates. Pretty much all of the friction plates are filled with glue on both sides between the pads.. terrible production. If the Surflex plates address the glue and tab issues then I'll splash for a set.

Thanks guys - tried the simple technique of turning with the pegs and letting the bike lean right over and it worked a treat! Still need to work on turning up hill but I think that's a body position thing.

I'm having real problems with pushing and/or wheelying in tight corners. I'm pretty sure it's because I don't lean the bike over enough and maybe this is because of weighting the outside peg. However, if it's slick or turning up hill, doesn't weighting the inside peg make the rear step out? I come from an enduro background and the technique there is to always weight the outside peg once you're in the turn. Other things that might be important - I'm way to heavy for the springs. I raised the forks 10mm or so to try and improve the turning but this has made the pushing/jack-knife worse, if anything. The problem I have is that I can do tight turns/8s on flat grass or in the drive but that doesn't replicate up-hill or muddy turns at all. I literally cannot go around corners! it's so embarrassing! I don't have any real problems with hills or descents or small obstacles. Any help appreciated - I want to practice but I've obviously got the wrong technique. Two very good riders have given me opposite instructions on turning, so that didn't help.

Well that's very cynical! I mean, how often do people ride? a couple times a month maybe in the UK.. if you aren't in the garage tinkering then how on earth are you supposed to get away from the wife and kids on a regular basis?? I don't know about a new bike but my 2001 beta needed PTFE on the bleed nipples and it worked a treat. Points 2 and 3 are sound. I would agree with point 1 but I like to leave brakes alone until they need it. I just keep an eye on the pads and caliper and make sure it all moves freely.

I've just ordered a rear master cylinder seal kit because the MC piston doesn't return properly so will be doing a rebuild too. I've rebuilt the caliper already and I can tell you that the rear is a PITA to bleed (as stated because of the stupid loop in the brake line and the small piston). It's a PITA to remove too but just bite the bullet and take it off completely and hang it vertically.

So I've just checked the bike again and the noise is apparent all the time, clutch in or out, revs high or low etc. I tried richening the mixture but that's no different. I guess I'll have to pull the barrel and check the top and bottom end. Any other ideas?

Well I'm going to reply because no-one else has so far! I have a 2001 and I just replaced the switch gear with a single kill switch. I'm far from an expert but the grey two pin plug is for the lights and the spade is one of two that go to the horn (on my bike anyway). So yeah, it looks like the bulb side of the grey connector is missing a wire.

LOL - the sort of stuff I'm doing does NOT need a catcher! Think slippery hills and roots sort of thing. No big steps just a couple logs here and there. In fact, it's the wet, rooty turns that cause the most problems. I was really surprised about the nerves I had at the start though, something about being watched and losing points for just a tiny mistake. Can't wait for the next one now.

Thanks for the feedback. I think it makes the noise at all times but will double check tomorrow. So it's unlikely to grenade the next time out? It still runs and starts well. It's 270 and it's more powerful than my mates 250 for sure. Also, I think I definitely like the sport but I ride Enduro too so would struggle to justify a newer trials bike.

I've just noticed that my bike is knocking - it may had done it for a while but maybe I didn't even notice. Anyway - it's a 2001 REV 3 270 and I've spent hundreds on it to get it ridable but it's probably only worth £500-800. So - how quickly does everything deteriorate once it's knocking? Is it worth trying to ride it through winter and then either get a new one or try and fix it or should I stop riding now and make a decision? The problem is that I've only done one trial so am still not certain if I'll want to take it up properly. I'd love to keep riding but if I have to buy a new bike then I may not bother. If I try and fix it, does anyone have any ideas as to how to go about it? I've done top ends on four strokes before so I'm not inept but I've never worked on the bottom end before. Any help/advice appreciated. Thanks Edit to add - After searching/reading the forum a bit more, I see that "knocking" is something that is often mentioned and can be caused by fuel/jetting etc. I'll check that tomorrow but what I'm getting is a constant tapping at all rev ranges and when idling. My friend with a 06 250 Rev 3 does not have this sound at all. It sounds like the beginning of this video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WHECDrZkhvY

Did my first Trial today! Was a bit of a whirlwind as I didn't know what to expect or what to do. Was really well set out and perfect for my first trial. Nothing too hard and I cleaned a few sections. Did get a little frustrated at one point - I need to learn some patience/mental control to go with the bike control! Had to keep reminding myself that the scores don't matter much at this stage but it's soooo hard not to get caught up in it. I've already learned the benefit of using the correct technique - sounds silly but if you get the technique right, then it feels really natural. Get it wrong and it's a nightmare! I really don't see how I can practice the skills anywhere other than at trials so I'll have to keep going along and try and get better - does anyone have a strategy for trying to learn on the job???

Goddamn Betas!!! I mean seriously! They shake themselves to bits! I lost my kickstart lever somewhere on the road this weekend. Annoyed because I had recently loctited and tightened it. Still, not as annoying as the shock I got when I saw how much they are to replace!!! £90! WTF?? Plus my rear brake needs new seals but no, you can't just buy seals for a few quid, you need to spend £50 on a whole rebuild kit. Very annoying as I've already thrown hundreds at this bike to get it to work properly. My KTM is cheaper to fix than this thing! I'm seriously thinking about getting rid of it now but I'd still have to fix the brakes and kickstart before then anyway. Bloody good fun to ride but such a pain to work on.

That does make sense because when I repacked the end can, I really cleaned it out. Wire brush, carb cleaner etc. it was gleaming. The middle box though was pretty gunky and I had a bit of a go but couldn't get much out of it. Just to confirm - it's not dangerous to have this happen then?? I'll be making the same run every day (as long as it's not raining!) so I don't want to mess the bike up.

