oceanvibe

Well I have decided to get myself a twinshock again, something to work on as a project and to take part in twinshock trials . Now I am not fussed about what bike I go for, but would prefer early to late 70's. My question is not realy what is the best bike but what make(s) have the most widely available spares or have the best value for money parts. Don't want to get into a rebuild to find that parts take months to locate or cost more that it is worth. I don't expect all part to be on the shelf but waiting time within reason. Also are there makes that you can go to several dealers rather that 'oh with that bike you cn only get them from.....' Any help would be great

Fair enough for club and center trials but if it is a national you should be up for it. I think you should ba allowed to ask as you may have had an off earlier and you or the bike might not be up to some of the more challenging sections later in the trial. If forced to just get through the start gate, stand on the bake brake and pop the clutch, instant 5 for stalling the bike !!!

Once you get the seals done remember to do a couple of oil changes to flush out it thru. If you had water in it, one change will not get all the left over water out and when you run it the oil will emulsify again making you think that the problem is no cured. It happened to myself and some other riders I know. You only need about 200ml of oil. Fire it up, on a stand and go up the gears and back again. Dump that oil and do it all again. That will clean it all out. Don't go running around on it with only 200 in though !

I think both systems are fine and will work equally as well for the right person, Scottish rider doing 15+ trials/ English rider doing 4 trials but if you have any complaints about it or any other issue, go to the SACU AGM or your clubs AGM, thats where the issues are brought up for disscusion and approved or not. Plenty people will shout about it after the fact but will not go to meetings, or they go and say bugger all until after the meeting !!!! If youwant to see where the 40 quid goes ask your club sec. for a look at the SACU accounts

Somewhere along the line some folk are making a mint out of plastics, especilly gas gas ones. As said before, 55 quid for the back mudgaurd and it is only a short bit. I replaced the mudgaurd on my techno which is twice as big as my gg pro and it was only 30 quid complete with graphics and p&p. Injection moulding is so cheap to do why such a huge difference in prices from make to make?

Thanks again for all the replies and various tips. I work with hydraulics so I know the routine. Great idea about the oily sponge between the wiper and seal. When I changed them there were no nickes etc. but will have a good look this time.

I have just noticed that one of my fork seals has given up the ghost, the thing is that they were replaced 6 weeks ago, (3 trials and about 4 hours of practice a week) fitted properly with a special seating tool. When I pulled up my dealer about it he just said that there is always a problem with GG seals and they never last. Is he B.Sing me cause he has sold me cheap seals or is this the case. Some how I think I have been fobbed off so he doesn't have to replace them. Anyone else had the same problem with seals only lasting 6 weeks.

Well after my last adjustment on the cam screw it jammed in 5th and would not move. With th eMull 2day only 2 days away I had no choice but to strip the bike and split the engine. When I took the gears out I found that the end of the selector shaft was broken off, the spring loaded cam bits and the bits were stuck in the gears. Managed to get a new one same day and put it all back together, ajausted the cam srew to set the gear selection and it is like new , shiftssweet as a nut now. All in all it took about 8 hours which is a pain as once I had the engine on the bench splitting and fixing it only took about an hour, it was stripping the bike down to nothing to get it out then putting it all back that takes the time. The job itself is a doddle. Word of warning, weeks before the bike had had trouble shifting the odd time but never thought much about it, it must have been on it's way out. If theis par had got stuck in the gears while I was running it it might have caused a lot more damage, so if your bike is not shifting right it might be better to fix it before you cause more work. Anyway I got it sorted before the 2 day, just, so was well happy. Thanks for the advise.

Congratulations to all involved in the running of this trial. Crackin event with a good mix of sections run over an 8 mile loop. Although the weather was not great I was glad it was a bit cooler as the bike suckin bogs would of been hard work in the blazing sun. Could not fault a single thing about the weekend except my score !!! Put this in your diary for next year, one not to be missed

Had another wee mess about with the cam screw today, I was adjusting it to much at a time. A bit better than befoe but not totally sorted. Can now get from 5th to 4th if I slow down to a point that the bike is labouring then change down without the clutch ! It is better than nothing as I have a 2 day trial this weekend and don't have time to open it up. WIll have another go at the cam screw tomorrow and see what gives. I think deep down I know I'll have to replace something inside but time will tell.

