al_orange

I absolutely agree with all you've said. My point was to highlight the legal significance of the title. If they banned all off-road riding in the UK, it wouldn't affect green laning at all and vice versa. I would assume they know that and therefore would assume that off-road events are at least in their sights. Of course that is my interpretation based on the assumption they know what they are talking about! Probably a daft assumption..... Anyway, we all need to support all disciplines as they will chip away at one after another until they are all gone.

When you said "interpret the off-road" bit - there's no interpretation needed. That is a direct challenge to off-road events. By definition green lanes aren't off-road and therefore this is going to attack trials and other events.

Unfortunately - yes. In my opinion. Of course, the ethos of any sport is open to interpretation. Who is it that has the authority to define it for Trials? Can it be defined? Amazing how having a single rule (stop/no stop) changed can utterly change the skillset and approach needed for a sport. Every sport has rules (by definition). The instant you apply rules, you open up the opportunity to find the "best" way around those rules to give you competitive advantage. Those that have the skills training in one rule set NEVER want the rules changed. With sports, rules are always changed to increase the participation/tv coverage/revenue of the sport. No sport is about being the "best" it's about being the "best, given the constraints of the rules."

I'm just going to add a different perspective to this discussion. I've been reading it with interest as I'm surprised at how much uproar has been caused by the change. I'm a complete novice - I've a rusty old bike sitting in the grage and I'm yet to even enter a trial (I do enduro and wanted to do trials to really develop my riding). Personally, I agree with most of the arguments FOR No-Stop but the only one I took exception to was Woody's one on "trick" riding. I can see the practicalities of running a trial with No-Stop (as Woody has clearly illustrated) but the skill/fitness/dedication it takes to develop that level of control for trick riding is not something to be thrown out with the bath water. Unfortunately, this does take time and opportunity to learn, so people will get it wrong. From what I can see - there's two "roots" that keep trials alive - the older chaps that have the cash and want to give trials a go (like me!) or the young blood that start trials at an early age. Unfortunately, they have quite conflicting objectives/requirements. In the short to medium term, No-Stop seems to be the answer for the older group and I think would help new riders get into the sport - once they've taken the plunge. However - and this is the kicker as far as I'm concerned - When you see trials on the TV or Youtube - it's seeing Tony Bou hopping up ridiculous walls etc. that set's the blood alight and makes you want to get out there and learn those skills. In reality, of course only a tiny percentage get to that level but it gets people through the door. I'm sorry but even footage of the SSDT is bloody dull (if you don't know what you're looking at). Therefore - LONG TERM, Trials will need the exciting/showcase riding to keep it in the public eye and alive. That's what new people see and think "Wow - that's so cool". UNLESS the industry excepts that it only really caters for over 30's. If it does that though, it's future is probably limited - like it or not, you need new blood whether it's old or young and Stop-Allowed LOOKS far better than no-stop. I think it's been said a number of times before but BTC should really be Stop Allowed but clubs should run both, as they see fit. I'm sure many people will disagree with me based on the fact that I really don't know what I'm talking about but that's the whole point to this post. I've been heavily involved with the Martial Arts for many years - the one thing that becomes abundantly clear is that to preserve the real sport/art and keep passing it down, you need to bring in new blood - and that means silly demonstrations and lots of flashy moves that have little basis in reality but DO get the ignorant fired up.

Oakley enduro goggles - basically O Frames with a double lens. They never seem to fog up. I've not ridden in freezing conditions but have in some serious rain. I get very hot and sweaty.

I've wondered the same thing. For enduro/mx i wear everything except a neck brace (only because i havent got one) I'm going to wear knee pads and body armour for trials but wondered if I would get funny looks. I've smacked knees and elbows on rocks before and it really isnt funny. It can put you out for weeks. Easily avoided.

The 2000 is a flat filter but the 2001 isn't. It's like the 2002 onwards but with a rubber gasket and a slightly different shape.

Thanks for the link. Unfortunately, it's not listed on that site either. I think it was only used in the 2001 model and seems to be almost impossible to get hold of!

UPDATE - I've replaced: Water pump impeller Impeller shaft Bearings Seal Inner clutch gasket The bearings went in ok but the seal itself was an absolute pig! It's not 100% flush with the recess so I guess I'll be doing it again before long. It should hold up long enough to know if it was the culprit. Judging by the state of one of the bearings, I'm guessing it was (one of the rubber seals in the bearing had come out and there was loads of play in it). I flushed with 3 changes of ATF and it looks a lot better so far. Unfortunately, I can't take it for a long run as I live in an estate and it's not road leagal so I just putt around the close for a bit so I don't annoy the neighbours toooo much. Flushed out the collant with de-ionised water a couple of times and refilled with proper stuff. Will have to see what happens! Was a quite straight forward job so it's worth doing yourself - just makesure you research how to put seals in properly. Also - I've learned all about the kick-start mechanism because I'd managed to knock the spring out of the shaft, so when I tried to turn the engine over, the kickstarter wouldn't spring back - very alarming at first, but easy to sort once I'd removed the cover again. doh. Edit - oh, I also replaced that NASTY looking jubillee clip that was holding the coolant host to the waterpump cover!

