mike350

I did find a replacement shaft a couple of years back through Inmotion in the UK. Unfortunately, the shaft on a 199a is longer than the earlier models as I discovered when I finally tracked down the correct flywheel case which forced the change. As others have said, you will need to split the engine to change the shaft. Good luck.

Hi Mark, Nice bike! I have one just like it. It looks like a recent restoration, so I'm wondering if the Mikuni is new? I'd play with the air screw. The carbs come with correct jets but the air will still need setting up properly. Mine certainly did when I swapped it for the original Bing. The symptoms were a lot like you describe. Wind it all the way in, then back it up two turns. Run the bike and adjust until the tick over levels out. You need a longish screw driver because you need to get in past the exhaust. Then throw the points away and fit electric ignition!! Best of luck Mike

Hi, From an originality standpoint I understand that you want to stick with the Bing. I tried many new parts doing the same thing. However, from one old feller to another and assuming that you want to ride the bike, I'd say give up on the Bing and go Mikuni. It starts and runs better and is so easy to set up. You will need a new rubber collar too. I also have a 199 and an RL250! Good luck.

It looks great. I have a very nice 199A which I love and which cost a fair bit to fully restore. It's the bike I always wanted when I rode my 175 as a schoolboy, just like Bernies'! It's a bit of an obsession, frankly. Looking at yours makes me realise how much I prefer the alloy tank. Do keep it original. I wonder if I can find an alloy tank somewhere?......

I had one just like that up to age 17, it's great to see one rediscovered. Give it a wash!

I have to agree with Bondy. The 199A is my favourite too.

Sorry to say that mine looked a lot like your slide, maybe a little worse. I've replaced the slide and needle with new parts but I suspect that the carb body is worn too. It's not picking up cleanly and seems to flutter at low revs - it's hard to describe. I have a new Mikuni to fit when I have a chance and the guys at Bultaco UK say that the bike will run noticeably cleaner with the Japanese carb. I tried to avoid it because I wanted to keep the original look of the Bing, but I think in the end, the £26 spent on the new bing slide would have been better invested in the Mikuni. Good luck

Great job. A perfect front pipe is near impossible to find, so that is a really elegant solution, aside from the weight saved which is a bonus. I hope that it won't change the sound too much. If you ever feel like making another....

Hi All, I said that I'd report back once I'd ridden the bike properly. This is with the Inmotion kit, without lights. Well, first thing is I'm surprised that it still kicks back a fair bit. Not a bother, but it's obviously timed very near TDC at low revs. She's a little slow to find revs right at the bottom end - but this is down to me trying to keep an original Bing carb, rather than fitting the brand new Mikuni that I have in the box. None the less, the bike is running brilliantly, even at the top of long climbs in tight sections around trees in second where the revs dropped very low, she keeps pulling. And opened up on those climbs it has amazing power, running very clean indeed with lovely pick up. All in all, I have to say that I'm delighted with my investment. Highly recommended. Now to fit that carb....

I cut mine out, very carefully. It's not so difficult and didn't damage the paint but took a while.

Hi, All of the above is of course completely fair comment. A well set conventional ignition system is perfect, on the day. But my other bike is a Beamish Suzuki which I have owned for 34 years. It had electronic ignition as standard and consequently has always run perfectly. I'd like to think that the guys at Bultaco would have approved the upgrade, if they'd had the option. By the way, the Bultaco is the better trials bike - by a mile...

Aside from the cc - and I've never heard of one being greater than 340, I think your question is "Which 199, A or B". Mine is a 199A - the standard 325cc Sherpa. What we all really want though is a 199B with 6 gears and some other mods. If that's what you are looking at then you really want to get there quick and put some money down! Best of luck. Mike

Many thanks for the advice Bondy, I'm going to find some sleeve.

Hi Motiva, It's hard to say what the difference is without having run it properly at a trial. I can't get close to high revs in the garden space available, so I will let you know after the next outing which is 28th September. The system does have an auto advance curve. What I would say is that my points system had been set up by a real pro,(recommended by Inmotion). In fact he rebuilt my entire engine with as many new parts as I could find. It runs about as well as a 325 Sherpa is ever going to run. The rebuild included a new piston and rebore, so it's probably still running in having only done a single trial. Therefore I didn't swap to digital ignition with a great expectation of improved performance but longer term reliability and continued easy starting. Years ago I cut my teeth riding a Sherpa and I have fond memories of difficult starting, vicious kicking back and even reverse running on one occasion. I loved that bike but it always needed to go electric. I think that if you can, you should. Mike

