al_orange

There are at least two different fittings as there are different braktec callipers. I know there are some that have the pin to hold the pads and the other one that doesn't have a pin. But either way, Galfer Red are considered the best I think.

So I fitted my rack to the Freelander and did some testing yesterday. Yes, the rack is noticeably higher but the technique is the same. The clutch side bar end leans on the rear window so I've made a very thick pad out of a training mat to go around it. I'll probably put some protective film on the window too if it works. To load the TRS - I hold the front brake on with my right hand, and then lift the rear of the bike (using the airbox on the opposite side to the exhaust) with my left hand and lift it onto the rack. Then with my right hand, lift the front wheel at 12 o'clock up into the rack. Mind you, I'm considerably heavier than the TRS so can pretty much just lift the whole bike off the ground. Enduro bike - right hand under the swing arm at the rear wheel, left hand on rear wheel for support and deadlift the rear up. Then right hand on the bottom of the forks and left hand/arm around the forks under the frame and deadlift up into rack. Although, that front lift is some effort, especially after a wet event. I'm pretty chunky so I appreciate that this method might not work for some people. I've a much slighter mate that pretty much leans the bike into his thigh to lift the wheels into place but I don't think that would work on such a high rack.

I've always done rear first then front but I have just bought a Freelander 2 myself, so may have the same problem! Especially, with the enduro bike.

I generally agree with what you've said but I think the nose weight is much more about safe handling and relative weights when towing a trailer. The forces acting on the car when towing are far greater and far more dynamic than when carrying a bike on a rack. I'm not an experienced tower but reading the owners manual, it says that it's actually preferable to try to meet the nose weight rather than have a much lighter load on the tow bar. I'd say that as long as the tow bar is rated to take the weight, and you don't overload the rear axle weight then the car would not be at all damaged. Whether it's legal/insured or not is another (and more ambiguous) question.

My experience, using large estate cars, is that in a wet field or incline, there is definitely less weight on the front but it doesn't impact road driving, assuming you are just driving normally. This is with an enduro bike. With the trials bike (that comes in under the nose weight limit) I can't even tell it's on there.

Sorry, only just seen this thread has opened again. Mine is still a bit of a bugger but as long as I'm concentrating, I can normally get it into 2nd ok. I think my issue was more to do with a weird clutch drag issue where at very low revs (idle) the clutch was dragging a bit, but give it a blip and it freed up. This was improved a lot by dressing the steel plates and using Nils oil. It's not perfect but at least it doesn't stall all the time like it used to. The change to 2nd does still catch me out now and then. I haven't tried moving the lever yet but agree that moving it down a spline may help. Alex - with mine, it will easily move into 2nd as long as I give it a "positive" change but I certainly don't need to give it a kick.

I've used a rack on big estate cars for 9 years. Technically, it's easy to exceed the nose weight but I contacted my insurance (once) and they sent me a letter saying that I am still insured if I carry an enduro bike on the rack - which exceeds the 85kg nose weight by about 30-40kg. I'm not sure what the actual legal situation is with nose weight but for various reasons, I'm buying a Freelander which has a nose weight of 150kg so that there's no quibble. However, reading the manual, it states that the nose weight is generally 150kg but can go up to 250kg as long as the rear axle isn't overloaded. Which makes me question just what the nose weight limit really means. Nose weight is relevant for towing due to the dynamic forces and weight ratios between car and trailer and therefore, I'm not sure that carrying a load on the tow bar is the same thing... Does anyone have a definitive and reliable source for information on this issue?

When I was looking at either the Beta or the TRS, I asked every TRS owner I came across what they thought and not one had a single bad word to say about them. Mine had a couple niggles from new but the importer support is unbelievably good so if/when you do have problems, they will generally help you out and talk you through stuff. I have heard many stories about sherco which put me right off. In fact, I've not really heard anyone praise them at all. Personally, I went with the TRS over the Beta because it looked and seemed a lot more modern than the beta. Even if that's just perception. If nothing else, the TRS sounds the best by a long shot. The only thing I really hate about the TRS is changing the air filter. It's fiddly and impossible to know if you have a perfect seal.

Would never have considered a 4T trials bike but having had a tiny go on a 301RR, they are something else. Not sure if I'd get on with it but the engineering and the finish is very good. Really smart bit of kit. I bet the repsol is really nice too.

Do you mean the single fork, not fitted to the bike or do you mean the front of the bike with it all out back together? If one fork, which one?

Not sure there is anything there that is more effective than the correct size sockets, like I used. If it was a tenner then I might be tempted I guess. Don't intend on changing bearings too often. Will keep on top of the greasing now I know how exposed they are. Over 200 hours of muddy and nasty enduro riding and I've changed one wheel bearing. So was expecting to get more than 30 hours out of a set! When I popped the bearing seal to check the grease, the bearing was literally packed with dried mud!

