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evo boy

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Posts posted by evo boy
 
 
  1. 6 hours ago, markparrish said:

    It's a tiny amount of oil. You fill it up until it dribbles out of one of the studs (removed) - the book will tell you which stud for the cases you have (it's very helpful - as already stated)

    OK I've just looked it must be the one covered by the rear brake lever as that's not a Alan key. Many thanks

  2. On 11/25/2020 at 4:43 PM, timdog said:

    As above, buy copy of the book, separate one for engine, it’s worth it’s weight in engine oil. Explains everything including improvements.

    Having had problems with clutch slipping on starting from cold I run chaincase dry. The Oil is only for the chain. As bike doesn’t do road work at constant higher revs I just use chain lube on primary chain, sprayed onto it via breather pipe hole. Works for me.

     

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    Thank you I'm going to ordered one for some Christmas reading 

  3. Good evening wonder if anyone can give me some advice. I have inherited a b40 off my father he took the clutch apart a few years back now.  Could anyone please tell me the way the clutch plates go back in ie friction plate, steel plate, friction plate ect? And what oil and capacity should I use in the clutch/primary chain. 

    Many thanks

  4. 23 minutes ago, feetupsbetter said:

    Good luck with bleeding the system. I’ve had various levels of success trying all sorts of tips & tricks, but Evo rears are notoriously awkward to bleed. Search on here for loads of tips but also loads of horror stories !

    I know what you mean it either goes right or can be a pain in the a***. I've always had good results with the cheap air bleeder I got off ebay seems to work well. 

    • Like 1
  5. 59 minutes ago, huski said:

    Are the wheel spacers right?Disc should sit central in the calliper,,does it centralise if you swap the spacers side to 

    Thanks for the reply. Thats what I thought it should as both my bikes disc's sit central. I'll try swoping them round and see what it does. Many thanks

    • Like 1
  6. 1 hour ago, 2stroke4stroke said:

    Sounds like it could be a sticking piston. The previous owner may have released the brake pressure to hide a binding brake or just got it wrong when trying to fix it. Remove the pads and make sure that both pistons are moving but beware of them coming out. They may need cleaned but there are plenty youtube videos on how to do this. Refit and pump up (again plenty videos on bleeding brakes) whereupon all should be centralised.

    Thanks for the reply. I have ordered a new piston/seal kit as they look pretty dirty so I'll strip clean rebuild and bleed the brake and see if I get it to work

  7. Hello all wonder if you can help. A friend has just picked up a 2016 300rr but the rear brake doesn't work It just bottoms out with no resistance, there is plenty of fluid in there. Can't see any leaks either but the only thing I noticed is the rear caliper seems to be binding but when I undo the rear wheel nut it frees off. The brake disc doesn't seem to run in the middle of the caliper it's more to the inside. I checked the rear caliper and the inner piston seem to be pressed all the way back in and other side out quite a way. Any help would be grateful.

  8. I had a 2017 250 ice hell bought it new for Vertigo UK. I had the spark plugs problem at the start but Vertigo came and sorted it super fast. I then rode it for more than 3 years without any issues and what a great bike it was. All manufacturers sell a bad bike once in a while but from my experience my Vertigo was a top class bike and if you maintain it well it'll be a great bike.

    • Like 1
  9. Just another quick question The front brake seems to be a bit stiff you pull the lever and its like the master cylinder piston is very slow to come back out and the don't have a full lever second time and the brake binds. Does that sound like a master cylinder repair kit needed?

    Many thanks

  10. 10 hours ago, totty79 said:

    If you replace the master cylinder the 2017 onwards one is a direct swap and has a better outer seal.

    It sounds like it just needs bleeding though.

    I'm going to try bleeding it first thank you for your help.

  11. 9 hours ago, thall1 said:

    Are the brake pads low on material?... 2mm of material is the lower limit - if they are ok try bleeding the brake... plenty of tips on here already as to the best way to do that... if it’s still no good then you’ll need a new master cylinder piston kit... I suspect that’ll be the problem anyway... check the Caliper pistons for signs of leaking or corrosion... If the bike is new to you then if you change the calliper pistons as well and rear pads you’ll know the complete system is new and Shouldn’t give you any problems for a while. 

    Thanks for the reply, the pads look good I'll try bleeding it today and see how I get on but I think it could be master cylinder.

  12. Hello all my friends just purchased a 2013 300 evo and the rear brake doesn't seem to be working properly. The foot brake just seems to go all the way down to the sump plate with very little effect. Has anyone had the same problem and a fix?

    Many thanks

  13. Hi all I'm after a new chain for my 250 ice hell the only place I seem to find one is Vertigo uk as mine is a 103 link. Does anyone know where else I could get one or any other Ideas

    Thanks

 
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