Hi All, Just reporting progress so far having fitted the Inmotion electronic ignition system. Fitting could not be more simple, the hardest bit is routing all the wires under the tank in a neat and tidy way. The bike starts instantly and runs beautifully. The only thing that I'm not 100% about is the single wire looking exposed and vulnerable where it comes out of the case and up the front frame. I want to find a way to improve the run. Any suggestions gratefully received. Mike

It could be, judging by the swinging arm. Can you count the gears? If it has 6 that would be good news. Most will have 5. Good luck Mike

I have to agree with the previous comments. Replace the lot. I had to cut the spindle to remove the swinging arm and then carefully cut the brass bushes to remove them. I believe that's pretty common. They were replaced with nylon bushes which will sort any galvanic activity - although I like the idea of titanium...My bike won't get too much use, so I didn't pay extra for new brass bushes. All parts are easily available so I took the view that while I was there I might as well do it right. I wouldn't put it together without the head steady but fitting that was a much more fiddly job than I thought. Silly money part too! Good luck!

Thanks to all for the input. I've gone with the Inmotion version which should be a simple install and I'm looking forward to seeing what difference it makes, other than to never having to set the points again.

Hi All, There are a couple of electronic ignition systems available for the Sherpa, but which is best? Has there ever been a test or are they pretty similar? I would probably opt for a system from Bultaco UK because the guys have been brilliant for parts, help and advice during my rebuild, but what about Rex Caunt? I've seen systems from the States with lightened flywheels which I think I wouldn't want. Or do I? I've read comments here which indicate quite a change in engine characteristics, is that accurate? I don't need lighting. Lots of questions, your thoughts are appreciated. Many thanks.

Looks absolutely fantastic. Bet you can't wait for the first muddy section! Is the alloy tank original, or is the seat? When I restored mine I was told that there are seats for plastic tanks and seats for alloy tanks. It may be that you have the wrong combination. I have some parts that you can polish if you get bored now that it's finished!

My 2002 Sherco was stolen from my locked garage last week. Frame number 2A002422 the bike is in really nice condition for its age and has a pair of new blue Renthals. Please look out for it. Police tell me that a gang is operating in the area targeting all types of off road bikes, probably for export. This is not kids looking for something to thrash around the local common. They arrested someone yesterday after a neighbour reported a suspicious van and a bloke pushing a blue motorbike, but didn't find any evidence. They let the guy go when he "refused to comment" during interview. It's frustrating but I do believe that the Police are doing something locally. The garage is now locked down as tight as it can be. Thanks to all those who have posted advice on the subject. However, it's too late. I feel stupid because my trailer was visible, so I may as well have put a sign up. Be warned everyone who thinks that "it won't happen in an area like this". It will. The scumbags are looking for you.

I competed at schoolboy level on a 175 Sherpa back in the day (1976 ish) up to the age of about 17 when I was really struggling for power simply because I grew and got heavier. I moved to a Beamish 250 (which I still have). The 250 had more go but to my mind was never as good a trials bike. Year later I have acquired and restored my dream bike from the 70's - a 350 Sherpa, and I'm not disappointed. So much of it is just the same as I remember but the performance is way better. So my short answer would be, go 250 or 350 every time. But it really depends on what you weigh. Hope that helps.

Hi Bondy, I changed mine (199A) last summer and from memory it looked exactly like yours does. It was a pig of a job to cut out the brass bushes but it all went back together pretty easily once cleaned up and greased. I don't think yours has been modified. Good luck!

Hi Bondy, Many thanks for that. The internal spacer is no problem as Dave has them. It's the longer one for the left hand fork leg that I need. I can now shorten the one that I have to 23mm. Should mean that I have the front wheel in today! I should keep the split spacer for inside the fork leg if I were you. I could only get a used one. Thanks very much for looking. I know that you have taken a lot of these bikes to bits. Have you ever seen a straight chain tensioner? I have bought a new one and it has a dog leg which I believe is standard. Trouble is, it stands well out of line with the chain. Nothing simple so far. Cheers

I'm close to completing my 199A but I'm missing the front wheel spacer and it seems to be about the only part that Bultaco UK don't have. I have a similar one (right part, wrong bike) which has the correct internal and external dimensions but I need to shorten to the correct length. What length should it be? If someone could measure theirs it would be much appreciated. Thanks.