So yeah, that was mega easy. Well done TRS! Heat up hub, 14mm socket on the spacer tube to knock out one side, then whatever you want to knock out the other. Clean everything up nice and tidy. Add extra grease to bearings, freeze for a bit, use suitable size socket (mine exactly matched the 42mm outer race), tap one side in. Drop the spacer in (it locates in the inner race), tap the other bearing in and double check spacer is located in both bearings before seating fully. Job done. Probably the hardest bit is getting the wheel back in the swing arm. Shame that the wheels don't have proper seals and spacers as they would seriously prolong the life of the bearings but then there probably isn't room to fit them in.

Will be very interesting to see what the control guidelines are and if/how clubs stick to them. I'm pretty sure the enduro side of things will be utter chaos but hopefully trials is populated with more sensible folk.

I found the same thing on my rev 3. It was seemingly caused by not leaning the bike over enough, typically when concentrating on something else like an off camber or loose ground etc. As long as the rear shock/spring are serviceable,then I expect it is as above.

I have a 19 TRS 250 RR. Bought it new after owning a really knackered 2001 Rev 3 270. Wanted a new bike because I plan on keeping it for a bit and was fed up of patching up the rev 3 and bleeding/rebuilding the brakes. Bought it because I was going to buy a new Beta Evo but couldn't bring myself to buy something so similar to my old bike... Went with TRS basically because they look and sound the best and they looked like a really simple and elegant design. Saw that they were very popular and no-one had a bad word to say. Have been slightly underwhelmed by the build quality but the brand support is very good and the bike rides so nicely and has pushed my riding on significantly. Next bike will either be a new TRS RR or R, or a vertigo, or maybe a Beta Evo Factory. I like pretty bikes.

All good points. The 2020 TRS looks very different to the 2019. I believe the 2019 was a rebadged Focus. Personally, I so want my toys to look nice but not at the expense of performance (even though I'm not good on a trials bike and even worse on a MTB...). Also, TRS are a too brand in the trials world but I can imagine the MTB world asking "what the hell is a TRS?". All credit to TRS though, I wish them well and am right behind the brand, not least because I want them to grow and remain successful. I'm not 100% impressed with my TRS but at the moment I can't see me switching brands.

I'm trying to find the spec/price for the trs bike as I have a feeling the bike is fairly low spec but higher price than the equivalent from a "proper" e-mtb brand. The components look similar to the Orbea Wild FS H30 which is about £4000. In fact, I think it could be a rebranded Orbea. I'm seriously considering an e-mtb at the moment and would quite like the TRS but not if I'm paying over the odds for it.

In the flesh, it doesn't. I originally thought maybe there is some interference going on but with the brake line guide where it is, there is no way they are making contact. The marks are more horizontal than vertical and therefore make me think it isn't wear related.

Hi, Anyone have any idea what this is? Only on the inside of one fork leg. Bike has low usage and I've cleaned the fork seals a couple of times. Almost looks like a manufacturing fault more than abnormal wear?

Has anyone got a manual/specs for the shock that comes on the 2019 RR? It's a Reiger but I would say it's a 2 way as only have one compression adjuster and one rebound adjuster.

I've a 19 250 RR with a slow throttle and ride about clubman level. I'm also 105kg and the 250 has more than enough power for me. In fact, I tried the fast throttle yesterday and it really woke it up. Perfect for big steps and stuff but I went back to the slow for the tighter/slippery stuff. I've had a quick go on an older 280 and could immediately tell that the bike felt heavier to ride and much more grunty. For clubman level, I honestly can't see anyone needing more than a 250. Most people say the 300 is far too much unless you are seriously good.

Yep, me too. Which is why I asked. This setup looks a little different. Ah, cool. Thanks. This is what I had assumed by looking at it but thought it best to check before I started smacking away.

Sorry.. just a quick one. To remove the rear wheel bearings, it looks like I need to put a socket inside the bearing and knock the opposite bearing out using the spacer. Would that be right? Doesn't look like enough clearance to knock the space aside to access the bearing directly. Also, on reassembly, does the spacer line up perfectly or does it need to be tapped into place? On mine it looks like a perfect alignment which makes me think it should go back to that position quite easily.

Yes. If you're losing gearbox oil and there is no external sign then it's most likely a leaky crank seal and is being burned off. The exhaust would be pretty smokey and would smell a bit nasty.

My clutch wouldn't bleed but operated pretty well. It was because the port in the MC piston was blocked. I cleaned it out and it was perfect after that. If you cannot push fluid into the clutch MC then there is definitely a blockage somewhere. Obviously make sure there is free play in the lever etc.