What would cause the "old oil/unburnt petrol"? I repacked the end can recently so I assume the build up has happened since I did so. Could the bike be too richly jetted (although it does seem to run fine) or too leanly mixed (too much premix)? I thought the exhaust packing was some sort of fibreglass that wouldn't catch fire? Is it very dangerous to have this happen? Thanks

It's taken me months to get around to sorting my Beta Rev 3 and getting it on the road but I've finally managed it. I took it for a bit of a run today. I rode about 1.5 miles at 35-40mph (comfortable for top gear) then rode around some wasteland for about 20 mins then rode back the 1.5 mile to home. As I pulled into the drive, I could smell some sort of burning and there was a lot of smoke coming out of the exhaust. When I shut it off, the smoke continued to rise for about ten mins. I ended up taking the end can off to have a look and there was nothing too alarming to see. I haven't taken the packing out though and it MAY be a tad loose as it's new but it was the first time I'd repacked an exhaust. Other than that, the bike starts first/second kick every time and runs really nicely. Any thoughts to the smoking/burning?? It was quite a shock and I'd be nervous to take it out again until I'm happy it's not going to go up in a ball of flames!!! I run the fuel at 60:1. Thanks

I've only ever bled mine once - that was after fitting new seals and pistons to the caliper. I back bled them using a syring (no pressure) Then forward bled with the OLD pads in (tiny bit of pressure) Then took the whole lot off and hung it up for a day or two, then normal bleed with new pads (almost good pressure) Cable tied the brake lever back over night and gave it all a good tap with a screwdriver (perfect!)

Umm.. maybe I've missed something but couldn't 17 year olds only ever ride a 125 or was it 33bhp with a reetricted licence? You had to have a restricted licence for two years then it would convert to an open licence. Thus being the only way a 19 year old could ride a big bike. Or is the change from the restricted 33bhp licence to specifically 125 regardless of bhp?

Confidence! Learning on a small, light, non-threatening bike is much easier so you push it a bit more knowing it's not going to hurt/be expensive. When you move to the big bike you've got the muscle memory from before and just need to adjust it a bit. Balance. Having to stand all the time teaches you much better body movement and balance for when it's rutty/slick mud. I've found myself staying standing and controlling rear wheel slides and front wheel grinding without panicking and dropping to the seat. Actually riding the bike rather than getting by on power, suspension travel and ground clearance! And I've only ridden my trials bike for a handful of hours! Also - it's so much fun on a trials bike that it makes me want to get out and ride more - which is always good for improving!

Lol I like your thinking but I'd not use a compressor for any of that. Bugger... Wrt the spark plug - i mean use it to blow out the recess in the head the plug sits in before you unscrew it thus stopping stuff falling into the engine.

Hi, All of the information you require is on here if you search for it but I'll try and summarise/answer for you. Bear in mind I'm a beginner but I've just purchased a 2001 Rev 3 that was in a pretty poor state and have learned a hell of a lot from here and by working on it! - I've read that the shocker is rose jointed and i need to check the joint at the top and bottom of the shock due to them being £40 each to replace ?? The guy says he weighs 18 stone, im not saying he's big but could suspension wear be an issue? -- Like you've said, check the joints and the frame/shock around them as I weigh 17 stone and the suspension bottoms hard sometimes. Worse case is something is cracked. Most likely, bearings will just need replacing but you can check them as normal. Oh and look at the pegs/hangers if they are drooping past horizontal then that shows the owner is hard on the shock/pegs - I've also done abit of reading and it seems that carbs can leak? -- Yep and there's loads of info about stopping it. Search the internet and the forum. It's no big deal if it hasn't been done. I would think that it has been though!! - If it is normal for them to leak? if so when should i expect to see it leak? cold/warm p****** out / a dribble? and can you actually stop it leaking because im not keen on the idea of it leaking -- It will p*ss out when the bike is stationary and the engine off and you lean it to the side. Obviously, the fuel tap needs to be on for this to happen - it really is no biggy but then if after 7 years they haven't done something that simple, what else have they skipped?? - Do the watercasings also corrode in this model of bike? Can i check it without spilling coolant everywhere? -- Pretty sure they do. Search the forum for exact details but assume they do. No you can't check it without draining the coolant and taking off the water pump cover. However, run the bike up and down the road (get the gears/clutch working, not just the engine) and then look at the oil window (bottom left hand of engine - it should be clear/transparent (ignore the colour unless it's white!) or very near (clear after a few mins rest). If it's white/milky/not transparrent, then probably have coolant problems. My oil was actually white, like paint! but I was too ignorant to know what I was looking at, at the time. I've fixed it all up now so the it will remain to see how much damage has been done to the internals by sitting in water!! That's the main risk with this. Actually fixing the issue is very easy and I found it quite fun! Again, this is just my limited knowledge so get searching the forum and the internet. It's all good info for when you do buy one - and I promise that you'll be very pleased when you do get a good one. They're awesome fun.

Actually, I'm trying to talk myself into buying a compressor - at the moment I can only think of the following uses: 1. Fitting tyres 2. Blowing out spark plug holes (on 4 strokes) 3. pushing out brake caliper pistons 4. Cleaning Carbs What else are they really useful for? Everything above can be achieved without one.

Excellent!! Nice one. Any idea what sizes of tube are best? diameter and width. Do you take the valve stem out when you pump up the tyre? or is that not necessary?

Can you fit tubeless without a donut and air compressor or is that wishful thinking?