al_orange

Lol.. well I'm trying to avoid the unintentional splatters so I'll leave that one alone. I did think going to 10/42 could be a compromise but I don't know if the chain is long enough.

Really enjoying the handling of the TRS 250 RR. Has lifted my confidence and is flattering to ride, in the main. However, it's very snappy off the bottom (as expected), even with a slow throttle. I'm running a 9T front which does make the gears more like my old Beta but it's very aggressive in low traction situations (seems harder to get traction than my Rev3 was) so I wonder if anyone would suggest running the standard 10T? I had a look at other TRS bikes and some are on 9T some are on 10T. I'm just starting to ride clubman sections, if that matters. I know there's a lot of variables at play but would like input on just the gearing side of things. Thanks,

I agree. I'm so grateful for the effort and time that organisers put in for what must be no financial gain. Trials is almost embarrassingly cheap. You can't set foot on an MX or Enduro track even for a practice, for less than £30. Competition is upwards of £50. I often wonder how much the landowner gets out of it too. They must allow trials in part because they support the sport and not just for cash. 45 trials a year! Wow.. I wish I could get that many in. I agree that any additional charge (if there is one) would add up but I think that's a bit like having your cake and eating it.

So what would boycotting the club achieve? If it's £15 for an adult entry either way, what difference does it make? If the club is increasing the adult cost to pay for the kids then that could be difficult but otherwise, what's the difference?

What sort of miserable turd would boycott a club because of cheap youth entries??

There is a thread just below about the CDI being the cause of this. Worth swapping with a known one or talking to Steve Saunders.

Edit - not actually sure all the below applies to the Evo but I'm sure they're almost as painful as the rev 3. You've just found the hidden gem of owning a beta. The impossible to bleed rear brake! Have a good search through the forum but depending on age, it's possibly worth getting new seals for both the MC and caliper and maybe new pistons for the caliper too. Strip down, clean all the recesses where the seals go and rebuild. Bleed it off the bike using old pads and something solid to put between them. Often best to use a screwdriver or something to pump the MC piston even on the bike. Assuming of course you've tried all the normal steps like back bleeding etc. The rear brake can be a nightmare. It takes a lot of time, patience, and effort and even then you can be left with rubbish brakes. Persevere but expect it to be a pain and then you're at least in the right frame of mind. Good luck!

Can't quite see Wazza fitting in here though.. ???

Forum takeover? Lol

To be fair, the clutch worked and you wouldn't notice much just riding it around a car park. I could just tell that it wasn't working like a modern clutch should when actually riding a section. Still disappointing but hopefully an easy fix. I always have issues with new bikes so this one is hopefully pretty minor.

Had the clutch MC cap off, activated the clutch and tapped the clutch line and lots of small bubbles are coming up. Did this until I was bored and there was plenty of air coming up. Hopefully that's the problem as it's consistent with the symptoms. Have ordered some clutch oil and will give it a proper bleed and hope it's sorted. As mentioned earlier in the thread, the bikes are shipped with the handlebars inverted, which could be the cause.

Thank you for the comment. Had a quick chat to the dealer and he reckons it could be air related. Will check the fluid and hang the MC up over night and see. Really don't want to take it back unless I really have to. Bit of a trek and I'm fairly competent with spanners. But will see.

Beauty!!

Thanks for the suggestion but there's definitely enough free play. The only things I can think of is: 1. It's brand new and needs to break in (hopefully) 2. It needs bleeding (which is disappointing) 3. There's something mechanically wrong (even more disappointing) 4. "They're all like that sir..."

Did you ever resolve this? First ride on mine today (2019 250 RR) and it was lovely to ride except the clutch wasn't behaving correctly. Always a tiny bit of drag which cause two 5s from stalls but the adjuster was all the way in so the clutch would only engage as the lever was almost all the way out, making it very snatchy. It's weird as it's got a bit of drag but is not at all progressive. I'm hoping it'll break in a bit and a change of oil after the first few hours will help but it's a worse clutch than my 2001 beta at the moment!

Just wanted to add - You can get a very chunky chain through the frame of a TRS RR - problem solved. Alternative options are to try and get one tight enough around the headstock that it cannot be removed even if they take the triple clamps off but I think that's unlikely with a big chunky chain.

So I failed to get a ride on an RR but the One was very soft and everyone I spoke to was really happy with their RR, so I went for it and bought the RR. Hopefully have it delivered in the next couple of days. Fingers crossed it'll be the right choice. Thanks for all the comments and feedback.

Well that is just plain incorrect. Lol. Confidence is what allows someone to execute a move well but they surely need to have the technique built into their muscles and mind without having to think about it. Doesn't matter what bike you're on or how confident you are, if you try doing a tight muddy turn without the correct body position then you're going to dab or spin out. Never mind something difficult.

Why's that? Those are the standard phases of learning anything and especially applies to physical skills. Wrt to trials, it depends what actual technique you're talking about. A rank beginner is level 1 at even standing on the bike and using the controls. As a novice, I'm level 3 with basic corners but level 1 with off camber tight uphill turns...

Are you actually going to be doing/learning trials on this or is it just for playing about in the woods? I believe the supersoft just has a flywheel weight and a slow throttle. still just as much power but easier to control the punch off the bottom and spins up slower, giving better traction.

So.. still struggling to decide, having not had a chance to try out the RR.. can anyone give a comment on just how much snappier the RR is? Also, people have mentioned that the TRS are quite "quick" and that it is sensible to go down a tooth on the front. Is that common?

Umm.. sounds like this is a tubless tyre with a rim band (not just rim tape). About the only thing you can do is take it all off and give everything a good clean, fit it all together properly (ensuring the band sits nicely in the groove around the rim on both sides) and try again. Ensure the rim band doesn't have holes in it. Mine was always fine and then one day it decided not to hold air. It holds enough to do half a trial so I either ride it flat or pump it up half way around. Other people have tried silicone and all sorts but I don't think it's worth the mess and potential damage to the rim. Have a search on the forums as it's not a new problem. Good luck.

Sounds promising. Do you know exactly what parts they replaced?

What is the fit like for the elbow guards? How big are your arms etc? Thanks.

Exactly. I think my garage is fairly secure but I'd just feel stupid if they got in and just wheeled it away without even having the inconvenience and noise of grinding the chain. You never know, they may just bring croppers or nothing.