So I could not find a 2001 air filter anywhere (except a shop in Austria). I ordered what I was told was a 2001 but when it arrived, looked like this: The 2001 is like a cartridge with a rubber gasket and bottom. The opening to the air filter is the same shape as the 2000 (by the looks of it). If I were to use the 2000, I think it would seal ok but would it be drastically reducing the surface area of the air intake and therefore make the fuelling really rich? I'm not up to speed on 2 stroke fuelling yet so don't want to upset it. Otherwise, I've got to use a minging old filter until I can find a new one. Unless someone has got a sneaky stock of 2001 filters or knows where to get them???

Cheers guys. I'm hoping it will be the water pump shaft bearings. Everything else looks pretty good really. I've got lots of ATF and fresh coolant to flush everything out once it's back together, so at least I'll be starting from a clean page. Where else could it get in the transmission?? I guess the worst case would be if there was a crack in the case somehere that could let the coolant into the transmission. I don't know the coolant circuit very well but does it even cool the transmission at all or is it just cylinder? Anyway, better not speculate until the easier stuff is ruled out. One thing that I'm pleased about is how simple the bike is to work on! Except the multitude of different size and type of bolt heads they seem to use.... I was bored today but eager to get on so I've started stripping it down more. Sorted out the exhaust (ready for re-packing and new seals), airbox, sub frame and will takle the shock and forks once the engine is back together. At this rate I might not be riding for a while. Thanks again.

No, not at all! I would be very pleased if it was "white oil"!! I know people put all sorts of things in the trans so god knows... UPDATE - Anyway, I've taken the inner clutch cover off and removed the water pump shaft etc. The bearings did have a bit of play in them and the shaft was shiny under the seal (more so than worn). The cases looked pretty good considering the age. I'm hoping it's not the cases but just the bearings. I've bought replacement parts for the whole water pump except for the gear and pin. From the looks of it, I don't think it's first time it's been done as apart from the play in the bearings it all looks pretty good in there. I'm just hoping there's not too much damage to the gearbox etc. I've got some "mineral ATF" that I could use to flush the transmission - would that be a good or bad idea?

Is that a serious suggestion? The oil was so white and consistent that i did wonder if it was meant to be! Have i jumped the gun and got upset about nothing? The oil was as I got it from the previous owner. There's definitely no holes in the case, just a finish that is flaking off. I've pretty much got to replace the seal now but otherwise everything looked fine. I doubt the flaking is a previous fix as the previous owner didn't exactly look after it. What's the cheapest acceptable fluid that i can flush the transmission with, do you think? Thanks for the help, I'm dying to get out on this thing. Once I've sorted this the fork seals are next....then repack and seal the exhaust... Then beat the sump guard back into place.... Then the mot.... Then the insurance.... Then the tax.. lol

Hi, I know this has been discussed a lot but I'm not sure my problem is the normal thing - it's a 2001 which I THINK doesn't have the problem covers. 2001 Rev 3 270. The gear oil is WHITE - I know "milky" is used to describe this but it's more like dulux paint! I don't have a photo but it was like milk or white paint. I drained and refilled, ran for a few miinutes and the oil is white again. I've seen that the water pump cover etc. can cause problems so I've drained the coolant and opened the WP cover. The coolant is full of little bits of coating/paint from the engine cases but is still a good colour: If it was the head gasket, wouldn't the coolant be contamintated with oil? The water pump cover and case look like this (peeling coating): Does anyone think that's enough damage to cause the problem? I'm going to change the WP seal anyway as I've knocked it about to see if it was ok. Can the seal be changed from the outside or does the case have to come off too? Can I just rip the old one out and push the new one back in place? Also - where on earth can you get circlip pliers that fit the Impeller Circlip! Any help appreciated - I'm pretty happy with the bike but it needs a LOT of TLC before it's a good runner. Thanks.

Hi, Another newbie here. Picked up my "new" 2001 Beta Rev 3 270 yesterday. Bought from the biggest bullsh*tter I've ever met and have found a couple unmentioned nasties already. Happy to say that I've actually enjoyed tinkering with it (so far). Will be a regular poster in the "help me" section so thanks in advance! It looks like this site is the best and perhaps the only source of really useful info so far. I ride a KTM as well and there's an abundance of info about them out there. It's hard to even find things like torque specs for the Beta! Anyway - cheers!