On my 02 250 pro I am having major problems changing down from 5th to 4th. Goes up the box nice and smooth and in and out of all other gears fine but when I try to go back down to 4th it either goes into a false nuetral or the shifter moves loads but nothing happens. I have to kill the engine and gentle rock it back and forth while moving the shifter before it will go down to 4th. Once there all is fine again until the next time I have adjusted the cam screw with no effect. I have been running it on dextron III and changing it every 2-3 weeks. I was told when I bought the bike that it had the '03 gearbox mod.' but ithat just the spring that should be red, if so mine is not red but it seems to be ok. Would a worn selector fork be at fault and is that easyto do ? Also should I stop running the bike until fixed or just don't go above 4th until then. Any help please.

Now you tell me about Lucas !!! there is one about 20 seconds across the road from the Halfords I used For under a tenner it will be fine if you change it every week before it 'goes off'

Well Lee you might as well head for the bar now cos you know I'll kick your .... on both days. As it will be your birthday I might stretch to getting a shandy for you !!!!

Not a very popular topic ? Anyway boofont you know I'm going #55 which is a good #as it will look the same when I'm upside down, well almost. I hear Lee is buying the beers as it is his birthday on the Sat.

If it is the pro you only need 400ml of oil in the box. Dextron III from Halfords, 19.99 for 5 lt not bad!

I always put the straps round the fork leg at the mudgaurd stay, this way you don't pre load the forks and put additional pressure on the seals. Also this way no matter how much the trailer bounces about there is no travel in the bike which ellimenats the chance of the straps slackening off which is poss. if they are fornd the bars or pegs. Bungee round the back wheel and the runner and that it is. Been doing this with all types of bikes right up 1100's and covering thousands of miles without a slip or wobble

I just put in new spacer plates in my '02 250 pro. the thickness must be 9.75mm any less or more will cause slip/drag. I only took 0.2mm off the overall thickness to stop it dragging. Your old friction plates will more than likely have expanded a bit over time so putting in the new ones which will be a tinny bit thinner and still using the old spacers has given you the thinner clutch hence the slip. You can get the spacers in 1.3, 1.4 & 1.5 so you can adjust as required. I also change to using Dextron which I noticed a big difference with and at less than 2 quid a fill you can afford to change it every week !

Did the same to my last bike, 97 Techno, only the bars out the water Dragged it out the burn and took the plug and filter out, drained the carb and turned it upside down and kicked it over for what seemed like hours. Put the plug back in and it fired up after about 3 kicks !!! Poured the water out my boots or was that boats and finishe off practice

Personaly I use the cheapest ones in the end of line bin !!! usualy only a few quid. The pair I have now are on there last legs but 15 months for under a fiver can't be bad.

Thanks for the help, the sponge trick seems a good way to go so wil try that along with taking the box right off and starting again. Fingers crossed it will all go well.

Not moisture as after trialat the weekend it was about 1" deep !!!

OK so I've done the front gaurd, the rear mud flap thing, sealed under the mudgaurd with roof flashing, sealed the hole in the bottom of the box and there is silicone round the lid yet it still gets wet any suggestions ?

You will get a good 97/98 techno for your kind of money, Good bullet proof bikes and still very up to the challenge of todays trials. I just sold my 97 techno after 3 trouble free years

Success stripped the clutch today and it was 0.4mm to thick so replaced the steel plates with 1.3mm, (it had 1.5mm) gave it all a damn good clean and it now works a treat. No drag at all and feels much lighter. Very easy job and cost under a fiver to fix, can't complain about that.

Which fork is the preload and which is the rebound, I find it a bit soft and want to play around with the settings but which is which. Cheers